Cannot find trans temp for the life of me, but otherwise it looks good i think.

 

I got lost in one of these before, only to find the thread starter had a manual trans, please tell me that is not the case here - there is no trans temp on a wrist shaker... The fact you don't see trans gear in green is a clue that something is not talking here...

 

 

I have a 5R110 automatic transmission, everything i look at says it should work, i'm just not sure why it doesn't.

The screenshot i was on the accelerator, but the engine had not warmed up yet.

 

Battery voltage reading is lower than it should be IMO. I would be very unhappy w/ 13V or below.
If the engine is fully warmed up, the oil temp won't actually be lower than the coolant temp.
I agree w/ packagerjr. MAP is by definition the "absolute" pressure. It is the sum of boost and the barometric pressure. Your MAP reading doesn't appear to add in the BARO reading.

 

Alternator is next on my list when everything is running properly. When I first got it going again, the alternator wire started smoking and burned off the rubber. I quickly shut it down, cleaned the connection, and it hasn't done it since though.

Is it possible the baro sensor is bad? Is there any negative impact with that?

 

I guess the Baro sensor could be bad. IIRC though, it typically is a setup issue w/ Torque Pro.

The Baro is used in the combustion controls, so it can cause some rough operation and poor fuel economy if it is bad.

 

I'd guess it's torque then, it runs very smooth and fairly good fuel economy. Last tank was 16mpg driving ~70mph all highway.

I see 13-13.1v when i'm driving from the voltage, it's typically only in the 12's when idling.

 

I have a thought: I didn't add in Trans Temp while hooked up to the truck - problem is I'm not sure which one I picked (think it was Method 1), so you might have to do trial and error on this. Anyway once I got the gauge up it was reading the same as coolant temp. What I found was you had to edit the PID go down to the OBD Header section and change it from "Auto" to "TCM". I also see that there are 2 transmission gears to choose from. I looked at both and the first one is set to "Auto" in the same OBD Header area, but the second one (Method 2) is correctly set to TCM.

How to get to what I'm talking about: fire up Torque without it being connected to your truck. Click on that gear symbol in the lower left, then click on settings, and go down to Manage extra PIDs/Sensors. You'll find the whole list in there -- you have to select the one you want to look at and select edit to see all the data fields.

I hope this gets you there,
Scott

 

Is there any harm in keeping tourqe connected all the time? I think having this data you could spot trends and potiential problems before they happened.

 

For normal day to day driving (short runs of less than 12 miles round trip), I don't turn on the cell phone I use for Torque, anytime I'll be making a trip of 40 minutes or more, I use it.

I certainly don't think it would hurt to leave it on all the time, I just don't care for having to restart the app every time I start the engine

 

I don't think it would hurt either - some folks have installed Android based stereo head units and run it on them, they probably watch gauges alot of the time... Also if you do find something you'd like to do a bit closer analysis on: there is the data logging feature - you do have to pre-set up what PIDs and how frequently you want them logged, but when you finish a trip, you can load the file into Excel and analyze away!

kgburns: On the not re-connecting on engine re-start -- mine always reconnects. I'm not sure if it is the adapter, or a blue tooth setting in your phone or a setting in Torque; but a number of folks have had the same issue as you - but mine works every time...

Scott

 

I am new to diesels and especially anything older then 2010.

1. The discussion on what the number should be or shouldn't be is a mystery to me, but I did find some data int he 60L Bible. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

a. Coolant should be close to temp of the EOT or engine oil temp. If the two temps vary by a lot (not sure how much) there could be a problem
b. Boost- Should be 22 PSIG min at 3300 RPM. (From the Performance diagnostic sheet (page 89 of the 60L bible)
c. MAP- Manifold Absolute Pressure - No sure about good or bad numbers.(Generates a frequency that indicates manifold boost pressure above atmospheric pressure) Freq increases as pressure increases. The formula in Torque is: (((A*256)+B)*0.03625)-BAR0()
d. FMP- 48.0 volts is normal
e. FLP- No idea what it stands for.... 12 volts is good?
f. FVP- No idea what it stands for.... 12 volts is good?
g. HPOP or ICP- HPOP 3000 PSI good; ? At idle normal 650-800 PSI (min 500 psi for ejectors to be enabled)
h. IPR- Injection Pressure Regulator (Controls injection oil pressure; quantity of fuel delivered to combustion chamber is proportional to injection control pressure) 30% max at idle (670 rpm)
i. Vbatt- 12v min
j. EBP- No diea 36.5 psi
k. IAT2= Intake Air Temperature 2 Sensor (Air temp after passing through the charge air cooler)--Maybe 20 degrees hotter then IAT1 or outside air?
l. VGT- Variable Geometry Turbocharger 50%- some say good to give it max to exercise full range of motion.
Fan- Has a max of 3300 RPM
* Oil pressure regulated to 75 psi

2. What would be your top 10 gauges to monitor and track for performance.

Thanks, Marc
2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L
186,000 miles

 

 

FLP and FMP are FICM voltages, afiak they should be ~12v otherwise that would indicate a logic fault.

vbatt should probably be 13v min. Car batteries generally have 13-14v, buy a new battery and test the voltage. Also alternator should charge 13-14v, depneding on the engine speed and alternator condition. Rumor has it that undervoltage can damage the FICM. It's a rumor, but it makes sense to me. Strong alternator is key to any electrically sensative electronics.

EBP: I just had this go out on me, twice. It can cause overboost or no boost at all. EBP at 0 means sensor failed, turbo solenoid doesn't open. EBP and MAP(?) go into the ECU deciding how much turbo vanes should be open. if either one fails, no turbo = ~250hp motor. Fine at speed, but pulling out of hte toll booths can be terrifying because of how long it take syou to get up to speed. Also up hill you'll lose speed. If it fails high you might overboost. Mine failed low, and progressively it was reading more boost than i was producing while actually producing less boost. This is how i knew it had failed, i was reading 15psi and didn't have the power i should have, nor hte throttle pedal at the position that would cause 15psi.