So, my driver's power window quit a few months ago. Luckily it was in the up position, so I continued to drive the truck.

About a week ago, I rebuilt the power window motor with 1/4" x 20 nuts as described in our forum. After reinstalling the motor the window still didn't work. I found out it was the dual gang power window switch that was bad.

You could buy the dual gang power window switch from LMC Trucks. That along with a power door lock switch bezel (which was missing on my passenger's side door) would be $139.90!

Being the cheapskate I am I decided to get some Dorman parts and make them work (since I am an electronics tech). Really, this a simple procedure. If you're having trouble with your power window or door lock switches this is the way to replace them. It isn't OE or NOS parts, but it looks good and the only person who could tell it wasn't stock would be the guy with the red beard, so you'll be set!

This is Dorman 901-016. It's a power window switch but I got it to replace the door lock switches. Notice the extra long connector. This makes it so stupid/lazy people can't use a GM part on their Ford. Please note that Dorman 49242 is the same part but I got two of them and 1 of them broke before I even installed it. I don't know if the 2 different part numbers are from the same manufacturer or why they're labeled differently but definitely go with 901-016.



Here is Dorman 901-017. It will replace the dual gang power window switch on the driver's side. Of course, it has the anti-stupid people connector on it. No worries.



Here is 901-016 after shortening the anti-stupid people connector with a dremel.



Here is the OE dual gang power window switch.



This is the OE power door lock switch. Notice it has 6 instead of 5 plugs like 901-016. One of the plugs is a dummy plug when you look at the female receptacle. 901-016 will only go into the OE receptacle 1 way and function properly.



901-017 looks pretty good in the door panel. It uses the same tension clips as a retainer. It's a bit smaller than the OE power window dual gang switch, but unless your doing a Jay Leno restoration who cares?



Here it is completed. Just make sure you rotate the power door lock switch; 901-016, 90* so stupid people will know it's for the door locks instead of a window.

 

Good to know these are available. We are going to be needing these for my dads truck.

 

Glad it will help. You can get the OE parts from LMC Trucks bu they're just so expensive!

I think I spent less than $50 for these 2 switches and a power door lock actuator (Dorman 746-147). Most of that was the actuator at $37.95 from Amazon.

 

This plugs directly into the truck harness after grinding the switch post down?

 

Correct.

 

I read your post and tried the Dorman 901-017 dvr side double power window switch for my 85 F150 and not everything worked properly. Not sure if I got a bad switch by chance or if anyone else had the same issue when using this part. I know it wasn't made for "FORD" but the part did fit easily in the wiring socket just like the original Ford switch did and you could control both the passenger side window and the driver side both up and down but what did happen was that it caused the passenger window switch to only work way and not both, you put the original back in and passenger switch would go back to working both up and down. Craziest thing ever but figured I would check with you guys to see if anyone else tried using this switch so I know if I just got a bad dorman switch or if this is one of the side effects of using the cheaper none Ford switch.

 

Sorry it didn't work for you. Did you replace the passenger's window switch too? I'd take the Dorman 901-017 back to the parts store and get another. I mentioned in an earlier post that I experienced that as well.

I noticed I made a typo in my original post. The dual gang switch for the driver's door is Dorman 901-017 or 49242.

 

thanks for the quick reply. I did replace the passenger switch and socket thinking that one or both had gone out causing the problem, not ever thinking it could have been the dvr door switch that was causing it. I am thinking maybe I just got unlucky and Dorman may have sent me a fluke manufacture defective switch if everyone else that went with that as a replacement didn't have issues. Dorman customer service wasn't much help since it was not designed for a Ford. haha! Maybe there are more out there that will comment on successfully using the Dorman 901-017 as the replacement and had no issues, then we would know they just sent me a faulty switch.

 

Here's a good troubleshooting guide.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/power-windows2.html

If both of your windows work with an original switch and then only the driver's window works with the Dorman 901-017, chances are the Dorman switch is bad. If you replaced the female receptacles in the door when you got the Dorman switch use the linked wiring diagram and make sure you didn't get anything turned around.

 

thanks for the info. on dvrs side, I only replaced the switch assembly, the female socket side I left original. maybe that is the issue....? If you do the 901-017, maybe you have to replace both the switch assembly and wire in a new socket (female receptacle). maybe the wires are all the same but to diff pins. I think you might be on to something here. you probably replaced sockets and switches all the way around when you did it.

 

Ooops! I thought you mentioned you replaced the female receptacle. The only thing I did was modify and install the Dorman 901-017 & 901-016 switches.

Here's a video I did on replacing the passenger's door switch.

 

We did the same thing. We actually ordered the $$ LMC replacement and it didnt work. Went to the local Oreilly's and grabbed this one for the driver side and it worked great. We do have the 'factory' LMC replacement on the passenger side.

 

That's a great video. Nice!!! I did replace both socket and switch on passenger side but that was with Ford parts. on the double switch dvrs side, I only replaced the switch with the Dorman 901-017 but kept the Ford socket. It looks like if you are going to replace using this switch, you probably have to replace the socket that goes with that switch as well for it to be completely functional. I sure appreciate all the feedback and help.

 

Thanks for watching. Sorry you're having difficulty.

 

I wasn't able to locate part info for the one you guys grabbed from Oreillys that ended up working. Thanks for the help. Look forward to your reply.