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Pics are always good for the forum. With the 6ga cable addition its a toss up of tieing in the 8ga leg to the ABS ground. That would be the equivalent of my 4ga cable that I ran for 6 months. With my weak, pedestrian batteries I was pushing 100a back through the 12ga firewall to block cable during starter engagement (video not published yet). It can handle more, just surprising.
Tomorrow might be the urgent care day. It’s frigging July!
You could use the stock pulley from your existing alternator with the L-N if that’s the one you choose. If you go with the 140a, get the smaller pulley to overdrive it at idle. It won’t overspeed the alternator at the 6.0s maximum rpm.
Somehow you managed to give me your summer cold. Thanks a lot! Argh!
I put a smaller pulley on a 140a from Advance Auto (free warranty replacement, first one died after 4 years), and I'm guessing there's actually something wrong with it. It charges well, but engine RPMs over about 3100 would cause over-voltage, and trip the circuit breaker in the cab. Torque managed to grab the voltage spiking to 17v. For now I put the old pulley back on. I suspect I should take it back to Advance and get a new one.
It’s a simple cable to make, I’m showing how in the next video. I’m just waiting to get a few more voltage readings to publish.
Missed this post...I think I'll wait until this next video and maybe I'll do the cables myself. Also, the improvements I've seen in my FICM voltages are holding strong!!! On my recent road trip FLP & FVP were a steady at 14V (occasionally dipping to 13.5) and FICM bounced between 48.5V & 49V
Somehow you managed to give me your summer cold. Thanks a lot! Argh!
I put a smaller pulley on a 140a from Advance Auto (free warranty replacement, first one died after 4 years), and I'm guessing there's actually something wrong with it. It charges well, but engine RPMs over about 3100 would cause over-voltage, and trip the circuit breaker in the cab. Torque managed to grab the voltage spiking to 17v. For now I put the old pulley back on. I suspect I should take it back to Advance and get a new one.
Honest, I never sneezed on the iPad.
Yeah, that’s a voltage regulator issue. Many have done the smaller pulley without issue. But even with a stock sized pulley you’re in better shape then with the 110a.
Okay, so the factory cable we've been talking about that would possibly do the grounds on the Drivers side, will not work. It came in last night but I only got a chance to look at it today. Jack and I have been having a side discussion on some of these particulars, but the killer for me (or at least any 05+ 4x4) is: the branch ground that should go back to the frame from where you tie the set into the block, is only 12" long eyelet to eyelet. So we know at least this factory cable won't work. But that doesn't mean Jack's idea of finding the dual Alt Driver's side ground won't work -- just need that part number... Here are a couple picts:
Scott
Scott, do you have a picture of looking down at the block and frame? And what's th total length of the cable?
Dang -- I knew I shouldn't have boxed it up yet! I'll go get that measurement, plus the Battery side small branch length (that would go to the ABS ground perhaps). No picts of any value looking down - I didn't even take this out of the house. From way back when, we determined I'd need something like 2' to get to the frame (common) ground point from the block -- I have 2 - 3/0 cables that are 12" and I played around with was there any way to use what I had in hand. Back then I think you said better to get a single cable than to tie those together to get the length needed...
Okay, Total length of cable, measured from center of eyelet that would be block ground point to el of battery clamp (where the clamp itself makes a 90 degree turn, but still is metal), is 36". From same base metal point to center of eyelet that "could" go to ABS ground is 12". I'm dropping it off at the post office in a few minutes...
It's hard for me to check anything without the motor or battery trays in the chassis.
I think I noted earlier from two sources it shows this and the drivers side cable for the dual alternator. I'm wondering if the main part of the cable fits from the battery to the block, but hey don't connect the pigtails to anything. If both main cables to the block, then the one 1/0 leg block to frame on the pass side is sufficient for the load at the rear of the truck the 7.3 only has a light gage block to frame.
Dang -- I knew I shouldn't have boxed it up yet! I'll go get that measurement, plus the Battery side small branch length (that would go to the ABS ground perhaps). No picts of any value looking down - I didn't even take this out of the house. From way back when, we determined I'd need something like 2' to get to the frame (common) ground point from the block -- I have 2 - 3/0 cables that are 12" and I played around with was there any way to use what I had in hand. Back then I think you said better to get a single cable than to tie those together to get the length needed...
Be back in a minute...
Scott
Yep, every connection can have more resistance then the cable itself. The biggest issue that the original design has. On the drivers side between the battery terminal and the block there are 3 bolted connections, the passengers side 1. The 3 are a series resistor circuit, each bolted connection sums. If we get it down to only 1 we eliminated resistance and voltage drop.
I have a friend with an '04 and dual alts -- he doesn't live very close or I'd run over and take pictures and notes of where his Drivers side all goes to... Jack: know anyone with dual alts? Or maybe we could just start a thread asking for someone with duals to take pictures and/or trace the Driver's side grounds that connect direct to the battery...? There has to be a different cable for them, just has to be...
Scott
I can't remember anyone having duals. Not listed different ...... But I can't see them leaving a hunk of cable going nowhere either. It has to have a place.
Argh!
