Ok, I haven’t gotten that far into the tear down yet so I’ll definitely pay attention when I’m there. I know many folks seem to recommend the gasola? Thread sealant. Is there a reason why other thread sealers wouldn’t work? And I’m happy to say that all 8 cylinders still have a cross hatch pattern, even at 350k. Having my heads gone through by a machine shop was recommended for cost saving earlier, would the average shop be able to check for leaks in the glowplug holes and be able to fix it if something were wrong? I know it needs cups so if the machine shop can handle any cracks in the glowplug holes Ill have them do that, cups and stronger springs.

What about elsewhere?

Oh ok, i was planning on using the same stuff we use at work on all the big diesels. Hasn’t leaked yet.

The one thing I’m curious about, 3 of the cylinders on the drivers side had shiny spots on the pistons and the passenger side had some too but not as much. Isn’t shiny piston surfaces caused by a coolant leak or water being missed into the cylinder and cleaning off the soot from the piston?

Looks like it’s time to start ordering the big part ps here in the next couple days. I’m definitely considering following Bonanza’s advice to just install a .30 shim with the new 910 valve springs and call it good with new push tubes. Part of me wants to not bother with new springs and stronger tubes but I’ll want to step on the skinny pedal on occasion with my new found power. After looking at all 8 pistons and taking with my engine friend, I might have had 2 injectors that were kinda spraying ok, the other 6 were near dribbling. Just so I have a good list to reference when ordering my parts, I should be looking at CNC 4 line fuel system, their HPOP oil lines which use industrial style fitting, basically every gasket RiffRaff offers, oil cooler, LPOP, New exhaust header bolts and gaskets, new main bearings, new connecting rod bearings, RiffRaff billet intake plenums, ive already ordered a new oil pan and dipstick nut kit, 910 valve springs and some kind of upgraded push tubes and my reman heads. Does there appear to be anything important I’m missing, other than a new HPOP, hoping to squeeze one in or sometime this summer?

I don’t think I NEED one. I don’t remember the pressure test but I think it was something along the lines of if it holds around 2600psi when I step on it going 60 mph it should be fine. Does this sound
correct? If I don’t need one I won’t be getting one yet, no point spending the $500 or better if it’s not needed.

The goal in all of this besides to get my truck back on the road running as it should is to make it run quieter, mainly in the cab. After pulling apart all the fuel lines on the engine I believe ive found part of why it has been so noisy, there wasn’t an intact o ring in the bunch. Ive got a feeling there was a TON of air being introduced into the fuel system. I haven’t done the hutch or harpoon mod either so after i can drive the truck for a while those will be done, its sitting with 3/4 tank or better right now i think. So from injectors actually firing how they should and sealing, no air in the fuel and everything being fresh I should have a strong running truck again, I doubt ive had even close to the 250hp it was supposed to have even with my hydra.

Before I place my order with RiffRaff, does anyone know how to ID what size crank and main bearings I have. I pulled one of each and neither has a spec saying .10 over, .20 over or any other number. None say standard either. I was able to get numbers off everything but know nothing about it. Andybody have some insight? Also, does anyone have an opinion on Mahle gaskets? Or would i be better buying ford only, from RiffRaff?

What all am I measuring on he bearings? The thickness? So mahle would be comparable to the original gaskets? If I’m looking at the gaskets correctly I can get a Mahle gaskit kit for more than a $100 less than piecing together Ford