Sweet guys what is the part # for the harness Mine is a original & I ordered the truck in 1995. friskyjake

 

This is the part # I believe, F6TZ9A451F. Look it up on riff raffs website, looks like they have that one in stock. Needs your vin # to verify

 

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/main-...ssembly-94-96/

F6TZ9A451F is the one that I used ^. There are 3 different harnesses though, so make sure you choose wisely. Check under "Also Viewed" and you'll find the other 2.

 

Got under the truck tonight to check things out, and noticed my PS Pump pulley is rubbing the CAC tube... if its not one thing, its another!

 

Nothing a little love tap with a hammer won't fix!

 

Just looked through your build thread Lt..Dan1. Holy smokes what a machine! Awesome work

Apologies if I missed it above, but what size lug studs did you use on your 10.5? Also, since it seems like you're set on keeping your wheels, did/will you have to machine the pilot portion of the hub for the wheel opening?

I'm just starting the process on a 10.5 swap myself and it seems I need to do that to fit the factory wheels, though I haven't had a chance to start making serious measurements.

Thanks! Looking forward to your progress

 

Thanks for the kind words!
I used the stock rear studs for a 10.25, I bought new ones on RockAuto.
I think The hub on a 10.5 is actually smaller than a 10.25, so you do not need to machine the wheels to fit, so long as they fit already.

 

Whoopsadaisy on the pulley. Put a boot in that guy's butt who built it like that.

 

I believe it's a 10.5 out of an E350. Disc brakes and 8 x 6.5 lugs.

 

I was under the impression that the vans were built with Dana 60 rears.

The machining I was referring to was discussed in this thread, where I first learned about the swap. Page 11 or 12 I think.

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...s-8-6-5-a.html

 

hmm, that thread is pretty obvious that you need to machine the hub. Very odd, but I'm not using stock wheels, and unfortunately don't know what the hub bore is on the wheels either lol. Sorry im little help.

 

Good to hear you didn’t have issues with that. I’ll get some measurements when I tear into mine.

 

Fixed the intercooler pipe today, pulled it out, sanded it down, TIG welded the gash, and then put a small dent in it as well. Then reinstalled and repositioned. Now it sits an easy 1" away from the pulley. Hope thats the last time I have to mess with that...




Me and a buddy also got bored, and he used to work at a body shop, so we spent some time aligning the fenders/doors and such, so that all the body lines were lined up nicely, and adjusted the doors to open and close easy too. Then we got a little more carried away and painted the holes on top of the roof left from the cab light removal. The previous owner pulled the lights, but I TIG welded the holes closed and never painted them, so they have just been getting a little surface rust over the last 6 years. We also sprayed the back of the cab where it got hit several years ago. We just hit it with a DA sander and sprayed the entire back edge of the cab. Surprisingly, the "Factory Match, Universal Black" is pretty damn close to my paint! The dent wasn't fixed, but it sure doesn't grab your eye from a bunch of missing/flaking paint any more.





When I pull the bed off to take to powdercoat, the same friend is going to come over and we're going to try and slide hammer the back of the cab straight, throw a little filler on there, and paint the whole back of the cab and the roof, I hope it comes out nice.

 

Very nice work you have done. Truck has came a long ways.

 

Dang that sucks that the PO took off the cab lights. It's not the first time I have heard of it happening. These trucks look great with those old school lights. Paint turned out great!