Rebuild time
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Ok, I won’t be able to look for bubbles since I drained the coolant down. It wasn’t a slightly leak it was gurgling up pretty well. Ill be spraying soap water it looks like. I know the truck has a slight water leak at the water pump mount, somewhat recent even though the pump is a year old or so but there was no leak at the oil cooler. My oil temps were getting kinda high, 215 was easily possible empty on the interstate during the summer, heck 180 was possible in mixed driving this winter if I drove it long enough
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
215 on the interstate in the summer isn't bad, your thermostatic is 195 so that is normal. You mitt need some help then, so you can see the pressure in the cups. Or fix first what you know is leaking. Just hate to see you tear it apart if you don't need to.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I know I need to tear it apart regardless, so I’ll be doing a rebuild most likely. There was no coolant in the injector bore until the glow plug hole was filled and kept going. I could see a current from some debris in the injector opening once it was full of coolant. I don’t remember my oil temp ever getting that high the first couple years I had the truck so I figured the oil cooler caught some crud and wasn’t cooling as well as it should anymore. Should my oil temp be able to reach 190 when the outside air temp is less than 30? It wasn’t on long drives but running around town running errands and then 8 miles or so on the interstate to get home
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
Yeah, remember, your oil cooler is an oil cooler and it uses engine coolant to cool it so it should be higher than your coolant temp. Engine oil is good to 250 all day long. On your cups, after pressurizing your cooling system spray them with silicone spray, and look for bubbles.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Ok, good to know on all accounts. I will pressurize tomorrow when I get off work and see if I can see anything. I still need to pull the passenger side injectors and glow plugs out or should I wait till I check th driver’s side to see if I can see what’s buggered?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
By recommendation of a friend, is there a book by chance to go off of when reassembling the engine? Or is everything pretty straight forward and I just need to look up torque specs for everything?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Are the lifters reusable as well as the push tubes? When I looked at heavier valve springs some kits come with spacer and clay has them separate, would they normally be needed or only if I plan on really going for the higher horsepower?
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I guess the rebuild decision is a blessing in disguise. I got the remaining injectors and glow plugs pulled and tried to pressure test the engine, either the pump i used has developed a bad leak or my motor has a lot of leaks. I have one injector cup I could see bubbling from a crack or hole, what sounds like a cracked head leaking into the glow plug hole that I initially saw and enough leaks elsewhere I could only pump in 4 psi, didnt matter how fast or much I pumped, 4 psi is all it would try to hold in the beginning. Hoping to get the motor pulled on a stand this weekend and start ordering parts next week. RiffRaff intake plenums, CNC 4 line fuel system, HPOP lines and oil cross over, Comp Cam 910-16 Valve springs. Anything i should look into, are the push tubes re-useable so long as they’re not broken and are the lifters good to use or would i be better ponying up for some new ones?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
I am not sure about the lifters, my thought is if they are not crazy expensive to go for it. And I was always told when I was looking at rebuilding mine that the pushrods on the 7.3 are rarely an issue.
Mare you rebuilding for stock power or are you gonna try to boost up the numbers?
Mare you rebuilding for stock power or are you gonna try to boost up the numbers?
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Good to know about the push tubes, I couldn’t find anything using google unless I wasn’t using the correct words. Fair enough for the lifters, they’re something like $15 each I seen to remember so I guess that would be cheap insurance. It’s mainly gonna be around stock power numbers but I will step on it from time to time just for fun. It’s mainly a daily driver so I don’t need huge power but if I get the itch to use it I’d like it to be there. I’m just wanting a reliable healthy running truck
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Good to know about the push tubes, I couldn’t find anything using google unless I wasn’t using the correct words. Fair enough for the lifters, they’re something like $15 each I seen to remember so I guess that would be cheap insurance. It’s mainly gonna be around stock power numbers but I will step on it from time to time just for fun. It’s mainly a daily driver so I don’t need huge power but if I get the itch to use it I’d like it to be there. I’m just wanting a reliable healthy running truck
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I’ll definitely report back when it’s all done and back in the truck but my rough estimate right now for the parts I want/ need puts me around $4200 for parts, 1225 is the rebuild kit and about another 1000 is for reman heads. It’s gonna get the Morosa oil pan as well, mines not looking the best and I figure no time like the present since the motor will be out of the truck already. Everything’s gonna get degreased and painted so it looks good before it goes back together.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
I’ll definitely report back when it’s all done and back in the truck but my rough estimate right now for the parts I want/ need puts me around $4200 for parts, 1225 is the rebuild kit and about another 1000 is for reman heads. It’s gonna get the Morosa oil pan as well, mines not looking the best and I figure no time like the present since the motor will be out of the truck already. Everything’s gonna get degreased and painted so it looks good before it goes back together.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I haven’t gotten that far yet. I’m planning on using a tuck shop that my employer uses for their machine work. It’s an International truck dealer so I’d imagine they have enough to make it all work since they work on the big engines. I’m gonna try to have the engine pulled it and somewhat apart this weekend so I can see what’s wore out. At minimum I’ll have new wrist pin bushings sized and installed but I figure with 350k on the clock it’s gonna need some machine work done