@onug, fail twice and they make you go to a certified shop that would immediately flag the deleted emissions equipment and it omits the truck from getting a waiver, so you're forced to put it all back on before retesting. The argument I and many others have is that 2007+ Diesels are omitted from testing because "they have adequate emissions systems". So my buddies with deleted 6.4s are laughing at my emissions issues since they can go blow coal down the freeway all day and register fine each year without testing.

@Bently_Coop just snap tests to check opacity (sniff the tailpipe). Legal limit is 30% opacity. The system will make you snap a few times to get a good reading. If you have to snap like 7 times it is a bad sign. The test should get numbers it likes for a pass in just a few snaps. I had to snap 7 times in my failure and only 3 times on my pass. Really imparts to get to warm operating temps so you're not running rich at the test. And don't go with a custom street /performance tune like I did, it's a bone head move lol

 

 

One issue I always ran into with the other truck was it did not pass any AC on the power port and they could not get a signal to verify the engine RPM.
So they would always end up under the hood to get a RPM reading. So when I had that truck tested they would have to get the supervisor to come over and
do something to the testing computer so they could finish the test. Also I found that I could pass with that truck tuned with Matt's 8K tow tune and
factory FICM tuning.

The 2007 diesel rule is so stupid because the 2006 Ford diesel truck has the same base engine and PCM strategy as the 2007.
Now I need to point out that the early 2006 engine is a little different than the 2007. How ever it's not something that would
have any effect on the emissions.

As for any expanding of testing so far then are not. After all it just to get more money out of your pocket. If Inslee had
his way you would be paying more and getting checked all over the state.

 

Yeah for my tests they always had the manager come out and override for the rpm test and they just sniff the exhaust and make you do the snap tests (full throttle burps). No rpm monitoring, they just make you do a test snap with the door open first to watch your foot go to the floor, then they listen for it to sound the same during the test.
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Started putting up lights this weekend. Got about half the gutters done. I've got thousands of lights. I try to make it look like Christmas barfed Christmas cheer all over my property.

Got tabs for the Subaru again so now I can rest the Excursion for repairs if I need to. Calling Randy's tomorrow about getting the rear diff inspected.

Probably taking tomorrow off work. I've got more vacation than my rollover limit, so I've been taking Monday off most of October and November.

 

@NW going for the 08+ Aluminum cover? When I did mine I used some Flange head bolts from McLendon. Avoids the hastle with washer's. Add a locker or true-trac at the same time?

 

Want to take mine in too?
I know I need a pinion seal replaced. The guy down here that did the transmission install for me when I was messed up bad said $800.
But that was with a new crush washer and inspection of the bearings. If I go that rout I will likely have him toss a new set of clutches in
the carrier while he is at it.I have a set of tools that he soes not have for checking the breakaway torque to check the clutch pack and we
may make a trade on some of the work

Do you recall the bolt size for the alumimum cover? I was given one by one of the 6.0L guys.
@bismic had a cover he had gotten and sent it to me but I still need the right bolts for it.

Have any of you used the reusable gasket for the rear ends? Worth doing of snake oil type thing?
I really hate cleaning up the RTV on the cover and axle housing. What a mess.

I did not get the new exhaust installed this weekend things sort of got in the way. I now have the truck
parked so I can get at it and so the big torpedo heater can blow heat under the truck to warm me up a bit.
Nothing like cold and wet work in the driveway with metal tools and parts.
I set a deadline for having it installed so i can be in Idaho on Thursday for Thanksgiving.

 

Here is an interesting thing I found while surfing.

 

 

With the iPhone you can't remove the battery to be 100% sure.
That leaves you with a few choices.
1. Leave it behind
2. Build a small Faraday Cage
3. Crush it into tiny bits and then toss in a strong acid mixture to dissolve all the bits.

EDIT I found this on CL. If anyone is in need of a 2012 Long bed check this link.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/6752372026.html

 

@Yahiko I know a couple Excursion guy's used the lubelocker gasket. I used RTV black. Royal Purple was the cheapest gear oil I could find, however I saw Mobil1 at Advance later on that was a few bucks less.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/893997-my-rear-differential-service-with-pics.html

Bolt size 5/16-18 x 1-1/4

 

Thanks for the info.
The other truck has Mobil1 in both axels. Still ended up adding a bit more of the friction
modifier in the read do to some popping going around corners. I tried doing the figure eights
to see if that would solve it. Nope so I put in a bit more and that fixed it.

 

 

Yes, Someone posted that info in the 6.0L forum. The info makes sense.
More is not always a better thing. Just like stuffing extra grease into the ABS port.

 

I don't know what I'll do when the diff work is done. I imagine I'll spend more money than I meant to.

Pulled the trigger on '08 conversion tow mirrors tonight from oedro in Kent. Will be interesting to see what the quality is for $140 a pair. Lots of happy customers tho.

Finally got motivated and swapped my Iron Cross running boards over to the Ex and played around with some LED strips for additional lighting. The white is wired into the existing parking lights and they'll run amber with driving lights after I run a wire from the front lamps.