Injectors...favorite TOOLS?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Injectors...favorite TOOLS? (videos after install)
Accessing the bolts can be challenging. I've helped pull drivers side recently on E99, but other side is "level up challenging" (see, I'm not too old to be hip!) A couple were so tight, thought they would round off (!)
I have various stubby wrenches, knuckles, etc. But would like to know what YOUR favorite tools are for accessing these bolts?
If there is an easier way, I'm buying the tool!
Pics and sources, please?
Lets see them
Edit: See Excursion starting after 4 months starting at post #217 : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17653215
Videos after installation of injectors, follow same link to jump to that section
I have various stubby wrenches, knuckles, etc. But would like to know what YOUR favorite tools are for accessing these bolts?
If there is an easier way, I'm buying the tool!
Pics and sources, please?
Lets see them
Edit: See Excursion starting after 4 months starting at post #217 : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17653215
Videos after installation of injectors, follow same link to jump to that section
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 31
From: Northern Illinois
Valve cover bolts:
Standard and deep 1/4" drive sockets with extra long and extra short 1/4" drive ratchets. I kneel by the passenger tire and reach in for 3 of them on the passenger side.
No need to remove anything on my truck to get to them.
1/4" drive 4 to 6 inch extension. Must be knurled. makes it easy to spin bolts out once loose.
Glow plugs:
10 and 11mm 1/4" drive deep 6 point sockets. Crack lose with the 10mm and use the 11mm with the knurled extension to spin them out.
Comfort:
old camper dinette cushion. lay it on the radiator and grille.
Step stools. at least 2 so you are not moving it from front to side everytime you move.
Fan. A good fan. preferably an old one. A breeze helps a ton when working for me.
Standard and deep 1/4" drive sockets with extra long and extra short 1/4" drive ratchets. I kneel by the passenger tire and reach in for 3 of them on the passenger side.
No need to remove anything on my truck to get to them.
1/4" drive 4 to 6 inch extension. Must be knurled. makes it easy to spin bolts out once loose.
Glow plugs:
10 and 11mm 1/4" drive deep 6 point sockets. Crack lose with the 10mm and use the 11mm with the knurled extension to spin them out.
Comfort:
old camper dinette cushion. lay it on the radiator and grille.
Step stools. at least 2 so you are not moving it from front to side everytime you move.
Fan. A good fan. preferably an old one. A breeze helps a ton when working for me.
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Valve cover bolts:
Standard and deep 1/4" drive sockets with extra long and extra short 1/4" drive ratchets. I kneel by the passenger tire and reach in for 3 of them on the passenger side.
No need to remove anything on my truck to get to them.
1/4" drive 4 to 6 inch extension. Must be knurled. makes it easy to spin bolts out once loose.
Glow plugs:
10 and 11mm 1/4" drive deep 6 point sockets. Crack lose with the 10mm and use the 11mm with the knurled extension to spin them out.
Comfort:
old camper dinette cushion. lay it on the radiator and grille.
Step stools. at least 2 so you are not moving it from front to side everytime you move.
Fan. A good fan. preferably an old one. A breeze helps a ton when working for me.
Standard and deep 1/4" drive sockets with extra long and extra short 1/4" drive ratchets. I kneel by the passenger tire and reach in for 3 of them on the passenger side.
No need to remove anything on my truck to get to them.
1/4" drive 4 to 6 inch extension. Must be knurled. makes it easy to spin bolts out once loose.
Glow plugs:
10 and 11mm 1/4" drive deep 6 point sockets. Crack lose with the 10mm and use the 11mm with the knurled extension to spin them out.
Comfort:
old camper dinette cushion. lay it on the radiator and grille.
Step stools. at least 2 so you are not moving it from front to side everytime you move.
Fan. A good fan. preferably an old one. A breeze helps a ton when working for me.
What do you use for the injector bolts? The top ones seem to be covered and not allow socket access and a bit tight...at least in the E99...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 31
From: Northern Illinois
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf
https://16x1p531pcnxjpi9p2ewt95n-wpe...stallation.pdf
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
As explained in the Injector Hold Down Torque thread, the top bolts come out after the injector has been removed. Once the bottom bolt is out, the injector hold down clamp can be pushed up and slid out from under the top bolt. The top bolt is removed/installed when the injector is out, nothing special needed, although I did buy a deep six-point 1/4" socket just for this purpose.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
As explained in the Injector Hold Down Torque thread, the top bolts come out after the injector has been removed. Once the bottom bolt is out, the injector hold down clamp can be pushed up and slid out from under the top bolt. The top bolt is removed/installed when the injector is out, nothing special needed, although I did buy a deep six-point 1/4" socket just for this purpose.
Thanks for the info
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
Have you seen any of these threads? 
I believe that it should be removed, cleaned (or replaced), and re-torqued. Because if it does get loose, then you got to remove the injector to tighten it again. And because you can't check it with the injector installed.
But then again, I'm **** about stuff like this.
I believe that it should be removed, cleaned (or replaced), and re-torqued. Because if it does get loose, then you got to remove the injector to tighten it again. And because you can't check it with the injector installed.
But then again, I'm **** about stuff like this.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I see what you did there 
Actually, I did. But I also wasn't thinking about doing my injectors yet when I saw them.
My takeaway from that thread was the top doesn't need a "torque" as a hold down value, but as almost every bolt, even a brake part, has a torque...LOL.
My thoughts were then why remove the top bolt at all? If it's bottomed out, should be fine?
But if it is loose, no worries.
Assemble the top with locktite? But not the bottom, just torqued, is what I remember...
My energy level and ability to concentrate aren't at their peak, so I'm trying to go through everything now instead of trying to worry too much during the job.
Actually, I did. But I also wasn't thinking about doing my injectors yet when I saw them.
I believe that it should be removed, cleaned (or replaced), and re-torqued. Because if it does get loose, then you got to remove the injector to tighten it again. And because you can't check it with the injector installed.
My thoughts were then why remove the top bolt at all? If it's bottomed out, should be fine?
But if it is loose, no worries.
Assemble the top with locktite? But not the bottom, just torqued, is what I remember...
My energy level and ability to concentrate aren't at their peak, so I'm trying to go through everything now instead of trying to worry too much during the job.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
When I did my '97 years ago, I removed the top bolt first using a crows foot cause I didn't know any better and I hadn't found this forum yet. I figured it out after the first one, but I still removed all bolts, cleaned them off and re-installed. A simple cleaning on both the bolts and holes, and then re-installed to the factory specs. No Loctite. Never had any issues, but I only had it another 20-25k or so.
When I got my '99 and came over to this forum, I had read all of Rich's woes with his injectors, so I went full OCD on these when I had them out. Cleaned with acetone, used Loctite 243, proper torque during install, no re-torque, no issues.
When I had a smoke issue, after changing all the o-rings didn't fix it I decided for reman's, so on that re-install I replaced all the bolts as well, as it would've been their fourth installation. Been three years I think, no issues.
Being OCD will only cost you time, nitrile gloves, some chemicals and rags, and frustrate the guy helping you while he's watching you be you.
When I got my '99 and came over to this forum, I had read all of Rich's woes with his injectors, so I went full OCD on these when I had them out. Cleaned with acetone, used Loctite 243, proper torque during install, no re-torque, no issues.
When I had a smoke issue, after changing all the o-rings didn't fix it I decided for reman's, so on that re-install I replaced all the bolts as well, as it would've been their fourth installation. Been three years I think, no issues.
Being OCD will only cost you time, nitrile gloves, some chemicals and rags, and frustrate the guy helping you while he's watching you be you.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I used 1/4" 8mm socket, 3" extension, and ratchet for the hold down bolts. I was replacing cups too so I removed the oil spout, then the lower bolt, then the upper bolt. I slid the hold down plate up (toward the valley) and pried gently with a short prybar and the injectors popped right out.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I used 1/4" 8mm socket, 3" extension, and ratchet for the hold down bolts. I was replacing cups too so I removed the oil spout, then the lower bolt, then the upper bolt. I slid the hold down plate up (toward the valley) and pried gently with a short prybar and the injectors popped right out.
I was thinking about skipping the removal of the oil deflectors. No reason other than it shouldn't be necessary. If we run into a trouble injector, I'll pull it so we don't break it
Garage is cleaned up and prepped for the job. Truck limped into the garage and opened wide to cool off and give us a little break.
Oil trail from the tailpipe up the road, through the yard, down into the garage. Gotta love it
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 31
From: Northern Illinois
Just crack the bolt loose so it can move a little. Keeps you from prying on it. 5mm allen I think?