In reference to this thread - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-coupler.html

I'm replacing my column today and my coupler boot is torn, I'm not sure what kind of shape the coupler is in.
I have play in the steering but I think it was more the column than anything else.
I don't see anything for a replacement boot, did they do away with it and just left the coupler exposed when replaced with a new one?
Looks like they switched from a coupler to a rag joint with no boot.
Did a search on ebay for the part# numberdummy posted in that thread and this is what came up.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STEERIN...BSg-DC&vxp=mtr
but it says it doesn't fit on my 86 even though the description lists the part number interchange. Not sure if I should believe the doesn't fit part.

 

And another question..
What is the best way to reconnect the column to the coupler?
Right now I'm thinking get the column all mounted up and try and pull the lower assembly into the upper.
Trying to line them up and push the upper into the lower doesn't seem to be working too well, it just pushed the lower assembly down.
Plus because it's a junkyard column they don't quite line up due to the wheel being locked (no key)
So I have to replace the switch to unlock the column to get the right dangle.

 

EDITED:
When chilton says disconnect the ignition switch, they mean remove it from the column, this way the rod is released. not just disconnect the plug.
I didn't pin anything, they tell you to pin it in the lock position but how? with what and where? Do you leave the rod in it?

How do you get the T-Bolts to stay put so you can put the nuts back on when you go to reassemble it?
What stops them from getting pushed back in when putting pressure on it to tighten the nut down?

Addition: So the flange is loose can't get the bearing to move off the shaft though. Still don't see how the ignition cylinder can be removed with the flange off.
Step 9 says pull entire assembly over end of the column shaft, I guess that means pull the entire shaft out? To gain access to the rear of the flange?
I'll try that in the am if no comments are made, if I can't make heads or tails out of it I'll have to try drilling it and not ruin my new column.

 

WHOA!!! ebay seller hasn't a clue, pictured part is not E8TZ-3B676-A

Pictured part is basic part number 3A525 but which one, I haven't a clue.

E8TZ-3B676-A (replaced E2TZ-3B676-B) is the Lower Steering Shaft & Coupler Assy that from production date 2/81 included the 3A525 steering coupler.

See 3B676 & 3A525 in pic:

 

You have to be careful with the terminology you use on this forum. The term "coupler" usually refers to what everybody calls the rag joint, at the bottom of the steering shaft.
You're referring to the steering shaft upper joint, which is part of the steering shaft.

I don't believe that boot was ever available as a separate part in the 80's, and it is certainly not available today. If the upper joint boot is torn, you really only have a few options.

Option # 1. Dennis Carpenter sells a new steering shaft p/n E0TZ-3B676-A indicated as fitting 1980-1981 only. It does not include the lower "coupler" aka Rag Joint. I assume you can just buy a new coupler, and use this shaft on the 1982-1986 as well, but somebody else will have to confirm.

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/en/...ed-lower-shaft

Option # 2 would be to buy a new aftermarket steering shaft from Borgeson. They offer them in a rigid configuration (without a rag joint/coupler), or with a damper of some kind.

Borgeson Universal Company :: Ford Truck 1970-04

Option # 3 is to replace your 1982-1986 steering shaft with one from a 1987-1991 F series truck (Used, junkyard, Ebay, etc). They did away with the rubber boot on that shaft and just had a dry/open upper joint, and a molded rubber "coupler" aka Rag Joint.

I don't believe anybody sells a proper replacement for the 1982-1986 steering shaft.

 

Thanks for clarifying the terminology and the information on that part.
For anyone thinking of following the manual on replacing a ignition cylinder, DON'T! I should have just drilled the ignition cylinder and took my chances.
I thought I'd do the right thing but what a pita this is. I hope to put it back together and going to drill it like I should have.
If anyone does try to do the manual way make sure you order the snap ring because it's a one time use and deforms when you remove it.
The manual recommends replacing select parts but didn't mention that one. (well they say upper bearing retainer)
The diagram calls it's a snap ring, the parts lists calls it a bearing retainer. It's a snap ring...
smh way flustered.. and I haven't even tried to get the T-Bolts back in. The ignition switch didn't go back in the original place.
Oh how much fun this isn't ..

 

numberdummy if you see this, what is the difference between

DOAZ-3C610-A

DOAZ-3C610-B

I'm getting conflicting fitment issues. I think B is the correct one but some sites list A will work as well.

 

There are two different types of these retainers for two different purposes.

D0AZ-3C610-A is the cylinder w/key retainer.

D0AZ-3C610-B is the upper steering column bearing retainer.

Pic: Here's a typical example:

D0AZ-3C610-A located between the cylinder and key (11582) and bearing (3E700) in the upper flange (3511).

D0AZ-3C610-B located between T/S switch (13341) and upper steering column bearing (3517).

 

thank you, that makes a lot more sense. I didn't see the cylinder retainer only the upper bearing.
The ford sites I visited didn't really clarify either. They just listed it as a bearing retainer.