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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 09:48 AM
  #61  
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And here’s the mandatory picture. This is how it sits, it’s got a bag now
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 09:54 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94
What all am I measuring on he bearings? The thickness? So mahle would be comparable to the original gaskets? If I’m looking at the gaskets correctly I can get a Mahle gaskit kit for more than a $100 less than piecing together Ford
You are going to measure the crankshaft, the mains and rods, then you are going to cross reference that to the original size.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 09:56 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94
Before I place my order with RiffRaff, does anyone know how to ID what size crank and main bearings I have. I pulled one of each and neither has a spec saying .10 over, .20 over or any other number. None say standard either. I was able to get numbers off everything but know nothing about it. Andybody have some insight? Also, does anyone have an opinion on Mahle gaskets? Or would i be better buying ford only, from RiffRaff?
So the bearings might standard, or .001, or .010, or .020. If I were you, I would likely take the crankshaft to a crankshaft grinding company, ask them to measure it and if it measured fine...radius the oil holes and polish. Oh, and tell you what bearing sizes to get...or they could sell you those.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 10:07 AM
  #64  
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I used loctite 592 on everything...good stuff and VERY forgiving.

While you got ur stripped down, either weld up your oil squurters or order new/updated welded ones...its nothing more than a tac weld on originals.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 10:51 AM
  #65  
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I’ll look around and see if there’s a good place to take my crankshaft to have measured most likely then. Without pulling the cam, are the squirters easy to remove? I had the welded ones on my list till I looked at mine and they were all intact and where they’re supposed to be. Thanks for the input on the loctite. That’s still the bit I need to address, finding all my loctite, thread sealer and paint.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94


And here’s the mandatory picture. This is how it sits, it’s got a bag now
Well thar she sits, bare *** naked. You're wasting no time on this project.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 12:45 PM
  #67  
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I’m still probably a week out till I have enough parts to put it together. And yes, I’m trying to get it done fast, I’m driving a pt cruiser at the moment and it sucks. I want my monster back
 
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Old Mar 17, 2019 | 11:07 AM
  #68  
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Did Ford or IH put some kind of clear coat on the engine? Ive been pealing/ scrapping/ pressure washing a yellowish semi clear coat off all kinds of parts. My HPOP reservoir, valve covers, lifting eyes. There’s probably some on the rest of the engine but there’s enough oil residue its hard to tell.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 10:43 PM
  #69  
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I assume these are the valves that i can remove from the HPOP to eliminate the need for the oil crossover line? They were th only thing i could remove when i pulled the feed lines off the pump. Stil waiting on more parts before i can start putting the engine back together but have one question to help me clean. What can i use to help clean all the oil/grease and other crud off the engine? I tried heavy duty oven cleaner, the oil laughed at it, i tried a purple degreaser, it didn’t do anything put turn black, ive scrubbed with brake clean and a wire brush and while it works best so far its very slow going. I really should have sealed the engine when i pulled it so i could use the steam cleaner and I wouldn’t have any issue now but i spaced out since i wanted it stripped so i could get parts ordered. I’d say live and learn but hopefully i wont be in the engine for a longggg time now.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 07:11 AM
  #70  
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Those are the springs and I find that Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) removes things that other solvents won't but it is nasty stuff and might not even be available in CA. I get it at Lowe's by the gallon and you'll either want to work outside (preferable on a windy day) or in a garage with flow through ventilation. A big shop fan would even come in handy. It evaporates quickly so overnight soaking is not easy, might not even be an option.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 07:19 AM
  #71  
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Glad those are the springs, I pulled them and kept looking for a little till I decided those had to be it since nothing else is there. Glad I don’t live in California then. I’ll stop by there today when I’m running around and see if Lowe’s has some. Ive about got the valley cleaned just have the sides and back of the block to do. Hopefully the paint scheme turns out as good as I think it will.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 10:20 PM
  #72  
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Its got a coat of paint on it now but I still need to install the HPOP and reservoir, put together the new oil cooler, paint and install it plus my injectors, glow plugs push tubes whenever they finally show up. I’m planning on finishing pressure washing the engine bay the end of the week and painting the frame as far as i can to make it look even better. If everything works like I’m hoping, and my push tubes show up soon, I think i could be driving my monster next Sunday evening.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 10:48 PM
  #73  
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Still haven’t stuck the engine, planning on doing so tomorrow or Sunday. I need to pick up a coolant temp sensor, coolant, and oil filter. There’s probably something else i need but I’m drawing a blank right now. I cant wait to have my truck back and with probably double the power as when it went under the knife. And the first weekend i have it driving ill be gutting the interior to add sound deadening.






 
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Old Apr 13, 2019 | 09:38 AM
  #74  
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Nice work!! Looking great! Where are you located?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2019 | 12:16 PM
  #75  
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Are those new stickers? If so who sells them? Also, you like Chevy red ? It does look good though!
 
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