What do you think of the shiny Mishimoto drags bottles?

 

As long as it doesn't leak and keeps cool I love it. I guess I will have to keep the top polished up now!

 

She looks purdy!

 

Can someone point me to some resources for the AC fixes that were mentioned in this thread? pretty please?

- 7.3 Fan Clutch
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Fan..._p/6502213.htm
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...an-clutch.html

- high idle upfitter switch
- ball valve water cutoff inline on heater hoses

thanks,
mike

 

High idle mod: Howto: 05-06 High Idle (AIC/SEIC/BCP) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Don't know about the clutch.

The AC I did in my 2000. I don't remember where the link is anymore but you can probably find it in the SD sub forum. If I remember right it was a Ford Range shut off valve. You run a vacuum line to it from the white cab HVAC vacuum line. The valve gets spliced into the heater core in/out lines. Pretty straight forward.

EDIT: You may also want to check your air gap on the A/C clutch. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13187218

 

The high idle on your 2005 is easy as there is a wire already there in the OBD-II port bundle that you wire to a switch.
The fan clutch mod switches from the 6.0 computer controlled clutch to a temperature controlled wireless clutch from a 1997 7.3 Powerstroke. I bought a Murray clutch. I bought mine from O'Reilly's so I get a lifetime warranty. You will also need a 6.0 to 7.3 fan clutch adapter nut from BulletProofDiesel. It adapts the 6.0 water pump threads to the 7.3 fan clutch threads. You will get much better cooling with it over the 6.0 clutch that kicks in at odd times and not over 45mph. I drove it hard today and the truck never ran cooler. I did not do the heater core shutoff valve because I don't know the correct procedure.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-3-4-...itting/3851791 will look like this,goes in heater hose to stop water unless you can test your current vacuum operated shutoff to make sure no water going thru.

 

Pretty sure that's my problem. I will look into it, I really only use my heater about one month a year.

 

Never ran so cool...I am stoked to see how she pulls the boat Monday. I was running almost 210 ECT at 70mph when it was 79 degrees outside. The ECT/EOT delta levels off at 5-6 degrees, it was not leveled out in the photo. Much better!

 

Monster-4, SmackDaddy, Wedge542 - Thank You.

I have confirmed based on behavior that my truck is already handling the high-idle scenarios appropriately so I think i'm OK there.
The heater valve cut-off is interesting and I may look further into that.
I'm not sure I know enough about the clutch switch to know if that is a contributing factor for me. Knee jerk reaction tells me I need to look somewhere else.
I'll start a new thread for any A/C issues that I run into.

mike

<Hijack complete>

 

Hello. Coincidentally, I'm doing this on my truck straight away.

Here's the parts I already have, but now I realize I don't have everything I need, also things I didn't know/think about.

I have the Mishimoto rad, ALL radiator and heater hoses, motocraft parts on everything other than the Radiator, degas bottle (okay, that's not cuz it wasn't available on amazon), water pump, thermostat.

What I DONT have, are the fumoto valves which I didn't think about, or the heater core. Also, the tubing off the valves. I didn't know anything about the 7.3 fan clutch upgrade, but I do have my high idle mod installed. How much and how difficult is the clutch upgrade? I already bought the 6.0 clutch... but maybe it's worth it to upgrade?

The thing is I'm on a time crunch, so if I can't get these parts locally or quick, it may just have to be a future upgrade.

But what are the part numbers or links to the tutorials on those upgrades? Fumoto valve part numbers specific to our trucks?

I also have a leaking A/C compressor (which is whining anyway) and leaking power steering pump. Should I just go ahead and replace all those why it's opened up?