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Well I just measured it, and if I'm doing right it looks those blocks would tilt the pinion up about 3* Maybe I won't need the shim at all. I'm thinking the spring perch has the angle built in, and the blocks mimic it. What say you?
no, sterling fixed the perch angle and ford used various degree blocks depending on wheelbase.
with a non CV driveshaft. the goal is to be within 1/2* of parallel and the further out you get the worss the vibes.
i do not know about the CV driveshaft but i sense you are about to find out. lol
Well I do remember eyeballing it before I tore it apart and at full droop the angle looked like it was 0. I'll just have to wait and see. There's a 4wheel Parts warehouse not far away and they have what I may need in stock.
what was at 0* at full droop ? i am not aware of any angles that need to be 0* at full droop.
important things at full droop would be driveline length, shock length, brake line length, air bag length. basically make sure the springs and shackle are what is limiting droop and not anything else
no, sterling fixed the perch angle and ford used various degree blocks depending on wheelbase.
with a non CV driveshaft. the goal is to be within 1/2* of parallel and the further out you get the worss the vibes.
i do not know about the CV driveshaft but i sense you are about to find out. lol
I just did a very unscientific test. I used my floor jack to make the pinion and driveshaft angle 0(paralleled) which is about 4* on the axle housing. With pinion and shaft parallel the perch's are dead 0*. So the angle at which the springs rest on the perch will be the issue. From the picture you can see the stock pile up has angle and the blocks compensate for it.
what was at 0* at full droop ? i am not aware of any angles that need to be 0* at full droop.
important things at full droop would be driveline length, shock length, brake line length, air bag length. basically make sure the springs and shackle are what is limiting droop and not anything else
With the truck jacked up and the rear end hanging down the pinion and shaft seemed to stay parallel. It was just an eyeball measure. Not really 0* my bad.
technicall you are trying for 0* at cruise to compansate gor acle wrap but as a DIY that is difficult so 0* at curb ride height will do.
I'm in over my head at this point. I just hope I can bolt the right stuff together to make it work. My Ex has a very smooth vibration free ride on the freeway, I hope I can keep it that way. I'm sure having that double cardan at the transfer case will help.
when you get it all together and on the ground under its own weight post a pic of the driveline from the side, we can eyeball the alignment and ho fron there.... no biggie
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