Alright guys, I have been researching on here looking at the Tech Folder and doing searches on this and I got this far...got the all aluminum Mishimoto radiator, Motorcraft upper and lower radiator hoses, Motorcraft thermostat, Y hose that goes from engine to degas bottle and heater core (was leaking at the plastic "Y"), Murray water pump, 1997 7.3 Murray fan clutch, BPD fan clutch adapter for 6.0 to 7.3, Motorcraft v-groove belt, lots of distilled water, 4 gallons of Rotella ELC concentrate and Fumoto valves for oil pan, both block plugs and radiator. Is there ANYTHING else I need to look at or do while I am in there and have access? I am going to do the flush first and install the fumoto valves on the block plug holes so it will be faster and easier to drain both sides (especially the passenger side one behind the starter). My oil cooler is very new and my delta is no more than 8 degrees even when towing so it is not clogged and I have already been running the BPD coolant filter for 2,000 miles and two filter changes. I want to back flush the oil cooler through the cap under the turbo so I don't clog it with debris I break loose. Should I do the full flush with VC-9 or Restore and Restore+ or just straight distilled water? What about flushing the heater core? I want to do everything right so I can continue upgrades on brakes, 4-5" lift springs, 35's etc. Let me know anything else I should do to get this done correctly and knock out anything else while I have these parts out of the way.

 

Hmm, 80 views and no help...I will figure it out, thanks guys.

 

You might get a little more traction in the 6.0 Forum.

 

Agreed.

Stewart

 

I wouldn't use chemicals, just flush it with distilled water.

 

Sorry about that, still kind of a noob here! Thanks for moving it.
Yeah I think I'm keeping the flush simple and just flushing without chemicals so I'm not causing issues with my oil cooler. I am still backflushing the oil cooler after the regular flush.

 

No worries. Even us regular old timers will sometimes post in a forum that is probably a good second choice, but not the first, ya know?

Stewart

 

That fan clutch will help alot,ive run on last two 6.0s, add you a high idle upfitter switch and youll have the coldest ac even if sitting all day in the sun ideling.

 

Just the high idle mod with a toggle switch? I have an unused toggke ready to go. Thanks, my AC sucks because the truck is dark green.

 

Add a ball valve water cutoff inline heater hoses,about half on road today bad or seaping vacuum valves not stopping water and ac fighting with the heater,mine was bad on two trucks,dropped ac temp 8deg by just adding a ball valve shutoff,dropped another 8 adding 7.3 clutch and high idel mod ideling, cant stay in truck now on reg ac and high let alone on max cool.If your systems up to par dryer,exp valve,full freon,clean condensor youll like the change.Results may vary but what ive seen.

 

Send a photo or link to this, I need all the help I can get!

 

You're on track with the distilled water flush / no chemicals if you're not replacing oil cooler. No sense inviting trouble by stirring things up.

 

Got the passenger side Fumoto drain valve in, I think the 90 degree fitting would have worked better but this is good.





Access through the fender well to remove starter and install valve.



Driver's side is easier from underneath.





This is what came out of the block drains on the first and second flush with straight distilled water. There was no more in the next 4 flushes. I have been running a Dieselsite coolant filter for about 3,500 miles and two filter changes.



Casting sand? It's gritty.

 

Day 1: I got the high idle mod done before the flush so I could get her up to temperature without driving. Those Fumoto drain valves are a life saver. I could drain the block while it was hot no problem. Flushed 6 times with 24 gallons of distilled water and the last flush was clear.
Day 2: I got the radiator and fan off and while I was underneath I noticed a small power steering leak on the high pressure line so I opted to go buy a new power steering pump and high pressure line since it would be much easier to access while I was in there replacing everything else. Everything came off and went back on fairly easy. The fan clutch nut was pretty tough but I got it off with a big crescent. The rental fan clutch tool kit did not fit the nut so I just used an 18" crescent and long 1/2" extension to hold the pulley. Nine hours later I have a new Mishimoto radiator, Murray water pump, Motorcraft thermostat, 7.3 fan clutch upgrade, hoses etc. I noticed a small crack in the degas bottle so I guess I will be replacing that next but it's good for now. I drove it hard this morning and noticed much cooler temperatures and my AC kicks ***! I am anxious to see how she runs while towing Monday when I go pick my boat up.
18 hours give or take to do a straight water flush and replace my cooling system and power steering pump. Faster than I expected working alone!

 

Stripped down!



Water pump, belt, thermostat, power steering pump and high pressure line installed. Ready to go back together.



I wish I would have noticed the little crack in the degas bottle before I got it all back on but I can replace that later. It's not leaking yet, I will just clean the area and put a little epoxy on it for now.



Out with the 6.0 fan clutch, on with the 7.3. It is not loud at all, I guess the guys complaining that this clutch makes the fan roar all the time are not running a 4" straight exhaust.





Buttoned up and looking clean!