Where ever you feel comfortable.

The four locations by the crank are all 12-1.75mm threads, the locations on the head are all 10-1.50mm threads.

 

Thanks for the pic. I dont have the second alt so I was going to use that bolt hole but didn't know what the sizing was. I ordered the wire long enough I could use the factory ground but didn't know the pros/cons of the grounds sharing the spot.

 

 

It would make sense just to use the driver side ground then. Thanks again for all the info. Funny I thought I was going to just do a coolant flush and ended up with starter and wiring mods and a new CAC tube.

 

I wanted to add some tips and observations, having done the Driver's side additional Ground from Frame to Block point where a second Alt set-up would ground to (the 12mm x 1.75 pitch threaded hole above the Stator stand off).

I ordered a 24" Marine grade 1/0 cable from Geanuinedealz.com with HEAVY tinned copper lugs on both ends, also having them put Adhesive lined heat shrink over each cable to lug connection - the hole size you want is 1/2" for the block side and 3/8" for the frame side - cost delivered via 2 day priority mail was $18.96.

First off: this cable, routed the way I did it, is longer than needed, so I have some big loops. I would at least take 2" off and would not be surprised if 4 to 6" less (an 18 to 20" cable) would not be the cleanest install. I routed mine from the block, over the lower power steering pump hard line and up over the steering box and came into the factory frame ground about 180 degrees from how the stock frame cable to battery comes in.

I found that a 20mm long 12mm diameter by 1.75 pitch grade 8.8 bolt was the perfect size for the block -- longer and you will have trouble getting it lined up to go straight in without interference on the head with the pulley and whatnot.

Before starting the project turn your front wheels to the left (at minimum), removing the driver's side wheel or jacking that corner up would have been smart, had I thought of it.

I wire brushed off the block around the new ground location, then felt that wasn't good enough so used a dremel to get the surface super clean. I applied motorcraft dielectric grease to all mating surfaces. You should also add some split wire loom protector to the section going over the steering box. Use some wedges to lift the inner fender plastic liner out of the way so you can access the frame ground -- that bolt is a 13mm head and a ratcheting box wrench works great for off/on.

The Block side is very tight access and I didn't have a good wrench to fit the 19mm head of the bolt for that spot -- too tight for a socket, not much swing room for a 16pt closed wrench -- I don't know if they make a 32 pt. but that would have been perfect.

START on the block side, once cleaned and greased, get the bolt well started (cable routed between power steering lines) and then work on your routing over the steering box and to the frame area. Then go out to the fender well and completely do the frame side -- I think Jack told me that bolt should be torqued to 18 ft. lbs. -- no room for anything close to a torque wrench the way I did it, so I tightened to the point where I felt if I went more it would strip (calibrated hands from many stripped bolts/nuts ).

Finish by positioning your cable protector (it was already on the cable, yes?) and getting the slack balanced. Then tighten down the block connection - again Jack said for a grade 8.8 it's 35 lbs. (iirc), but no way in h_ll you are getting a torque wrench in there, and it is a strong interface between those threaded parts, so I just went as tight as I could with the wrenches I had - try to give some space between the cable and the lower power steering hard line while you are doing this, as it is a rub point otherwise...

That's all I can recall and I'll take some voltage readings once I can move my head again (strained neck while in wheel well, ugh).

Scott

 

Thanks for adding to the story.

Kudo's for you Scott doing that through the fender shield. Me and those shields don't get along.

 

Besides the neck, you should see the backs of my hands! Removing that inner fender well shield would make it a piece of cake (on that side) -- I have no clue how you'd do it from under or inside, unless a LOT of other parts were removed 1st... I'll send you a log file when I can drive again :-/

Thanks again for all you have done Jack, both answering my side questions, but more importantly, putting this info all together for others to gain from...

Scott

 

Just trying to be useful.

I looked at doing it that way but it was a no-go. I'd rather pull the battery, tray and CAC pipe. But I also don't have the stator.

 

great videos man! have helped alot & great insight!

 

 

no worries man, get better & look forward to whatever video clip you post next...

 

Jack...you answered a post on this topic but I'll be damned if I can find it again. A gentlemen wrote that he watched your videos (as have I) and was still a bit confused on what he needed to actually add for cabling (as am I). Would you please break it down again for us slow people on what to add, both grounding and battery cables?

Much thanks!
Marc

 

No problem. When I wrote technical reports on tests I ran my director often would tell me no one outside of those who would normally receive the reports would have a clue of what I was saying. And where I am now I'd redo all the older videos.

Oh, and my voice is still breaking up....

I started out with the objective of getting both batteries to work in harmony, so their life was extended and we had the best voltage during starting. And that's still a valid goal. Ford designed the system around the passenger battery being the main battery, and the driver battery as the support or auxiliary battery to support a diesel's higher starter loads. But in the design of just being support, they approached it as an add-on. The battery pack should have been designed as a pair or system. OTR trucks, transit busses, and all large Diesel engine vehicles have the voltage supply designed in a more balanced manner. But for an ideal system, it will take a good $300-$350 to redo the entire cabling. That's fine if you're cables are in need of replacement, but the system works OK and with a few dollars we can improve the balance.

By installing an additional ground cable in the drivers battery circuit we can get an improvement. The cheapest way is to install 18" of 1/0 cable from the drivers negative termination at the frame to the engine. A little more expensive and better version is to install the factory cable that is used by the dual alternator vehicles. It's the same cable used on the passenger side, a 1/0ga from the battery terminal to the engine block, with a not really need leg to the frame. If you are making your own cable it can be a battery terminal on one end and a lug on the other connected to the block.

There also should be an improvement on the positive battery to battery link, and this can be a 2ga cable to simplify the discussion 70" long eye to eye with1/4" lugs on the ends. in hind site for everyone across the country, I could have just said a 1/0ga for the coldest temps, but I was trying to lessen the cost for those not needing it.

So very basic:

2ga 70" eye to eye, 1/4" lugs, positive.
1/0ga 18" eye to eye, 1/2" and 3/8" lugs, negative.

Upgrade to that:

1/0ga 70" eye to eye, 1/4" lugs, positive.
1/0ga 38" Battery negative terminal to 1/2" eye, lug, negative.

Doing that gets you a (relatively) balanced battery pair for starting loads. There are some losses on the negative side that feed the electronics due to the negative small gauge cables to the body tub. That can be addressed with an inexpensive 6 to 8ga cable run from the drivers negative terminal to the FICM/PCM/CJB grounding points.

So, here's the kicker. With the stock battery cabling the drivers battery doesn't see as much of a battery voltage drop as the main or primary battery on the passenger side. You can actually improve your voltage to the FICM and PCM during the starting event by using an 6ga negative cable from the drivers negative terminal to the fore mentioned FICM/PCM grounding points (or the driver's inner fender) and removing the 8ga cable off the passenger battery. With the stock cables the driver's battery is somewhat isolated from the starters big draw. And that's the video I can't finish right now.

It's actually a tough call what to do. We are not talking a huge differential, but then we get kind of crazy with big cables and big alternators that actually do less then these.

6ga 30" cable 1/4" eye to 1/4" eye, battery to ground 1
6ga 18" cable 1/4" eye to 1/4" eye, ground 1 to ground 2.

Hell, this is probably still confusing ........

 

Thanks Jack!!

So if I understand correctly, best course of action for a balanced electrical system is (1) add the additional 1/0 cable between both positive posts, (2) add/modify/replace driver negative cable to go from post to the block and frame (using the same cable as the passenger negative for example), (3) add 6 ga from driver negative terminal to PCM/FICM ground points, and (4) remove the 8 ga pigtail from the passenger negative terminal at fender.

Sound about right?

 

Yep. You can leave the 8ga at the pass side in place as a safety margin. I have to re-assemble my motor to fully test that to my satisfaction.

More of a compromise is to use 8ga at the drivers side and ;eave the 8ga on the pass side too. There's a lot of leeway here, I'm down the rabbit hole of Nth degree.