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Lift hood. both sides have a plastic ,appears to be intake. Driver side is vent to drivers legs. Passenger side appears to go out through fender and then back into heater box.....Perhaps I have that pathway incorrect.
Welp, ya think 3 inches of merc is bad for idle. Been arguing with the carb. Runs great most days but occasionally is whacked.....wont idle and just dies. Finally slapped a Vac gauge on it and prob showed up. Figured the massive oil leak that coated everything trans and back is probably a significant problem. LOL......So I'm quite sure this is not the only prob with this engine but maybe I can at least get it drivable. Maybe.
This is a 15x7 with a 31x10.5x15. It's a bit tight on the calipers with stick on weights....trying to come up with a mfg that would do a 16 but of course BFG doesn't do the same tire in a 16. Guess I'll have to see if the regular weights will clear the calipers. Fingers crossed.
I have a parts tub, 3 inner core supports and a couple of grills, a hood and a dash...if you need anything patch panel wise. But I know you are a metal fabing guru anyway.
Welp, ya think 3 inches of merc is bad for idle. Been arguing with the carb. Runs great most days but occasionally is whacked.....wont idle and just dies. Finally slapped a Vac gauge on it and prob showed up. Figured the massive oil leak that coated everything trans and back is probably a significant problem. LOL......So I'm quite sure this is not the only prob with this engine but maybe I can at least get it drivable. Maybe.
This is a 15x7 with a 31x10.5x15. It's a bit tight on the calipers with stick on weights....trying to come up with a mfg that would do a 16 but of course BFG doesn't do the same tire in a 16. Guess I'll have to see if the regular weights will clear the calipers. Fingers crossed.
What about balancing beads? No worry about clearance issues
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
I have a parts tub, 3 inner core supports and a couple of grills, a hood and a dash...if you need anything patch panel wise. But I know you are a metal fabing guruanyway.
Thanks for the offer Rich! Honestly, if I could replace the door openings and the garbage fabwork done to the floor it would be an insanely solid tub. The rear fenders were repaired with the front fender trick somewhere along the way and DC happens to make the entire piece in that config now so those will be going on at some point.
I'm going to 408 or 427 it first....let it be rusty for a while.....I don't care. Doors don't shut right due to the condition at the bottom of the A pillar.....don't really care about that now either.LOL
Just think....strap the wife in the passenger seat nice and snug and then come out the driveway and launch that sucker. Imagine all the rattles that just come naturally in Broncoville and the doors that don't quite shut right. MY GOD that's gonna be funner then heck!
What I really could use is a 4x4 c-4 housing. Mine has pits in the servo bores.
Beads in the tires will be a last resort as I'm pretty sure the crimp on weights will be fine. I've decided to rattle can the wheels....to heck with powder, I can do that later.
This is getting to be kinda funny. Got all the usual parts for the diz and checked the vac advance module after that. Of course it is bad and of course, ya can't buy that part. Aargh!!! K, new, cheap,single point diz is in.
Still won't idle for very long. Spray some gumout and shore enough.....carb is sucking air through the throttle shaft......sigh......more parts needed.
So, I devised plan, not a good one but a plan nonetheless. I figure this carb is toast so why not try a "fix". I pulled the throttle shaft out and got me a few Viton orings, came up with the pretty much right shims and attempted to kinda seal up the shaft with just the right amount of tension to hold the orings up against the base of the carb....it totally worked! Not perfect but enough to say that the carb is toast cause I have a steadyish idle and timing that is reasonable. Whoohooo! I win suckaaaa….kinda.
Wanna know something...while digging around for some bushings I came across the "rebush" bushings in my pile of bushings. I think they were a bit too big as it seems if I drilled to the OD then there would not have been too much material left in the baseplate. Oh well, maybe some day I'll have a carb that they'll work on.
4 several yrs I saw a 're-bush' kit (reamer & bushings) on flee-bay. The soft alu case is worn away by hrd steel butterfly's 'pin' (just a design flaw - over yrs of use) and vac leaks occur. Not sure of it still being listed. Basically what U did I assume.
Got the wheels painted and mounted up some tires today. Also dropped a new 2 barrel carb in there and it is literally amazing how much better the Bronc runs. Nothing like getting rid of major vacuum leaks.
Now I need to figure out why every gauge is pegged while running. Hmmm?
IVR is what I'm going after. I think I used Duplicolor wheel paint. They survived the tire shop very well. Proper prep of course.
I don't think I'll be taking a tire iron to them anytime soon. They will get powdercoated eventually and I needed a carb way more than wheels coated.
My driver door is sagging bad, looked at it today to see if I could put some bracing in the a pillar to hold it up a bit. Nothing to brace against left soooo let the door sag, I guess. Hmmmm, maybe I'll just take them off? Hmmmm.
Edit, went looking for tube doors and I guess I needed to type it out to see the fix. Confirmed the fix and I'll start hacking tomorrow. I can make it work (so simple).
Rich, I looked at those but I wanted something a bit warmer. My original thought was flawed as usual so I did it the old fashioned way. I didn't bother grinding it smooth as the entire pillar needs to be replaced but the door shuts beautifully now and will last plenty long enough.
Found rust.....even in Wyoming.
Took some 1 1/2 flat bar and made a bracket on the left side. Plug welded …..not to the fender!!!!!!!
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