Grounding/Negative side work.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Grounding/Negative side work.
Starting anew.
First video, again.
Second video, again.
Third video, new. Will go live tonight on YouTube unless I see some rework. I suck at proofing.
First video, again.
Second video, again.
Third video, new. Will go live tonight on YouTube unless I see some rework. I suck at proofing.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Thanks. Sometimes I amaze myself how I can drag out a simple project. That 8ga cabling is the "super secret cable" I'd been holding back on. It's nothing secret, I just had two goals. To explain how/why I got there and wait (18 months) to make sure I didn't screw up something like a FICM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2005
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Thank you for all the effort involved with producing another great video! I'm learning with your help and following through with your findings.
Last weekend I went through and cleaned up all the negative ground points with a wire brush and DeoxIT, then reassembled with copious amounts of dielectric grease. The only bolt I could not crack was the bolt on the engine block connecting to the firewall bonding cable. I then added a 1/0 AWG Negative Passenger Frame to Engine Block Grounding Cable, a 1/0 AWG Passenger Positive Battery Terminal to Driver Positive Battery Terminal Connection w/150A MRBF Fuse on each end. I then installed a Bosch AL7606N 140AMP alternator w/58MM overdrive pulley and with it I added a 1/0 AWG Alternator to Passenger Battery Connection w/175A MRBF Fuse. I've been sourcing all my wire through Genuinedealz, they've been great to work with and I highly recommend them to anyone looking for quality custom configured cable.
I'm eagerly waiting for the follow-up video showing these new cable configurations!
Thank you again for sharing all this with us!
Howard
Last weekend I went through and cleaned up all the negative ground points with a wire brush and DeoxIT, then reassembled with copious amounts of dielectric grease. The only bolt I could not crack was the bolt on the engine block connecting to the firewall bonding cable. I then added a 1/0 AWG Negative Passenger Frame to Engine Block Grounding Cable, a 1/0 AWG Passenger Positive Battery Terminal to Driver Positive Battery Terminal Connection w/150A MRBF Fuse on each end. I then installed a Bosch AL7606N 140AMP alternator w/58MM overdrive pulley and with it I added a 1/0 AWG Alternator to Passenger Battery Connection w/175A MRBF Fuse. I've been sourcing all my wire through Genuinedealz, they've been great to work with and I highly recommend them to anyone looking for quality custom configured cable.
I'm eagerly waiting for the follow-up video showing these new cable configurations!
Thank you again for sharing all this with us!
Howard
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From: Jersey Shore
Howard, you’re welcome.
You’ve already done a lot of advancement. What I’m thinking of for for new mains is for the 10th degree and I’d only say to do it if your mains are an issue. The last fender 8ga cables I showed is a real good addition.
You have fuses on the parallel cable between the batteries?
You’ve already done a lot of advancement. What I’m thinking of for for new mains is for the 10th degree and I’d only say to do it if your mains are an issue. The last fender 8ga cables I showed is a real good addition.
You have fuses on the parallel cable between the batteries?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Foothills, CA
Another fine piece of work, Jack! So I either need to go watch the video again (I have a cold and my head is spinning with meds), but my take away from first run through was: additional ground for alternator is optional, but if you do one, go from the alt. body point provided to the passenger battery neg? Also, I remember talking with you about the ABS ground point by the drivers headlight to driver's batt neg. as optional, but sounds like now you would encourage doing it...?
Not that anything is happening on the 6.0 right now -- we've been travelling a lot (and catching colds), and I still need to do the driver's batt neg to block before anything else...
If no changes to 1st 2 vids., the new one should be linked to the thread up in the Tech Section...
Keep it up!
Scott
Not that anything is happening on the 6.0 right now -- we've been travelling a lot (and catching colds), and I still need to do the driver's batt neg to block before anything else...
If no changes to 1st 2 vids., the new one should be linked to the thread up in the Tech Section...
Keep it up!
Scott
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Right now I think the additional negative ground from the alternator to the frame is optional if you have jumped a negative on the drivers side negative to the block with any alternator over 140a. A simulated 1/0 alternator ground cable flowing the same or less then the 12ga firewall to block cable kind of negates it’s use. Down the road I’m going to test a small bonding cable instead of from the firewall to the block direct to the alternator back from the firewall. It won’t necessarily flow more but should be less resistive then the current block to firewall layout. At it still “bonds” the motor to the tub. If I ever get over to Bills I’ll take my existing braided cable and see if that fits.
You were installing a 6ga cable from the drivers battery to the FICM/PCM grounding points so I don’t think the ABS connection was necessary. The hopefully last video on this series I’ll show what going to a 4ga cable does, which although I ran for at least 6 months brings in the drivers battery too much after I started looking at flow in a different context.
After the motor is running you can do almost anything you want to as far as cables, flow is all moving from the alternator to batteries or the body tub, except for the glow plug situation if you have a 110a. But during wait to start and especially when the starter is engaged the engine block turns into a black hole. And we have two negative circuits, and both circuits have parallel cables (or circuits if you will). So if the main 1/0 battery cables are the primary circuit, any cables we add like the 4/6/8ga to the secondary negative circuit will act as an additional channel to the black hole. I’m diagraming that in the next vid, it’s the reversing of flow in the bonding cables. So it comes as a balancing act depending on resistance. If you add too big of a cable off the drivers battery the 12ga bonding cables get forced to a higher flow during the starting event. You’ll be surprised how much. And you’ll be surprised about the FICM too. I’ve always said the danger to the FICM is during starting. Putting a 230a L-N on the truck does nothing to alleviate the issue. Good batteries like you have or three as Randy installed. And the cable I’ve added to the drivers negative terminal.
Anyway, none of this is critical, it’s just taking it to another degree. The are hundreds of thousands of trucks running around stock.
You were installing a 6ga cable from the drivers battery to the FICM/PCM grounding points so I don’t think the ABS connection was necessary. The hopefully last video on this series I’ll show what going to a 4ga cable does, which although I ran for at least 6 months brings in the drivers battery too much after I started looking at flow in a different context.
After the motor is running you can do almost anything you want to as far as cables, flow is all moving from the alternator to batteries or the body tub, except for the glow plug situation if you have a 110a. But during wait to start and especially when the starter is engaged the engine block turns into a black hole. And we have two negative circuits, and both circuits have parallel cables (or circuits if you will). So if the main 1/0 battery cables are the primary circuit, any cables we add like the 4/6/8ga to the secondary negative circuit will act as an additional channel to the black hole. I’m diagraming that in the next vid, it’s the reversing of flow in the bonding cables. So it comes as a balancing act depending on resistance. If you add too big of a cable off the drivers battery the 12ga bonding cables get forced to a higher flow during the starting event. You’ll be surprised how much. And you’ll be surprised about the FICM too. I’ve always said the danger to the FICM is during starting. Putting a 230a L-N on the truck does nothing to alleviate the issue. Good batteries like you have or three as Randy installed. And the cable I’ve added to the drivers negative terminal.
Anyway, none of this is critical, it’s just taking it to another degree. The are hundreds of thousands of trucks running around stock.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Foothills, CA
Thanks for the clarification and specific to my install answer
. While I was watching the video, I was thinking you had got your truck back running -- then I checked your other thread and see you are still working on it -- good luck with that too...
Scott
. While I was watching the video, I was thinking you had got your truck back running -- then I checked your other thread and see you are still working on it -- good luck with that too...Scott
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From: Jersey Shore
Working on the motor has been like asking me to take out the garbage when I was an adolescent. It’s belly up as we speak, need to pull the crank.
All those videos are 18 to 36 months old.
All those videos are 18 to 36 months old.
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From: Jersey Shore
NOOOOOOOOO! I found a number of things I'd do different, even just another narrative would have been good. The overall intent for what I could do with those meters is there, the next one I can point to what I wouldn't say before. This has dragged on for so long I just want to put it to bed.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2005
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Sorry for the tardy reply, I've been travelling all day...
Yes sir. I had a few of the MRBF fuses and holders left over from a solar project so I thought what the heck, I'll put them to use. I was always told to fuse as close to the battery as possible so I added a double fuse holder on each of the pos battery terminals. I used one of the double holders on the passenger positive terminal for the parallel cable between the batteries and the other fuse for the new alternator cable. I also used a double on the driver positive terminal, one for the parallel cable and the other I am using as a spare fuse holder.
Yes sir. I had a few of the MRBF fuses and holders left over from a solar project so I thought what the heck, I'll put them to use. I was always told to fuse as close to the battery as possible so I added a double fuse holder on each of the pos battery terminals. I used one of the double holders on the passenger positive terminal for the parallel cable between the batteries and the other fuse for the new alternator cable. I also used a double on the driver positive terminal, one for the parallel cable and the other I am using as a spare fuse holder.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 9
I'm trying to give as much voltage love to my FICM as possible so this is next up on the list when I get back home!