Now, that winter is coming I'm going to flush my cooling system. In the past I would just drain the radiator, fill with radiator cleaner (one bottle) and clean water drive it around the block than drain radiator again. I would do this several time untill the water comes out looking clean. The problem with this method is it take a lot of time. I know there are plugs on the block to drain the water from the engine but they look really rusted and frozen I'm afraid I will brake something. Does anyone know of a quicker or easier way to flush the cooling system. I also. plan on using the new anti-freeze made by Texico called Dex-cool it orange in color and they claim will help the water pump seals last longer.

Kurt 92 4.0 Ext-body
Loveland, Ohio

 

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Yes there are block drains on both sides of the engine. The first time I drained it using the passenger side drain plug. The next time it was frozen and I just removed the lower radiator hose in addition to the radiator's drain. The section of the owners book dealing with coolant change recommends loosening the lower radiator hose in addition to the radiator drain and doesn't mention the engine block drains by the way.
Most of the coolant will come out using this method.

 

Before changing brands of coolant you need to check your owners manual, dealer, or local trustworthy shop. I believe you will find it is a no no to change to Dexacool. A better solution would be the addition of a good brand of antirust to reg.type antifreeze. Malco is my favorite.

 

Thanks all for your help,

The Texaco Havoline web site has imformation on Dex-cool they claim it has a much longer service and corrosion life than regular Anti-freeze.

"Havoline Extended Life Anti-freeze/Coolant DEX-cool is manufactured from ethylene glycol and an highly effective long term corrosion inhibitor package based on carbozylate technology. This inhibitor system eliminates the need for silicates, phosphates, borates. nitrites, nitrates and amine additives traditionally used for this purpose. The repacement of these inhibitors is significant for water pump life because many of these conventional inhibitors have been shown to be abrasive to water pump seals. In comarison field tests with conventional coolants in taxi fleets, Havoline Extended Life Anti-freeze/Coolant DEX-COOL significantly reduced the need to replace water pumps during the 100,000 mile test."

The above paragraph is from Texaco web site. They also, said that DEX-COOL is a univeral engine coolant which can be used in all automotive service and ASTM D 4985 for heavy duty diesel service. It is now the standard coolant for tha Corvette. I have been using it in my motorcycle now for the last year with no problems I have had water pump seal fail on the bike before using this new coolant. So I'm hoping I'll get a little insurance with seal life with this new Anti-freeze. Anything to extended the life of a water pump seal is all rigth with me.

kurt

 

Kurt, I have used Havoline's Extended-Life Coolant with Dex-Cool in my '87 Aerostar XLT for over two years now, with absolutley (sp?) no problems. The key is completely flushing all of the old coolant out of the system. I have installed a simple Prestone flushing tee in the heater hose near the airbox. With the engine running, radiator open and heater on, at it's highest speed, it should only take about ten minutes to completely flush the system. (This is after draining the radiator and disposing properly of all the old coolant) I refill the system with 25% Havoline coolant, the rest with distilled water, and a bottle of Red Line's "Water Wetter" (which is an excellent product, more on that later). Here in Sacramento, California, where summer temps can hover around 105-110 degrees at times, I have not had any overheating problems with my Aerostar. Another tip: I insulated my heater hoses with inexpensive foam pipe insulation that you can get at any home improvement store. Cut to length, and secure with nylon straps. This helps cut down on underhood heat, and makes your heater work faster and more effeciantly (sp?) in colder temps. My Aerostar's heater is toasty warm, almost too "HOT" since I did this! Finally, flush your cooling system once a year, whether it needs it or not, and you will be fine. Usually, in the spring or fall time change is an easy way to do it. ED
PS Insulating your heater hoses does basically the same thing, and results, as insulating your hot water tank/heater in your home! If you or anyone else has any ideas or questions on this topic, post here, or e-mail me at XBROWNSX(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Can someone tell me where the engine coolant drain plugs are for the 4.0 v6 are? I have a 1995 AWD.

 

"Does anyone know of a quicker or easier way to flush the cooling system...."

Place a flushing "T" in the heater hose line. There are kits available for this. It allows you to connect a garden hose to the the "T" and back flush both radiator and heater core. Add the flush solution and circulate it, hook up the hose, remove the radiator cap, leave the heater selector on hot, and just let it flow out the top of the radiator until clear.

 

> . . . and just let it flow out the top of the radiator until clear.

How do you get solids (sediment, detritus, flakes) out using that method?

I'd also want to backflush the heater core(s), because they tend to be filters for the cooling system, and can plug up somewhat, depending upon your coolant maintenance.

Backflush the heater core by removing both of its hoses (from the engine end) and using a garden hose on the ends alternately. Around here, this is the wrong time of year to be doing this:* , because you tend to get wet.

Always use distilled water (not "drinking water" or "spring water") for your coolant mix and battery top-off.

Regards,
Al S.

 

When it is clear there is no "detritus"-this is a backflush. It is simpler to use on an annual basis. With your method of unhooking the hoses at the engine side there is additional cost in replacing o-ring/spacer/connector kits each time.

 

You might want to check those hoses real good. Mine on my 93 4.0 AWD did not leak yet, but there was a soft spot on the heater hose to the water pump.That is where theytend to pop. Grease and heat in that area are hard on hoses. I replaced the front heater and radiator hoses. I will do the auxiliary ones in the spring. They looked ok but with the years they are due.

 

>When it is clear there is no "detritus"-this is a backflush.

If there is no detritus, why would you backflush? A regular rinse-drain-repeat cycle will change out clear/clean coolant. Backflushing is specifically to loosen and get into the water stream the corrsion flakes and other lodged particles that have settled or somehow "stuck" in some crevice.

If you have corrosion flakes or sand, they're not going to just float up from the bottom of the radiator, and it's hard to get high enough water flow to get them out the top, by just sticking a hose in the radiator fill -- sure, you can get a lot of water to spray around, but it's not moving fast enough down at the bottom where the junk settles, to carry it to the top.

Removing the lower rad hose is, IMO, the only decent way of insuring that heavy debris can get out of the system.

>With your method of
>unhooking the hoses at the engine side there is additional
>cost in replacing o-ring/spacer/connector kits each time.

No, I disconnect the heater hoses from the engine end. A whole lot easier to access than the heater core end, and no special connectors

You can get a really good flow of water in both directions through the heater core with just a disconnected heater hose and a garden hose.

Regards,
Al S.

 

:-staun I suppose if you've managed to get sand into your cooling system you would need a more vigorous flush than normal.

 

 

>I suppose if you've managed to get sand into your
>cooling system you would need a more vigorous flush than
>normal.

No, it's normal for cooling systems to contain some loose solids after being in operation for a while. These solids often aren't "floatable", hence the need to let gravity help ("##### Flows Downhill").

(somewhat later)

Oh, that's interesting. Online censorship of blue words. Let's see it filter this out: "Sheeeet Flows Downhill"

Regards,
Al S.