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Hello everyone. I've lurked on this web site for years and never posted, I have however benefited from all the knowledge shared here. I'm not new to Ford trucks and have owned many over the years. So please pardon my lack of participation and proper intro but I need help. I promise I'll do better going forward. Here's my situation. Last summer I purchased a 2002 Ex. with 215000 miles on the clock. I'm finally getting to making upgrades to it's tired suspension. I've decided to go with Pro comp 22210 F 22415 R setup. I've already installed the fronts and the hub to arc measure is 27". I've already made test runs with new springs on front I'm delighted with the results. If you're wondering how it sits, yep the front is about 3" higher than the rear. The measurement on the rear is 24". I have airlifts so I was able level it for my test drives. So here's my question. How do I keep the airlifts and remove the rear blocks. The airbags rest the bump stop built into the blocks. What to do? Anybody done this already? BTW my Ex is a gasser 6.8 with a Reman Motorcraft Long Block. I promise I'll post pictures when the job is complete.
dont forget the 2* shim to add to the spring pack when you remove the block, this will correct the pinion angle do you do not get driveline vibrations.
I like to use a 2* shim on the front spring also to increase the castor to 5.5* which makes the Ex track straight
dont forget the 2* shim to add to the spring pack when you remove the block, this will correct the pinion angle do you do not get driveline vibrations.
I like to use a 2* shim on the front spring also to increase the castor to 5.5* which makes the Ex track straigh.
That's a negative caster number right? Just changing the front springs improved the return to center action.
in the front you use the shim to roll the pinion down 2* for positive caster and in the rear roll the pinion down 2* for a non CV type rear driveshaft to keep the output shaft and the pinion shaft parallel
your return to center improved because your old sagged springs resulted in diminished caster and the new springs restored it. i use the shim in front because i like more caster, if you are happy with it as is then no need
once you get both springs on get an alignment done snd have toe in set to +.03* to +.06
i like a minimim of 4* caster but 5.5* is even better especially towing.... tracks straight and true even in a cross wind ,
in the front you use the shim to roll down the pinion 2* and in the rear roll the pinion up 2* for a non CV type rear driveshaft.
your return to center improved because your old sagged springs resulted in diminished caster and the new springs restored it. i use the shim in front because i like more caster, if you are happy with it as is then no need
once you get both springs on get an alignment done snd have toe in set to +.03* to +.06
i like a minimim of 4* caster but 5.5* is even better especially towing.... tracks straight and true even in a cross wind ,
Ok just to make sure I understand. I always thought positive caster means the wheels will be tilted forward off their center line from the drivers view. BTW I do have the double cardan U-joints on the rear.
dont forget the 2* shim to add to the spring pack when you remove the block, this will correct the pinion angle do you do not get driveline vibrations.
I like to use a 2* shim on the front spring also to increase the castor to 5.5* which makes the Ex track straight
Definitely. Now that I have air bag hardware and u bolts removed you see clearly the original blocks are canted. I will post pictures. Shims ordered.
Thanks so much.
for anybody following along here are the basic parts I use to do this 4" lift on the Excursion not counting the Air bag, top plate tang or Dystar air bag craddle
I suppose I should add those links to my list.
speaking of airbags..... make sure with your new rear springs that the bag is long enough when the suspension is at full droop like when the vehicle is on a lift or it will rip the bags.
if you do not have long travel bags you can use the daystar craddle for the bottom and save the cost of long travel bags.
its a neat product and reasonable price compared to long travel bags
Waiting for springs and shocks to arrive These are the stock springs. Look closely and you can see the slite angle on the bottom of the block. 22210 springs on the front with new U bolts Stock track bar and mount. Tie rod and track bar are still paralelle. No "bump steer". Look at space between the bump stop and spring The pitman arm seems to be comfortable. Here you can see the angle in the block. The old set up
Pro Comp install
