Good morning Sean and the rest the group!

Looks like it's going to another nice day here!

 

I just watched the video. I wonder how they weigh something like as it is growing?

 

Would not of been that hard to place load-cell under it in the beginning
and every now and then come out and plug the hardware in to read the weight.

 

 

Just walked in from jacking up the front end to inspect hub/balljoints/tierods - joints and rods actually seems firm and secure in the front. The only wiggle I get was that when I turned the wheel from the 3-9oclock position, the other side wheel would turn slightly on the ground. Seems strange that I can turn the front end that easily, as most videos I watched said you shouldn't be able to turn the other tire by simply push/pulling on the other side tire. Maybe I'm just really strong?

However - neither front tire can free spin! The right side hits the rotor every half turn in the same spot and the hub CRUNCHES when I spin it. Seems fine.
The left side front cannot free spin at all. Also seems fine.

Guess I'm inspecting my powerstop calipers and the stock rotors and also looking into front hub replacement.

 

Hub as in uni-bearing or locking hub? Which grease do you use for the brakes? I've used Permatex Ceramic, some in the Excursion thread recommend Motorcraft. Friends at Firestone recommend Ceramlube, can't find a place to order it though.

 

Oh... good question. I'm glad you asked, because I'm in noob territory with 4x4 front end hubs. My Ex has manual lockout hubs up front already. I'm not sure how things are put together in there. I'll do some more research before hitting any 'buy' buttons.

[edit] Ah, I see - two parts. Locking hub part on the outside, hub assembly like the Timkin on the inside.

Is there something like this on the inside and you attach a Warn lockout hub on the outside?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118918&cc=1420388&jsn=346

I just brought my calipers/pads over from the other excursion because this one had terribly damaged equipment but the rotors seemed fine. Everything sat for a long time and I didn't re-grease things when I swapped the newer Powerstop parts over to the green guy. I'll make sure to take the time to clean things up nice while I have things apart.

 

Looks like if I want to do the full deal I would go with:
-Timkin wheel bearing assembly with ABS
-4 new studs for the Timkin assembly so I don't have to extract and reuse the 4 existing studs from the old assembly
-Warn locking hubs for kicks and giggles to get rid of the originals that look like junk.
-Looks like the Warn hubs need a spindle nut conversion kit. [edit - I already have locking hubs, so the conversion is done already, correct?]

Then I should probably check the rotors for warping or just grab some new ones, along with pads. Then make sure my caliper equipment is greased up real good.

 

For $850 shipped I can get
-2x Timken front hub assemblies w/ABS sensor plug
-2x Warn Premium locking hubs
-2x PowerStop Z36 rotors (I liked the ones on my 2WD)
-PowerStop front pads
-8x Dorman wheel hub assembly studs

Wondering if I should get axle seals and u-joints too - sheesh you can run a tab up real quick.

 

The Timken are the ones you want or so I am told by almost all of the 6.0L people. As for the hubs Warn has a set of locking hubs for the Superduty that are PRE-05.
I know that they won't work in the 05 and up Superduty trucks and seeing how the Ex tends to be 04 and older parts that should work. I was under the impression that a
hub came with the studs installed. You might want to ask in the Ex forum to be sure if you have not already.

 

You shouldn't need the studs, they come with. Do you have a grease gun and grease fitting for the ABS?

If doing axle seal and you joints I have the Lisle seal press. If going that far are your ball joints solid? Practically there already.

Warn 38826 is the Hub kit for 99-04 trucks, you'll be disabling the ESOF then too. I used a couple pipe thread plugs for the nipples and capped off the rubber lines.

Most of the work can be done with hand tools and a three jaw puller.

Check this how-to page out. Well put together information.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/04F250_articles.htm

Does Turbo have a dial indicactor? Able to check run out for the Rotors?

 

My plan was to get new PowerStop rotors for the front anyway, because I've got the rears off my other Ex and have yet to install them - probably only 2000 miles on them. A new set up front will pretty much make everything match. I just don't like the way the previous owners took care of anything mechanial on this truck, so going new makes me feel better even for a bit more $$$.

The Warn 38826 is what I was looking at. I've got to take a closer look at my hubs and see if someone else already swapped the ESOF hubs off or not. I've never needed to try 4x4 so far, so I have no idea. I didn't know the ESOF hubs still had a manual lock option until I was looking them up tonight. Plugging the lines seems easy enough.

I've got a grease gun - any fitting I assume I can just grab at the auto parts store if needed. I was going to try to hold off on swapping too many things at once mainly because I want to try to figure out exactly what thing is causing my vibration. If I swap everything, I'll never know what it was, even though I'm aware it's the smarter approach for saving time. I don't mind.

I'll sort out the stud inclusion - the kit details do not contain that info and the Timken site says "some come with studs and some do not". LOL - super helpful.
The pictures do not include the studs like the Motorcraft kit does. That's what confuses me. Lack of detail. I can't be the first person to wonder if they are included LOL

I think I'll give it a go and see what I can do. Good learning opportunity if nothing else. Rockauto site appears to have gone down, so no order going out right now, but when I can get back in the site I've got everything except the Warn hubs in the cart. Warn hubs I'll grab from Summit or Amazon... probably Summit, I hate trusting Amazon auto parts dealers...

I can also take it slow and go part by part if needed. I'm in no hurry really, I guess.

 

List sounds good.

RiffRaff Diesel makes a fitting that uses the OEM allen bolt. They are based out of Oregon, Sponsor the Excursion section and Good people.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting-99-16/

If you plan on doing your own oil changes they also make this cool filter cap socket.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-fuel-oil-cap-socket-94-10/

Otherwise Snowseeker in the Excursion section makes or used to make fittings for cost.

WE3Zs mentioned it takes 22 pumps of Grease for one Uni-bearing.

 

I'm going to go with just the Timken hubs and pads/rotors and see how things look. If my auto-locking hubs end up being OK, there's really no need to go to Warn in interest of money savings now. I'll stick them on the wish list. Looks like I can grab Timkens and Powerstop kit on Amazon for just over $500 and Prime shipping, so I'm going to give that a go and see what happens.

 

I don't have the part number for the kit. Ford has a seal kit your going to need that has the O-rings and the other little parts for doing the unit bearing. The kit comes
with two of the yellow O-rings so you can test the sealing with a vac pump. It also has a new axle snap ring along with a new set of screws for the hub with the new
sticky seal that goes on the hub. It's got adhesive on one side and you just remove the backing paper and your ready.. The 3 things that are always good to have are
the screws (they get nasty rust) the O-ring and the circlip for the axle. We all know that sometimes they take a flight into the mystery regions of the garage.