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not attaching them is fine but you MUST still capture the bottom of the bag so
how do you paln on capturing the bottom end and keeping it from squirting out to the side under load without a cradle ?
and I assume you do not plan on a craddle like the daystar since it requires being bolted on.
I was expecting that question. Think about it. The bags with 10psi want to expand down. The PMF plates provide a broad serface for the bags to rest on. If they were hung over a narrow surface or an axle I would agree they would need something to guide them down. I dove with the under inflated bags over some speed bumps, and I could hear the bags coming back to rest on the tangs with my window down. With the bags inflated to just 10psi I heard nothing. If I could find my race camera setup I could film it. Them bags can't go anywhere but down.
I'm assuming that everyone knows that they should always be using a load distributing type hitch when towing anything more than jet ski's. Relying solely on air bags to level the rig can get you into serious trouble.
I'm assuming that everyone knows that they should always be using a load distributing type hitch when towing anything more than jet ski's. Relying solely on air bags to level the rig can get you into serious trouble.
Well, I don't know if jetskis are the only thing you'd be able to haul without weight distribution. A properly loaded 16' flatbed will track and tow just fine behind these rigs. I do get your point though. Safety first and make sure you're loaded properly and use the proper setup regardless of what you're hauling.
riding around on the highway unloaded at a few psi, you are right on, likely never happen.
with the Ex at GVWR and cycling the suspension to its full droop or jounce on a bumpy road or pothole I can almost guarantee you squirt a bag out.
those bags can and will follow the path of least resistance.
I'm assuming that everyone knows that they should always be using a load distributing type hitch when towing anything more than jet ski's. Relying solely on air bags to level the rig can get you into serious trouble.
It's been my experience that towing even relatively lite loads without equalization is less than optimum. For example, I used to move my race trailer around empty without my bars. No problem for an F350 dually, however the truck just didn't feel as stable as with the bars. In a panic stop or maneuver I knew I wouldn't all six wheels working to the max for me. Even though tongue weight was probably close to your example, there are other dynamics at work. I would never try that with my Ex. I admit I'm not using a slide rule just seat of the pants.
fair enough, not that using a load bar in a WD hitch is a bad idea and they are a good tool but they are not the end all solution to getting a good weight balance, they are simply one tool to utilize,
at the end of the day your seat of the pants gauge of stability is what most people go by.
however with some knowledge of the dynamics of weight and balance and a bit of time sorting things out similar if not better results can be had. there is not a one size all fits all reciepe that dictates a load bar must be used. I suspect with some trial and error you will find your bags can and will get your weight and balance correct without load bars in your WD hitch
Example.
with my 9000 pound trailer, no load bars, no air bags, no front or rear sway bar it is not only stable but braking, turning and towing is spot on,
even in a cross wind on crappy roads next to construction K rails it is a confidence inspiring 2 fingers on the wheel doing 70mph afair,
most unloaded excursions cant even say that as they can be white knuckle nightmares just getting on a highway.
fwiw, I have load bars and the hitch to use them but they just are not needed. also, I turn my headlights down before leaving on roadtrips towing since I dont have bags.
riding around on the highway unloaded at a few psi, you are right on, likely never happen.
with the Ex at GVWR and cycling the suspension to its full droop or jounce on a bumpy road or pothole I can almost guarantee you squirt a bag out.
those bags can and will follow the path of least resistance.
lets put a "weight Rating". on these springs to match the factory designed ride height of .34". *** low with a 1100 tounge weight with a 11,000 pound trailer
.
.34 x 760 = 258 pounds on the tounge would sag the rear .34 inches matching the factory tow stance.
we know the typical towing setup is to use between 10 and 15% of the trailers total weight as the tounge weight and ford specified 1100 pounds with a 11,000 pound trailer so they obviously used the 10% figure so we shall do the same.
258 pounds is 10% of 2580 therefore if we mimic the factory rating the procomps tow rating without Airags would be….
2580 trailer weight
258 tounge weigh
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
what do you mean by disconcerting ? not sure I am understanding your concern
Seems pretty low for tongue weight, unless I'm not reading your math correctly. I took the above numbers to mean that essentially the 22415 ProComp spring has 23% of the "weight rating" of the factory leaf springs. Seems super low to me. Is my thinking correct?
Seems pretty low for tongue weight, unless I'm not reading your math correctly. I took the above numbers to mean that essentially the 22415 ProComp spring has 23% of the "weight rating" of the factory leaf springs. Seems super low to me. Is my thinking correct?
i think you are not understanding what my rating applies to.
the tounge weight rating I gave is based on your Ex sitting level when it is unloaded and then loaded the *** end sagging .34 of an inch which would be the stance THE FACTORY selected for its tounge weight limit, they however started with the *** 1 inch higher then the front.
the whole purpose of that is based on aiming your headlights.
if you wanted to compare the TOTAL load the rear spring could take you would need to decide how far you want to flex the spring, want to flatten it ? invert it an inch ?
lets give it a rateing to flat.
10" arch x 380 lbs per inch = 3800
that would comapre to tghe stock spring
5" arch 410 lbs inch = 2500
feel better now ?
you are choosing to start with a flat or level ride height so your tounge weight is going to suffer accordingly but the total spring has more then enough total capacity for towing any load you dare put behind your puny brakes and frail trasmission.
if you want to sag your rear end 3". and re-aim your headlights then you can have a rating of …..
tounge weigh = 2280 pounds
rating are that arbiturary which is why i have to laugh at just about every suspension thread that talks about this code or that and the "weight rateing". it is not complely meaninless but unless you understand the rating it is a retarded way to select a spring
i think you are not understanding what my rating applies to.
the tounge weight rating I gave is based on your Ex sitting level when it is unloaded and then loaded the *** end sagging .34 of an inch which would be the stance THE FACTORY selected for its tounge weight limit, they however started with the *** 1 inch higher then the front.
the whole purpose of that is based on aiming your headlights.
if you wanted to compare the TOTAL load the rear spring could take you would need to decide how far you want to flex the spring, want to flatten it ? invert it an inch ?
lets give it a rateing to flat.
10" arch x 380 lbs per inch = 3800
that would comapre to tghe stock spring
5" arch 410 lbs inch = 2500
feel better now ?
you are choosing to start with a flat or level ride height so your tounge weight is going to suffer accordingly but the total spring has more then enough total capacity for towing any load you dare put behind your puny brakes and frail trasmission.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
if you want to sag your rear end 3". and re-aim your headlights then you can have a rating of …..
tounge weigh = 2280 pounds
rating are that arbiturary which is why i have to laugh at just about every suspension thread that talks about this code or that and the "weight rateing". it is not complely meaninless but unless you understand the rating it is a retarded way to select a spring
Man, you’re a suspension encyclopedia and you care about my feelings!
On a serious note, thanks for clearing that up for me...makes a heck of a lot more sense!
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