Rebuild time
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 578
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay Wi
What I have found,
I have Van norman machine centers. With the teardown and rebuilds I have done. The 7.3 rarely needs short block work. Unless a failure to the piston assy(rings cracks skirts ect) The bore wear is minimal and honestly impressive. To put numbers you can relate to here. I would say 250k miles equate to 100k of gas engine wear to the heads. The engine bore is about 300K equal to 90k to that of a gasser. Granted OCI, area and use have inputs as well. I would do a leak down test and or compression test. Let those numbers decide weather you need a "rebuild" Check your coolant system with a pressure check (will it hold pressure overnight)? If your system is not leaking it should hold 10 psi np. If not your going to have coolant coming out someplace telling you what side ect. Power is going to come from boost/tune/injectors not internals(CID) of the engine on a diesel. Look at the power made from a new 6.7 it wasnt from making the engine bigger
I have Van norman machine centers. With the teardown and rebuilds I have done. The 7.3 rarely needs short block work. Unless a failure to the piston assy(rings cracks skirts ect) The bore wear is minimal and honestly impressive. To put numbers you can relate to here. I would say 250k miles equate to 100k of gas engine wear to the heads. The engine bore is about 300K equal to 90k to that of a gasser. Granted OCI, area and use have inputs as well. I would do a leak down test and or compression test. Let those numbers decide weather you need a "rebuild" Check your coolant system with a pressure check (will it hold pressure overnight)? If your system is not leaking it should hold 10 psi np. If not your going to have coolant coming out someplace telling you what side ect. Power is going to come from boost/tune/injectors not internals(CID) of the engine on a diesel. Look at the power made from a new 6.7 it wasnt from making the engine bigger
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I’m gonna pull the heads this weekend hopefully and see how the cylinders look. I had good power and it never smoked from burning anything other than diesel aside from cold starts. I tried to pressurize the cooling system but I couldn’t get more than 4 psi. A leaking injector cup that I could see, a leak somewhere in the drivers side head that caused coolant to come out the glow plug hole and my water pump gasket has a leak. The heads will be replaced with remans and new bearing spun in the lower end at minimum as well as new seals everywhere. I’ll be sticking in the 205/80 injectors I bought and already have a KC38r turbo on it running a hydra tuner. Talking with my friend that’s gonna help depending on how the cylinders look it might get honed at minimum while it’s apart. Then getting wrist pin bushings replaced as well
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Push rods with the new heavier springs would be a good idea. The engine kit comes with pistons so you should wait till you get it a part to order it. That way you would know how much over you want. Do the oil pump and water pump for sure. After market HPOP would be good to. Lot of miles on the old one. Good luck and let us know what it all costs!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Waiting was the plan. It would suck to order the kit and need bored out some. Luckily the kit comes with lpop and I’ve got an IH water pump on my parts list, cast iron with an integrated filter base. I’m hoping to squeeze by on the stock HPOP for now, it held pressure well on the interstate when I tested it but if I can pull the funds together it’ll probably be replaced later this summer. Is there a certain push rod you’d recommend? I’ve seen 2 different sizes I think and for some reason a couple different models of one or both sizes. There will definitely be a parts list when I’m done posted with costs and where from. After the engine is done I’ll almost have a new truck with a wore out body
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Should be stock length. Who you buying the springs from? If it's Riffraff, he has push rods to. They just need to be a little stronger is all. Some go with stock, but some have problems to. If you pull the lifters and are going to use the same ones, make sure they go back in the same hole. I would buy new there to. Bigger H-pop will give you a little better power and some say even mpg. I got both, but mine was an early 99 truck.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Planning on buying springs from Riff Raff, ill have to check his push tubes but elsewhere they had 3/8 and 7/16 I think. Will were on springs, should I order the shims with it or are those mainly if I’m building for big power? Might as well buy the new lifters I guess. I’ll have to see how much I’m gonna spend, see if I can budget a new HPOP now or if I need to wait till summertime.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Planning on buying springs from Riff Raff, ill have to check his push tubes but elsewhere they had 3/8 and 7/16 I think. Will were on springs, should I order the shims with it or are those mainly if I’m building for big power? Might as well buy the new lifters I guess. I’ll have to see how much I’m gonna spend, see if I can budget a new HPOP now or if I need to wait till summertime.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Well I managed to find a site that explains how to set the springs up, shims and all. All I can say is my head hurts now. I need to re-read it later and have my friend help that’s build motors for years.
Here is the link for the page I found describing how to set up the springs: http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5813
Here is the link for the page I found describing how to set up the springs: http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5813
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Yes, you can measure each spring and see if it meets the right pressure at that height. But most here have found to use the .30 shim and call it good. I tend to believe that is good in this case. We don't turn a bunch of rpm's, and the springs are to keep the valve's closed when they are suppose to be. And not float if using an exhaust brake. Never heard of any problems doing it that way.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
That’s better news to hear, i don’t plan on running it hard, I just want a dead nuts reliable engine that performs well. Does anyone have any recommendations on what all I should be looking to add to my parts list? The broad overview currently is CNC fab 4 line fuel kit, CNC HPOP lines that use standard sourced fittings, the oil crossover, RiffRaff billet plenums, IH water pump with filter base, whatever’s listed in the rebuild kit, the injectors I bought, heavier valve springs and new push tubes. I know a new HPOP was recommended, for now I’ll run the one I have till the wallet recoups a little. I’ll need to order new seals/ gaskets for the up pipes since they’re new but will be pulled apart for the rebuild. Anything I’m missing or should be aware of? I’m gonna install a new oil pan since mine has seen better days and it’ll be easily accessible.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Granted ill see what you’re talking about when i tear into the motor but could you elaborate wha the pancake springs valves are? That will save me atleast $50 or so which is getting used for new valve cover gaskets since i broke the tab. I atleast got the motor removed tonight, tomorrow its going on the stand and heads are coming off.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
I hope this helps you ... good luck with your project.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Thanks timmy, the hoses are getting replaced with new ones anyways so I won’t have to worry about them that much then.
sunuvabug- thanks. I saw that book and figured it would be a decent reference manual and now that I’ve got feedback from someone with it it’ll be on my amazon order tonight
sunuvabug- thanks. I saw that book and figured it would be a decent reference manual and now that I’ve got feedback from someone with it it’ll be on my amazon order tonight