Rebuild time

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Apr 20, 2019 | 07:36 AM

#91

Eaglescout94

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 1,041

Likes: 72

From: Springfield

Does it feed in from the rear of the engine going forward when fully assembled? I didn’t follow directions when i removed it and it still had the oil filter installed, dumb idea, it didn’t want to come out together.

Apr 20, 2019 | 08:10 AM

#92

Sous

FTE Leadership Emeritus

Joined: May 2014

Posts: 27,346

Likes: 5,941

From: Lake Hartwell, GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eaglescout94

Yes, fed from the rear of the engine toward the front fully assembled.

Apr 20, 2019 | 11:26 AM

#93

Walleye Hunter

Hotshot

Joined: Mar 2014

Posts: 10,750

Likes: 1,065

From: Douglassville, PA

I hear these stories about how hard they are to get together...how hard are they to get apart?

Apr 20, 2019 | 11:32 AM

#94

Sous

FTE Leadership Emeritus

Joined: May 2014

Posts: 27,346

Likes: 5,941

From: Lake Hartwell, GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter

I hear these stories about how hard they are to get together...how hard are they to get apart?

The only reason they are tricky to get together is because the 4 o-rings are fresh plyable instead of being compressed and brittle.

Taking them apart is usually very easy.

That said, constant pressure from s strap with a bit of blunt force from a rubber mallet and the caps pop on. Make sure the o-rings are lubricated though with your favorite flavor. I use the Permatex engine assembly lube because it us sticky enough to hold gaskets or o-rings in place, but slippery enough to make installation easy.

Apr 20, 2019 | 11:56 AM

#95

Eaglescout94

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 1,041

Likes: 72

From: Springfield

I’m hoping it goes together with the correct o rings as easy as it went together with the wrong. Didn’t take all that much force to pop it together, using a ratchet strap and a few blunt hits with a mallet should make it super easy

Apr 30, 2019 | 08:49 PM

#96

Eaglescout94

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 1,041

Likes: 72

From: Springfield

This wont be a bit by bit list but ill try to make it easy to understand.
$1,160 - random seals, exhaust bolts, billet plenums, bearings, oil cooler and pump, o-rings
$1,870 - complete engine gasket kit, IH water pump, CNC fab 4 line fuel kit, chromoly push rods, ARP head studs, CNC fab HPOP lines
$444 - new oil pan, pan gasket, quarter turn drain valve, upgraded valve springs
$1,118- reman heads
$200 - engine paints, oil, oil filter, coolant
$1,895 205/80 injectors
This should be everything that it took to get it together so long as I don’t screw up.... unfortunately i broke the rear oil cooler cap/ filter mount so that and new o-rings and gaskets cost another $364. So we have a total of around $7,050. I didnt need any machine work done and the pistons and rings were not tampered with. There’s probably some parts in forgetting so throw in another $250 and everything should be covered..

May 1, 2019 | 07:58 AM

#97

Walleye Hunter

Hotshot

Joined: Mar 2014

Posts: 10,750

Likes: 1,065

From: Douglassville, PA

Interesting price for that oil pan. You didn't replace the rings?

May 1, 2019 | 09:27 AM

#98

Eaglescout94

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 1,041

Likes: 72

From: Springfield

I got the moroso pan and gasket. Nope, I wasn’t burning oil before and I didn’t see anything wrong looking at them. My engine friend said they’d be good to go. So far so good, the power is nice but I couldn’t try it out as much as I would have liked since it was wet out
Side note that I somehow forgot about, it sure would be nice if the aftermarket guys made sure their products played well together without modification, I had to do some material removal on the billet intake plenums to get the fitting to thread in well for the CNC fab 4 line kit. Without doing so the fitting might have had 2 threads holding it in and I wasn’t comfortable with that little engagement.