Not sure, but in converting my splitshots to single shots and 140/0 to 160/80, along with the full rebuild pretty much covers it all


Updates:

BTW, I changed the oil and filer, and filled the HPOP, then cranked it 25 secs 4 separate times with fair amount of cooling off time for the starter. Only the first time had the glowplugs on, I left the key on as the charger continued to charge...so no GP's dragging down on the batteries.

I can build 250 psi HPO on the ICP reading. I did NOT remove the ICP to fill the heads or anything.

The charger is on the batteries, the block heater is plugged in, new oil is topped off after cranking, HPOP is filled, and we are going to wait 2hrs or so before trying again.

Oil should be warmed up, batteries should have a good amount of charge in them.

I use a 100 amp boost charger when cranking. My 200 amp boost had the mechanical timer puke the other day. It's really stiff, maybe the cold, maybe it's toast? Still charges, just can't leave it alone on the timer until I work something else out there.

I'll also load the new tune from Tony before cranking this time, since it is getting closer to proper pressure to release the fuel and engage the injectors

 

Updates:

Think I know why the 100 amp starter/boost wasn't enough. Starter is dying.

It won't engage every time I hit the key. Maybe after a second or two. Maybe on the 2 or 3 tries. Maybe after I tap the starter and solenoid underneath....so far.

I swapped the starter relay under that dash # 307 with the Trailer tow solenoid #305, no difference It really seemed like the relay might not be engaging. Now I figure it is the solenoid on the starter itself.

I've been avoiding the Cody test because I'm not setup for it. Maybe first I'll remove the ICP and pour oil directly in the rail if it is not full. If so, I may or may not pull a plug and do the same on the passenger side.

The 100 amp charger/starter only goes to about 12.x volts when charging. Piece of junk.

My 200 amp charger/starter is from the early 90's and has been used and abused extensively on all kinds of equipment. I can't fault it for anything.

I just bought a Schumacher SE-4020, but after putting it together, found out the 40 amp automatic charging setting....is NOT a charge, but a "boost" setting. Charging is only up to 6 amps (!) Yeah, it will be going back. Even with the 200 amp starter option, 6 amps doesn't do much of anything for me

But we DID get the interior cleaned up

4:1 ratio of water to white vinegar in a spray bottle after shop vac'd. Let it sit 15 minutes, then shop vac while still wet.

Then ran the ozone generator about 15 mins, then turned on the front and rear fans and ran ozone another 5 mins. Turned it all off and let it sit 15 mins, then opened all the doors, windows, and rear hatch to air out about half hour or so.

Still have to use leather conditioner and see how that goes, but 1000% improvement!

Small victories on the battlefield

 

I'm spoken for tomorrow but let's see what comes next. If I can get an STC to npt fitting it would be the dream come true for the Cody test. And I do have a good starter sitting out there.

 

I looked after our discussion the other day for Female STC fittings, but didn't get very far.

I sure hope you are successful

Thanks!

 

Mark, check out this website: Adapters | Eaton PowerSource

 

Thanks John, good site. I also have a hydraulics shop here at home,
it looks like it should be available.

 

Ex, I have a full HPOP testing setup you're welcome to borrow. Guages, STC fittings, IPR Block off.

I can ship it to you.

I also burned up a starter trying to get my truck running

 

Wow, I have been seriously considering rebuilding my injectors but you guys are giving me second thoughts with these start up issues.

Isn't there a pre-start up guide or something to make this go smoother?

 

Way, WAY more people have had trouble free injector installs than those that have had problems.

 

Nothing official that I know of. I don't think Ford intended to have shadetree mechanics taking money out of their pockets and doing it themselves...but luckily there are a lot of crafty people out there willing to figure out how to keep the money in their pocket instead.

That's reassuring. I'm closing in on going for startup soon and am dreading it. I've sunk enough time and money into this process and there's not much more left for contingency (including my wife's patience).

 

I have had good luck putting the battery charger on a little while before I started cranking. I actually had one start accidentally on me I thought i was in my "no start" position and was not. You could always pull a manual truck with the key off to prime then turn on the key and pull start If you had low batteries.

 

So is the problem rooted in not having high enough oil pressure in the fuel system?
Does the HPOP lose it's prime or something?

Sorry for all the questions but I am anticipating having to do all this in the near future.

 

A very kind offer I sent you a PM. If this next move (Cody test) isn't helpful/successful, I'll get with you

Thanks!

 

I have reman injectors and had help with their installation. Probably both are going to be fine, but things I didn't get eyes on.

It's also possible, but also unlikely, that I have an internal turbo leak.

But it seems that one of those 3 unlikely options is probably true. So down the road of troubles and shooting we go

At this point I am believing I passed the "should be firing by now" point, so instead of continuing to crank and such, I am moving to testing. Once I test, I can either rule certain things out, or narrow down the problem and go from there.

 

Same here. But this time seemed to be a huge draw, couldn't figure out why. Now that the starter is dying, I know why.