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Are you cranking mostly w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire, w/ key off? If not, it is much better to do so.
After cranking as much as you feel is necessary, if it is still not registering pressure, I would try one more time w/ the ICP unplugged. I know you have tried that before, but it is worth one more try since you aren't developing enough pressure to even get a FPW signal out of the FICM.
Yes with the wire and just got thru with the ICP unplugged. I can’t believe that I haven’t cranked it enough, but going to stay the course for today anyway. Thanks.
Those are block off tools in case you're wondering. By using those tools you will be removing all eight injectors and both oil rails out of the high pressure oil circuit. This enables you to check HPOP output pressure with only the HPOP itself, branch tube (and lower standpipe halves) as well as IPR in the circuit. If using those tools continues to reveal very low ICP psi output, well those parts are the source of your issue.
m-chan68, thank you! Cranking all day didn’t get me more than 50.1 psi. Going to take a couple of days off from this project and handle a few projects that my wife has decided are of the upmost important . In my mind I was trying to figure out how I could seperate branch tubes from the HPOP and the HPOP from the oil rails. This would cut out the oil rails so that would help. I think if I have to go back in and do HPOP i’m going to raise the cab. Making love to the engine ain’t as easy as it used to be
You could also remove the HPOP, and using a rubber tipped air nozzle apply regulated compressed air directly to the branch tube and listen for leaks. If you are only able to produce 50psi of ICP,, and a leak source is the cause, it should be very obvious with the HPOP and IPR taken out of the equation. Failing to pinpoint any leaks by this method will point squarely to the HPOP as your culprit (assuming the IPR is confirmed good and no lube oil system supply issues).
Those are block off tools in case you're wondering. By using those tools you will be removing all eight injectors and both oil rails out of the high pressure oil circuit. This enables you to check HPOP output pressure with only the HPOP itself, branch tube (and lower standpipe halves) as well as IPR in the circuit. If using those tools continues to reveal very low ICP psi output, well those parts are the source of your issue.
Nice tool but $430! Still cheaper then throwing an unneeded HPOP at it though.
After fooling around for better than a week and ignoring that “slight” air leak under the drivers side valve cover I decided to take it off. I found my leak. This is what I get for ignoring the step by step process (and that slight leak). I had convinced myself that the HPOP was bad and I ignored everything else. (Hard Headed). I have never seen or heard of the top “C” clip and the “D”? ring blowing off. I didn’t trust that injector not to do it again, so I replaced it and resealed all injectors on that side. That was it . When I first pulled it off I nearly had a stroke when I couldn’t find the clip or the ring. I just knew that they had fallen down into the head. Gave up and walked over to the oil rail to check it out and there they were.
Put everything back together, and with very little cranking she fired up. The bright side is I put in my new wiring harness and a IPR gen2 EGR delete. As of now I only have the ABS code to deal with. It states left wheel sensor.