I have read the thread pertaining to flushing the coolent on my 2004 F350 6.0L Powerstroke, instead of doing all of the flushing from radiator/engine block/ and heater core, could you just drain the radiator and flush a couple of times that will run through the whole system. Before doing the Restore+ or VC-9 drain then fill with distelled water then run, drain, refill a couple of times then run either Restore+ or VC-9, then flush then refill 50/50 and run like normal, or should I just drain radiator/engine block and heater core to be on the safe side?

 

Here you go https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-101-a.html this is in the tech folder by the way.

 

I am currently (and I mean at this very moment) in the process of flushing my coolant system in preparation for an Oil cooler/EGR cooler install (and other upgrades).

I opted to only drain the radiator and forgo the engine drain plugs, but added in several extra flushes to get all the coolant out of the block. I also removed the thermostat to avoid all the extra driving and warm up time. I installed a coolant filter last week, but have bypassed it for this flush.

I drained the system from the radiator and refilled with hose water. I have a water softener on the house and I added a culligan RV filter in line with the hose for added protection. Drained and repeated that procedure three times. I refilled with 1/2 gallon of Restore and distilled water and am currently running it at 1300 RPMS in the driveway for the next hour with the heater on full (neighbors got to love that).

When that completes, I'll drain and flush 3-4 times to evacuate the Restore from the system. Then repeat the procedure with the Restore plus. After the system is flushed (I have ph strips to test for a 7.0ph level to ensure the majority of the agents are gone) I plan on leaving the system with distilled water for the next day until I tear it down for the upgrades the beginning of next week. When the work is gone I'll be refilling with Premium Gold coolant.

-Eric

 

I was amazed at just how much coolant came out of the block drain plugs....

 

Well I'll be draining from the radiator, just like vectrex is doing. Of course I'll have the truck on a down ward incline for draining, also take the lower hose off once all of the radiator is drained.

 

I installed fumoto drain plugs for both block drains. The *%$# that I am getting out of the block is unbelievable. I started with restor and flushed 30+ times to get clean water out then I used restor plus and flushed at least 50 times and still could not get clear water out so did my heads and had the radiator rodded and it was approx 30% plugged, replaced heater core, oil cooler, water pump, all new hoses, also coolant filter. I have been flushing since getting the truck started and after approx. six flushes I can now see thru the yellow water to the bottom of the buckets. What a pain in the you know what. Will keep flushing until clear. But I do think you need to drain the block.That is just my opinion.

 

I was on the fence about the block drains, but don't have the valves and am not really keen on removing the starter. Maybe I'll try to get the drivers side off when draining this Restore run. I just wasn't content with taking a coolant shower.

With proper flushing, is there really THAT much sediment that can rest in the block? I would hope that it would mix and flush if there is proper circulation in the cooling system and an aggressive flush routine. This is my first flush, so I have NO experience with this and am speculating. If anyone has any basis for comparison, I'd like to know if the extra effort is really neccessary for a comprehensive flush.

EDIT: Is there any local places that sell the valves?

-Eric

 

You might find some locally. Depends on where you live. This was my first experiance with flushing a 6.0 and it has been a pain. The valves make it very easy to drain. I use ones with the nipples and ran tubing down to the same spot to catch the water. With this set up I can drain the radiator and block in about ten minutes and I don't where any of it.

 

Don't worry, I'm wearing enough for both of us. I decided to drain the drivers side block since I could get to it without issue. Had to destroy a 5/16 allen wrench to make a socket for it, but oh well. I didn't see anything really different coming from the block than what was coming from the radiator, but it probably helped dilute the Restore by providing an extra gallon of fluid trapped in the cooling system. The fluid is now like slightly cloudy water after three distilled water flushes after the Restore run. Not sure how clean I need to get the flushes since I'm going in with Restore plus next and will need to go through with this process again.

As far as the valves, I'll finish with this flush, order the valves and install them next time I flush since I need to get going on the cooler install ASAP.


Sorry JonArmy, didn't mean to hijack your thread.

-Eric

 

Quick question:

Where is the best place to get those and what size are they?? http://www.qwikvalve.com/Size-Chart.html

So you ran regular Restore for a full flushing cycle and then did Restore +? What is the difference between the regular vs. the plus?

What have been your results?

 

A google search provided me with several links for the valves, including through amazon. I haven't purchased them yet.

The difference between the Restore and Restore plus is the type of treatment they provide (silicate gel vs rust etc ). Here's more technical information:

http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf

I'll be finishing up with the restore plus flush today, so I can post a picture of the resulting flushes if it's of any interest to anyone.

-Eric

 

F108N is the size and I found them on the internet for 52 for a pair from Lubrication Specialist, LLC. Restor is like Simple Green HD and Restore Plus is like VC-9 from ford. I have gotten a lot of %$^&(sand and flakes of ?) out of the block drains and from the radiator drains. I plan on flushing some more today and will put in CAT-EC1.

 

I did Have to pull the starter to install the one but I installed the tubing on it and brought it down to one point with the other block drain and even with the engine hot I can reach over the starter and open the drain the other side is wide open. I drain the radiator first though.

 

Fumoto Oil Drain Valve F108N

This is the cheapest I could find and his price is a dollar more than I paid now.

 

The very best flush I have found is Arm and Hammer Washing Soda, mixed with a paint mixer in a 5 gal pail of warm water, if there is any sign of oil residue, add a little Dawn dish soap. Dump the fluid in the pail into another container to add to the engine. You can do it every day after driving to and from work dump it when you get home and keep redoing it till everything is clean. It will remove the scale and rust and sediment. Restore is a great product, pricey.
You can look online and see oil coolers plugged using the recommended coolant Personally I never use something that fails continually.
I was involved when Nal-cool first came out, and saw the results in 3406's and I added it to my wife's 93 Caprice it has the original rad in it. Dex-cool, Nal-cool, Power-cool is what 90% of class eights use as original equipment coolant. Works for me.