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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 09:34 PM
  #31  
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Looking good, looking real good.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 08:48 PM
  #32  
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Found that one bolt......trac bar bolts were rusted very, very firmly to sleeves. Sawzall and torch came out of hiding.

Got most of the suspension buttoned up and disc brake swap is just about there. Had a moment today when torqueing the ball joints. When I torqued the top joint the knuckle got fairly loose as far as effort to move back and forth. Before it was torqued all felt nice and tight. When I tried to back off the adjusting sleeve it was tighter than heck. Had to impact it loose. Did that 3 times and thought better of setting the torque again as the nut was getting beat up pretty good. Left it loose and moved on to axle U joints.

Researched the heck out of that ball joint prob and I'm going to just torque it and be done.

Does a disc brake swap HAVE to have a prop valve? I'm thinking I'm gonna run with the h block as the bronc wont be on the road for a while. Watcha think?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 10:37 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by grinnergetter
Does a disc brake swap HAVE to have a prop valve? I'm thinking I'm gonna run with the h block as the bronc wont be on the road for a while. Watcha think?
Not everybody needs a prop valve.
I don't have one and don't have a problem as of yet.
Seems Broncos often times have a pretty good brake bias to weight transfer.
But if you experience too much bias to rear on a heavy panic stop, then I would suggest installing one.

I even eliminated the "H" block. All it does is sense a difference between front to rear and light a dash bulb to tell you that you are about to crash.

One thing you might want to do though is make sure your master cylinder has no residual valve in either of the fittings, which it may if it was originally a drum/drum type.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 05:28 PM
  #34  
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the discs came oem w/my frnt end. I put in a Mark VIIIIIII (or something Lincoln) MC. The rear is an '85 el derado rear disc (no E-brake here means no Inspection sticker/no driving on rd). There is an H block but no r-valve or p-valve. Wrks OK & has no power booster. Will go to the astrovan hydro-boost soon.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 09:54 PM
  #35  
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Been getting er done the last few days. Not always easy when you aren't the one who took it apart or changing the system all together.

Went back to the ball joint issue...torqued and for whatever reason it seems fine now....weird!

Still need to get the front brake system to the H block but I'm breathin on it. That line is soaking in Kroil. I kinda boogered the tie rods so gotta get some new parts there. Ends were questionable anyway but I didn't want to drop another 300ish just yet.




Found me a 351W in the back room of the hardware store..... Thinkin 408 / 414 ….research for now on that idea.



 
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 08:00 AM
  #36  
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"...Thinkin 408..."
McFain of 'Chessy', VA has had 1 for 20 yrs. U may contact him on CB. Sorry don't know his 'handle' over there. Met him on MidLantic Bronks when the net wuz young. It seems like the perfect bronk motor (the largest 'square motor" made) but if I ever change out mine I'm goin 4.9 EFI (mid/late 90s). Good Luck.
Looks like yer gonna have a nice 1 soon!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 09:07 PM
  #37  
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Doublechecked my work and installed rear brake lines today. I had read about the Bronc lean from new fangled coil springs and thought I should have a look. Welp, the Bronc gods smiled on me and then kicked me where it counts. No suspension lean but:

This kinda sucks:




That should teach me to not put a tack weld on the back side.....DANGIT!!!!

Any chance the holes are for something factory? Center of bumper.



THIS IS CRAPPY WORK . Other side is just as bad, no seam sealer found here.

 
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 09:20 PM
  #38  
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"...the holes are for something factory?..."
don't think so, never saw that on the 3 or 4 it took to make my one.
Nice chrome bumper tho...
 
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 10:33 PM
  #39  
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1. So it just pushed back in? Well time to bust out the welder and put that tack weld on there.
2. Center of bumper? Nothing goes there factory wise as far as I know.
3. Some one replaced something and yes did it badly.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:14 AM
  #40  
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On the bright side....they only did floors...what a shmuck! It's damn near a 1/2 gap.

Studs are tacked and wont ever, ever be that lazy again!
I really love this kind of puzzle.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 07:34 AM
  #41  
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a problem solver fer sure!
Keep'er goin bro !
 
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Old Jul 29, 2018 | 06:17 PM
  #42  
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What happens when you dont have all the parts to assemble......analness.



Couple of good stories from the previous owner. I elk hunt with him in the fall. More of a having fun shootin at stuff vacation than a hunt, but we have a blast.





I asked Jim for any old pics of the bronc I could copy, got a story instead. He meant Jackson Hole. Hopefully I can dig a few more stories out of him as I'm sure there are many.








 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 08:00 AM
  #43  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
how much weight?
I use mine to get in the winter's fire wood each yr...
Will put in the softer multipac. Wonder bout addin air bags 2 help...
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 07:44 PM
  #44  
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I'll bet a buff has got to be close to 2000 on the hoof....that little bronc was squatting plenty I'm sure. Probably all it could take although it was dressed weight so I'd say that would be quite a bit lighter.

Pressed the bearings on one axle tonight...no prob. Pressed the bearings on that axle that was replaced and it's a no go. seems the diameter must be a bit different......so scrap a new bearings and order new axles I guess. Gonna call my parts guy and see what my options are tomorrow. Daggummit.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 07:27 AM
  #45  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
I'm not sure what yr U got. Bronk had 3 sz rear berrings I believe.
Then again w/a 50 y/o vehicle any of the 3 ( 9" rears) could B swaped in.
CB lists them all. Must B a stickie over there 2 research.

Is the axel straight in that area (sm berring)? Is there a swelling @ that point (big berring)?
 
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