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I’m in Springfield, Il. Nope, same stickers that came on it new, when I finished painting I cleared everything to preserve them longer. I couldn’t see any of them when I pulled the engine from almost 20 years of grease and oil. Surprisingly it’s not Chevy red or Ford red, just red. I was wanting and am going in the direction of a red and black color scheme to go with IH but most of it is gonna be red it looks like. The front frame rails are a nice glossy black now from
some POR15
There’s a little bit of scaling. But between the pressure washer and a wire brush where I painted cleaned up well enough. But I’m thinking that after seeing the front I might lift the bed this summer and do the back rails
But between the pressure washer and a wire brush where I painted cleaned up well enough.
Except........the garage floor..well done man. Here's to a great sounding stroker...btw, thought the same thing chet did, with the stickers..makes me wanna clean mine
I was very pleasantly supprised to see the stickers still there and intact so i made sure i was careful around them with cleaning so I could keep them. The floor wasn’t too bad, just used the pressure washer to sweep it all out into the gravel in the back lot. Looks like i wont be sticking the engine today either, 10 hours roofing has me tired and my feet absolutely killing me so tomorrow it is. Before i place my last, for the time being, order from RiffRaff, would the high flow banjo bolts be worth the money to buy and install? Ill be running 205/80s with a KC38r turbo and wouldn’t mind having some fun from time to time. I’d hate to have put the work into it that i have and the stock banjos not allow the fuel to flow that the CNC 4 line kit is wanting to move.
My opinion and i hate taking food off someones plate, but for me, id pass on the bolts...with the 4 line feed, your removing, what i think is the restriction, and thats the factory "check valve" thingamajigger...itll flow nicely with new 1/8 juc adaptors installed in head fuel ports..
Are the 1/8 juc adapters the fittings for the line kit? That was kinda my thought in regards to the bolts after I read several reviews and the install instructions. Is there anything else someone would recommend I get for the truck before it’s all together?
I haven’t gotten the cabinet kit but I did buy a complete engine gasket kit and additional o rings for what I knew I needed to replace on the top of the engine, oil plugs and sensors as well as my new HPOP lines.
I got the engine set in the truck and started hooking stuff up. Hoping most of it goes smoothly but I’ve got a hang up right now. For some reason I can’t get the down pipe to line up with the turbo enough to start the clamp. Any tips to get the dang thing lines up properly? As it sits ready to go in The clean painted engine bay How it sits currently
The engine is sitting all the way down on the crossmember but I hadn’t thought about rolling the engine in place. It’s not lining up kinda like the turbo and downpipe are slightly offset front to rear, like the engine needs spun clockwise when looking down at it from above. I’ll get to mess with it more tomorrow hopefully and get some more done, I still need to install the HPOP lines and rebuild the fuel bowl tonight. The LPOP needs to soak and then install so that might be in order tomorrow evening as well plus laying the wiring harness in place.
No good news yet. I got everything hooked up and started cranking the engine, did the first round and got out to let it cool. And there’s a puddle of oil, YIPPEE. I screwed up the oil cooler rebuild and in my attempt to put it together properly i crushed the rear cap. AWESOME. Hoping the local dealer has a decent price on them and seal kit or I’ll be placing another order with RiffRaff and maybe add some rush shipping. I was sooooo close to having my truck back. Here’s hoping the reassembly goes smoothly when i get the parts i need. Any advice for assembling the oil cooler, bolt front cap to engine and tube and rear cap feed into it and seat? I’m planning on using a ratchet strap regardless to seat everything together
I helped a friend rebuild his oil cooler recently.
We removed both the front and rear cap. Cleaned everything up, put engine assembly lubricant on the o-rings, then used a ratchet strap and a rubber mallet to get the cooler back together.
Cleaned gasket mating surface, installed gaskets, then installed the 3 piece cooler assembled.
A bit awkward on the front cap, but not that big of a deal.
..well done man. Here's to a great sounding stroker
...btw, thought the same thing chet did, with the stickers..makes me wanna clean mine
