Awesome glad you got it fixed hopefully mine is the starter also

 

I was about to change my starter also but I don't see how a bad starter could make my truck die while driving. My starter still sounds pretty healrhy

 

The original poster on this thread, cured his problem by a RE-flash of the PCM. I don't think his died while driving, but if your truck isn't running the most current software, it can't hurt to update anyways...….good luck!

 

I am having identical problem. I will check out the starter and post back. I have been leaning towards ignition cylinder myself, and was heading down that path, but I'll crawl under the truck and check the starter out tonight. I have read through the entire thread, and every time someone has a similar issue, I yell at my computer "NOOOOO! that's not the same issue! Ours doesn't shut off while running!" My problem seems to be exactly like you and Kyles. And its funny that you checked the starter last, because I have been convinced all along that it has nothing to do with the starter. We shall see.

 

Mine is still running fine. The starter cured mine.

 

Did you ever get your "not starting" problem figured out?

 

My 2015 F350 is having the same issue just started doing this when you turn the ignition on and see no glow plug light it will not crank I pull the key out and try again and itf the light comes on it fires right up sure hope someone solves this issue. I called the dealership and they claim, they have never heard of this issue so I am reluctant to take it to them

 

I'm getting this with my 2011 F250 6.7 along with the trailer brake module fault. Truck turned off while on highway twice now. I've been able to get it home multiple times and it's sitting in my driveway. I've tried so many things. But I noticed too about the glow plug light not coming on but if it does the truck will fire but quickly stalls now. I have a ignition switch coming tomorrow. Hope that this cures it.

 

Ok so I replaced my ignition switch today...$25 dollar part. So far so good but I don't want to celebrate too early. No trailer brake module fault no service advance track no random stalling and I drove 25 miles without issue fingers crossed. I immediately noticed the key was a much firmer fit and the glow plug light came on when in the run position. I've cycled on and off probably 20 times today. If you were like me and thought that it wasn't related welp it is. Even, so I'm skeptical. One thing I noticed too was when I had no crank no start there were fuses on the sidekick panel that I previously tested good for continuity but had no power to them when I light probed them, they were 22-27 and 33-37 I think...it was seemingly a block of them no power. When I back probed the old ignition switch I was getting power from all wires depending on which position it was in of course (used my light tester probably should have used my multimeter)...but I'm not a mechanic I was just handy and desperate out of necessity to get it running because it was going to be weeks before someone was going to look at it and after 2 shops looked at it and had no answers I became more desperate. Also, some things I learned along the way that I will do in the future that yall should consider too.
1.) go to ebay and get a spare key, have it cut to match yours and then you can look up video on youtube on how to program it as long as you have your working master key.
2.) make sure all grounds are good and add ground from frame to body on both sides and on front and back of transmission (heard it could be a huge problem down the road)
3.) replace glow plugs if you still have originals (can break off and cause catastrophic failure)
I'm sure most of you already knew these things but I figured if one person reads this and it helps them, then that is a win.

 

My issue ended up being the run/start relay under the hood when I removed it I and turned the key on I got all the messages I had been getting but mainly the glow plug not illuminating I replaced the number 48 relay and have had no issues since.

 

This right here is spot on...So I tested all my relays by taking them out hooking up power, checking resistance etc. all were good. What I never thought to check is the ground coming up from the fuse box. I do not have continuity there nor do I have power coming in to the pin right next to in. The corresponding pins on the fuse are 85- and 86+ the two smaller pins. So I bridged between 30 and 87 with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire and voila everything works including fuses that are in that line down from relay 48 which controls all the other stuff like sidekick fuse panel, other modules, etc...This is crazy stupid of a problem. So, either there is so much corrosion under the fuse box or there is a break in those two wires somewhere down the line. Tomorrow I will start at the fuse box and work backwards. So...does anyone know how to take the fuse box apart? 2011F250 6.7

 

I found a lot of corrosion and dirt in my fuse box which begs the question as to why ford did not seal this fuse block better I am sure mine is not the only one that has this issue

 

After looking at some videos and how this box is assembled I think the issue may be broken wires. It looks like the bottom where all the wires are they just get pushed right to the tabs of the fuse box. I've seen where one person had the tabs depress and pushed down below the box. I can see and probe mine so that's not the issue. Does anyone have the wiring diagram that shows power going to pin 86 the power for relay 48? If I'm not mistaken I believe it comes from fuse 45 but I'm not sure if it just goes from the fuse straight to pin 86 or if it goes anywhere else or if I'm right at all. So fuse 45 has power on both sides of fuse but when probing with fuse out from the non hot side to pin 86 I'm not getting any continuity and if I'm thinking right it's supposed to be. Also, the wiring diagram for pin 85? I think it comes from the BCM not 100% positive on that either. I'd just like to know for sure because if there is a wire break down the line somewhere I'd like to see where and inspect the rest of the wires around them. I think the most ideal situation is just to see the bottom of fuse box and say oh there's the problem...but knowing my luck lol I'll spend all that time taking box apart and wont find anything. There's a gazillion wires in there.