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I have a 1999 Ford F-150 which i have lost the key for, is it possible to change the ignition or is there any other way of getting the vehicle to start?
Is this the only key? If so, you have a major problem and need to see a dealer. Without a programmed key, the ignition is "immobilized" and will not recognize any new key which is not programmed. This won't be cheap but it's your only choice. Some of the better auto shops have a key programmer and they may charge slightly less than the dealer but it's still expensive.
If you only have one spare key left, you can buy a new one from Amazon and have it cut; but do NOT try to start the ignition until it is programmed. You can turn it to ACC to see if it fits but do NOT try to engage the starter. If you do, the car's computer will de-program the original key and both keys will be "immobilized". This is in your owner's manual.
I only had one key when I bought my 2002 F-150. I bought two spare keys, had them cut and then took all three keys (one original, two spares) to a dealer to get reprogrammed. If I happen to lose one of the spares, I can still reprogram a new spare with my other two keys. This is also in the owner's manual.
Nonsense on needing to see a dealer. Any DIYer with an OBDII adapter, a Windows computer (or tablet) and some free software can re-program PATS. Of course, a dealer, locksmith, or properly equipped mechanic can also do it.
If you do, the car's computer will de-program the original key and both keys will be "immobilized". This is in your owner's manual.
More nonsense. That is NOT in the owner's manual because that is NOT how it works.
I can still reprogram a new spare with my other two keys. This is also in the owner's manual.
At least you got that right...
is it possible to change the ignition or is there any other way of getting the vehicle to start?
Yes. You will need a set of new lock cylinders (Ignition + doors) with properly cut keys. Once those are installed mechanically, you then need to re-program the PATS system in order to enable the security system which will allow the engine to start. There is no practical way to otherwise resolve the issue.
A Ford dealer can cut and program a set of keys from the VIN without the need to change the lock cylinder.
This is desirable so that the door locks would still match the ignition lock.
The cost to tow it to a Ford dealer may be a significant factor to consider.
The dealer will require proof of ownership.
From my OWNER’S GUIDE F150 2002 MODEL YEAR (Part no. 2L3J-19A321-FA – Third Printing):
On pages 112 through 115, you will find information on the automatic arming and disarming of the SECURILOCK PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM which is designed to, “prevent the vehicle from being started unless a coded key programmed to your vehicle is used.”
It states, “If an unprogrammed key is used in the ignition it will cause a ‘no start’ condition.”
Perhaps I understand this wording incorrectly. I take it to mean that the computer has shut down the ignition to all keys, including the original coded one. Can anyone verify this, one way or the other? There is no further information in the Owner's Guide.
The last time I messed with the steering column I needed the key to remove the ignition lock. There is probably a way to replace the lock without the original key but I don't know it.
Now for the PATS immobilizer. A decent locksmith will have the tools to program a key to you truck. He should also know how to either make you a new key or replace your existing lock&key.
If you had a key that worked physically but was not programmed to your truck I would recommend and ELM 237(?) OBDII adapter and forscan freeware. Forscan will not program PATS by default but it will if you request the special upgrade license and give valid cause. They don't want to enable the criminal element.
If you are the average owner then your realistic options are the dealer or a locksmith.
IF you put a non programmed key in the ignition and try to start, it will activate the THIEFT light and shut down the ignition, but motor will rotate... As soon as the key is removed and a GOOD KEY is installed, the system will return to normal and startup.
IF you put a non programmed key in the ignition and try to start, it will activate the THIEFT light and shut down the ignition, but motor will rotate... As soon as the key is removed and a GOOD KEY is installed, the system will return to normal and startup.
Thanks for the clarification. It would have been nice if my Owner's Manual had included all of this instead of just, a "no start" condition. I guess Ford just likes to scare people.
On a different note, when I bought some extra new, unprogrammed remotes (separate from the keys) for my 2005 Escape, I programmed them successfully with the Owner's Manual instructions. Unfortunately, I didn't have one of the original remotes in the vehicle near the steering wheel when I did this. It got "deprogrammed", so I had to bring that one in the car with all the other remotes and do it again. It worked and it was easy to do but that was an interesting lesson to learn.
Unfortunately, I didn't have one of the original remotes in the vehicle near the steering wheel when I did this. It got "deprogrammed", so I had to bring that one in the car with all the other remotes and do it again.
Yes, that is correct for remotes of that era. The programming routine wipes all stored remotes and you start over. There's probably a note in the owner's manual to take all of your remotes to the dealer if this is on your plate.
Yes, that is correct for remotes of that era. The programming routine wipes all stored remotes and you start over. There's probably a note in the owner's manual to take all of your remotes to the dealer if this is on your plate.
Actually, the owner's manual had clear instructions on having two remotes in the car with the original. It didn't occur to me that I needed both original remotes in the car when I programmed the two new ones and the one that I left inside the house stopped working. I'm assuming a new program was installed for the original remote when the two new ones were programmed, and the one that was too far away from the steering wheel was left with the original program code. Anyway, it all worked out when I started over with all four remotes in the car.
when you start to do the remote "program", it erases all memory and starts over... so leaving the two originals in the house should result in the new ones working, and the two in the house NO LONGER PROGRAMED....... if you want 4 remotes, you need to have 4 remotes ON SITE for the programing.
when you start to do the remote "program", it erases all memory and starts over... so leaving the two originals in the house should result in the new ones working, and the two in the house NO LONGER PROGRAMED....... if you want 4 remotes, you need to have 4 remotes ON SITE for the programing.
Let me clarify about the remotes for my 2005 Escape. I had only one ORIGINAL in the house, one ORIGINAL in the car, and two NEW ones in the car. All three in the car worked on my first try but the ORIGINAL remote in the house stopped working after that. That's when I brought it into the car with the other three and started all over, to get all four on the same program.
I realize this is a completely different scenario from the keys but I thought it was interesting. Since my 2002 F-150 is an XL and has manual locks, I have no remotes and this doesn't apply in this case.