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Lofar - since you have a 2003 model year, you more than likely have the PCM flash that eliminates the EBP sensor input and infers it from other sensors.
Later engines that do use the EBP sensor input have logic in the PCM that if it fails completely, the PCM will infer the value, but only if the PCM determines that it has completely failed. All model year engines can have significant starting and running issues if the v-reference wire in the EBP sensor shorts out (whether the EBP is used by the PCM or not). In fact any short in the extensive v-reference circuitry can cause no-starts and poor running conditions.
As you know, the boost is the pressure increase from the turbo. This value plus the Barometer reading will equal the MAP value.
It is not just a rumor that low voltage will damage the FICM. Lots of proof of this. Low voltage will damage the power board. The FICM also has a logic board that can fail, so simply watching MPower (47.5-48.5 volts) is no guarantee of a healthy FICM. If your Logic Power (LPower) fot your FICM isn't within .5 volts of your battery voltage, then you have an issue, perhaps with the FICM relay or maybe w/ the FICM itself.
Rumors..... For a decade and a half 6.0 owners have been dealing with failed FICMs. I think we've got that nailed.
>>> FLP and FMP are FICM voltages, afiak they should be ~12v otherwise that would indicate a logic fault.
Guess I have a logic fault. My volts are too high.
Marc, you're FICM output is fine, but the voltage in the harness readings are a little low. Due to the connections from the alternator and through the harness connections it's not unusual to see about a 0.5v drop from alternator output. A stock alternator without a loads of anything switched on in the cabin except for the motor running at 68mph should be outputting 14.2v when cold, and 13.8v when the underwood temps are hot. The regulator reduces voltage under high temps to protect the batteries.
After three minutes from startup I would check your voltage at the passenger battery terminals and see what that is. While a low output alternator could cause the readings you show, so could poor contact at the positive and negative wire connections. I'd start at the battery terminals and if you don't improve the voltage readings start hunting down the grounding points. It's why I did this:
Thank you, going to research and see if I can find out the issue. I need to check the idiot needle and see what it says but this is the kind of stuff I want to keep an eye on.
Owners manual says, "The transmission fluid should be in this range if at normal operating temperature (66°C-77°C [150°F-170°F]).
Here is some more data with a picture of the gauges in the driver's seat and of torque. This was at same time as the picture of the Torque OBDII picture.
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