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Replacing the return lines in my 91' F350 IDI. In doing so I noted 2 things that led me to ask you guys for help.
1. Apparently 1/2 the return lines had been replaced in the past because half have the new style caps with 1/4" hose and the other half has old style caps with the smaller 3/16 hose. I assume that switching to the new caps and 1/4" lines is simply a direct replacement. Right or wrong? If wrong what should I do?
2. From reviewing all other threads on this line replacement I was also surprise to note that the #1 injector was set up differently from the others. It appeared to have an extension on the top and a plastic protective sleeve.
a. Why the different setup on #1
b. Can the extension just be unscrewed to remove the return line cap and then screw it back on with no special treatment or must the threads be sealed, etc. (Picture below) I had the thought that the extension and sleeve could just be eliminated entirely. (Probably a bad thought)
Thats a timing adapter. Yes its the same thread as the injectors, no resealing. You can replace the #1 line with one from a van, as its normal (timing adapter was on #4 on a van). The lines need to be the same length, so getting rid of it is a bad idea.
BTW - as I am finishing up I began to wonder how I was going to bleed the air at the injectors. I have a Banks Turbo and the relocated glow plug relay sits almost on top of #7 and #8 is covered by part of the turbo. Any suggestions on this one to save my starter motor?
Guess I have researched too much. Seems like every time people are talking about air intrusion, replacing the return lines and caps, etc. there are always suggestions about bleeding the air out of the system by cracking the fuel lines at the injectors then closing one by one and using the bleed valve on the fuel filter etc. etc.
So - just hook everything back up and crank away until it starts . . . . thanks.
even when i have to bleed a dry system to get the engine started, i do not have to bleed each injector line. i usually only crack two lines on each side.
once the engine fires the unopened lines will self bleed in a few seconds.
As I attempted to remove the supply to the #1 injector, the steel line appeared to want to turn with the cap! Thinking that the line flair may have been "rusted" to the cap, I sprayed the cap liberally with PB blaster and let it sit. I intend to refresh the PB blaster several times over the next 24 hours before trying again.
When I do try, I intend to put another 5/8 wrench on the timing extender while attempting to loosen the cap.
Does this sound like the way to go or is there some other trick?
Also, if things go the way everything else has on this project (broken glow plug connectors, etc., I expect the line to crimp/snap/split/leak based on the way it feels. So, where does on find a replacement fuel line (in advance)?
Have to laugh. My truck seems to have every "common" ailment found in the 7.3 IDI . . . air intrusion, broken glow plug connectors, sticky IP, etc. . . Curse of the newbie.
Thanks again guys. Its great to know a bunch of experts willing to share with the less fortunate.
As I attempted to remove the supply to the #1 injector, the steel line appeared to want to turn with the cap! Thinking that the line flair may have been "rusted" to the cap, I sprayed the cap liberally with PB blaster and let it sit. I intend to refresh the PB blaster several times over the next 24 hours before trying again.
When I do try, I intend to put another 5/8 wrench on the timing extender while attempting to loosen the cap.
Does this sound like the way to go or is there some other trick?
Also, if things go the way everything else has on this project (broken glow plug connectors, etc., I expect the line to crimp/snap/split/leak based on the way it feels. So, where does on find a replacement fuel line (in advance)?
Have to laugh. My truck seems to have every "common" ailment found in the 7.3 IDI . . . air intrusion, broken glow plug connectors, sticky IP, etc. . . Curse of the newbie.
Thanks again guys. Its great to know a bunch of experts willing to share with the less fortunate.
I know this is an old thread, but a good one. Just wondering what the outcome was of your switch?
I'm going to do the same thing, PB blaster to loosen the top caps. Mine is a van and my timing cap is on the #4 injector.
I also have the situation where the rear injectors already had work done and the lines replaced, but not all of them. I'm planning to do them all.
My front injectors are leaking real bad and causing starting problems. When I tried to wrench the injector caps loose in the front they were very tight.
I didn't know what to do with that extention on the #4 injector but this info helps here.
Missing an o-ring to complete my injector drain cans. New orings are larger than older ones. One side fit tight, leaks fixed on passenger side. But My #1 injector bolt is leaking on top. I wrenched it down. Any suggestions? just take it off and put it back on? It's leaking on top, not the can. the drain can is secure.
Full throttle while cranking and the leaks are apparent rather quickly.
Take the line off and check to see if its cracked where the nut holds it down. May also be cross threaded, and if you're lucky can be put on straight and reseal.
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My truck seems to have every "common" ailment found in the 7.3 IDI . . . air intrusion, broken glow plug connectors, sticky IP, etc. . . Curse of the newbie.
