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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 11:12 AM
  #886  
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onug
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
That is some fine looking bubble wrap you have there. I see you are
holding it down with a grill. That should keep it from blowing away.
LOL. Yep, I’m predicting this state is about to ban all bubble wrap, so I’m looking to corner the market. You all will be coming to me with money in hand for some of my pre-ban wrap in no time.
 
Old Nov 14, 2018 | 11:44 AM
  #887  
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Originally Posted by onug


LOL. Yep, I’m predicting this state is about to ban all bubble wrap, so I’m looking to corner the market. You all will be coming to me with money in hand for some of my pre-ban wrap in no time.
 
Old Nov 14, 2018 | 02:11 PM
  #888  
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Originally Posted by onug


LOL. Yep, I’m predicting this state is about to ban all bubble wrap, so I’m looking to corner the market. You all will be coming to me with money in hand for some of my pre-ban wrap in no time.

Maybe they will just add bayonet lugs from the bubble wrap to make it safe. How ever it's a good idea hiding it under that grill. I would be sure to hang onto it for that reason.

On a other thought. So that you can keep it handy how does the grill install? I know with the 2006 F250~F350 they just have 4 screws and some clips to keep it in place.
 
Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:56 PM
  #889  
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Just so you know, I’ll have discounts for my FTE brothers. And I’ll refer to it as “standard capacity” bubble wrap to foil the censors.

I wish it was only four screws to install. If I remember the YouTube I watched, it goes something like:
  1. Remove the 4-6 plastic push-screws (whatever they’re called) and pull off a plastic shielding from the top of the grill (hides the radiator)
  2. Remove two screws from both wheel wells to allow me to pull out (not remove) the head light covers
  3. Remove a few more screws behind the headlight covers
  4. Unplug the active shutter assembly
  5. Remove a bunch of other screws on top of the grill
  6. Pop out a bunch of clips
  7. Remove the entire grill/shutter assembly (this is where the video stopped, so I’m guessing from here)
  8. According to the guy I bought the grill from, it’s a few screws and clips to swap over the shutters
  9. Reverse the previous steps to reinstall.
The guy I bought it from said he got it all done in a few hours. We shall see, I’m never that lucky.
 
Old Nov 14, 2018 | 10:04 PM
  #890  
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You know I think I will stick with mine in this case. Too much work.

Speaking of work and what not. I went to pick up my pipe clamps and we came up one short.
Going to have to wait a day for one more 3.5" clamp. I went with the stainless wide band clamps.
This way I don't crush the pipe like with the old style pipe clamps.
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 12:56 PM
  #891  
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My BP oil cooler works too well! I can't get my oil temps to stay in the 180s while driving in this 'cold' weather we have now. Might need to stick a piece of vented cardboard in front of it. =P
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 12:57 PM
  #892  
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did you get the model with the thermostat?? or did you get the non-winter package?
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 01:41 PM
  #893  
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It's not the winter package.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 01:50 PM
  #894  
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Originally Posted by NorthwesternCowboy
It's not the winter package.

with where your at i would add it... itll get you to the 180.... i have the extra wide cooler and have the cold package as well on mine... even when i went back home where it got into the negs it still got up to 180... when i first installed it the oil temp would race the coolant to 180 and beat it there... then it started to taper off till the coolant was beating it to the point it was lagging behind about 40* contacted Andrew at BPD and they sent me a new t-stat for free.. installed it and oil temp was back to beating the coolant to 180...
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 01:55 PM
  #895  
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Originally Posted by NorthwesternCowboy
My BP oil cooler works too well! I can't get my oil temps to stay in the 180s while driving in this 'cold' weather we have now. Might need to stick a piece of vented cardboard in front of it. =P
Is that the nominal temp for the 6.0? My temp ranges from 190-205 in normal driving.
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 01:56 PM
  #896  
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200 is best for better fuel economy... but 180 is minimum for burning/evaporating the condensation/water out of the oil...
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #897  
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Originally Posted by Sparky83
200 is best for better fuel economy... but 180 is minimum for burning/evaporating the condensation/water out of the oil...
Right now in the 40s/50s we have I'm running 190Coolant 160s/170s Oil. If I sit in rush hour my oil will rise to low 180s and on a nice hill climb I'll see 190coolant 185oil
New coolant radiator and new BP oil cooler are refridgerators.
 
Old Nov 15, 2018 | 02:33 PM
  #898  
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when i wrote them before buying they recomended if you got near freezing temps in the winters to get the cold weather packages... but if you lived in a desert like in nevada and arizona then you didnt need them... thats why i went with the 180 cold weather package... even when we were moving and i had the bed full of concrete stones and my little trailer sitting on top in the bed and the 8x16 cargo hauler filled to the rated limit the highest i saw temp wise was 220 for both... even the 13 mile trip from home to work before the move it got up to temp in a hurry...
 
Old Nov 16, 2018 | 12:51 PM
  #899  
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Blew a 42 at 'the place' today - whoops. Guess my tune might be a little hot. Probably a bonehead move to not return to stock first. Now I play the gamble on the dreded retest... Do I just tune stock and go again today or do I throw a muffler on or something for extra measure... Decisions, decisions...
 
Old Nov 16, 2018 | 04:07 PM
  #900  
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Emissions?

Scrapped a couple aluminum engines and other small bits. Scrap metal just isn't worth what it used to be.
 



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