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First, never put your email address in a post that can be scanned.
Second, it serves the community better when all types of questions are in the open.
There are only 3 people on this site that have my email address, it's given out sparingly due to lessons learned over 30 years. Even my PM's are now restricted (see signature). However, if this is really something you'd rather not do in public I'll open my PM access to your handle. It that necessary?
So basically you run a 1/0 from positive battery terminal to the other positive battery terminal and then you run 1/0 from driver side frame to the negative battery on the driver side. I'm going to be adding the 230 amp lease Nevelle alternator do I need to run a positive wire off of the alternator to the passenger side positive battery
Okay do I need to add 2 8 gauge ground wires from negative driver side battery terminal too the ficm ground and the PCM ground locations at the firewall and the on the driver side fender and how long do those cables need too be
Last edited by Chris Hanan; Oct 12, 2018 at 09:47 PM.
Reason: Spelling
The easiest, least complicated is to go 8ga 24" 1/4" eyelet to 1/4" eyelet between the pass negative terminal and the FICM ground screw by the hood driver's strut, and 8ga 18" 1/4" eyelet to 1/4" eyelet from that connection to the firewall PCM/CJB ground screw. You could go up to 6ga, but I wouldn't necessarily do 4ga. Been there, stresses the bonding cables more then I care for at starter engagement.
I thought the ficm ground screw was on the driver side right by the steering wheel I'm confused LOL thank you very much for responding to I'm about to order all these cables
Ya gotta let me do the self-depreciation thing now and then. It's part of my schtick.
It's: deprecating -- unless you're talking about the stock market which is self-depreciating. There, Now I've given you something to self-deprecate about...