I am going to try and replace the injectors in my '86 F-250 with a 6.9L in it. I have not bought the injectors yet so I was wondering about suggestions on brand and then how to take the old ones how and how to install the new ones. Is it a tough job or can just any old shade tree mechanic do it. Any tips and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Here is my standard blurb....

Injectors are easy, remove the line cap nuts, gently move the line away sufficient to remove the return lines/caps as a set per side, then using a 1" socket "DO NOT BEND STEEL LINES" unscrew the injector(s). Remove the copper seal if left in the base of the bore.

If major amounts of carbon are found or difficulty in removal of inj or gp place the cylinder at TDC. Clean the inj bore but do not dump carbon into the cylinders, remove the GPs and use a vacuum to clean/suck debris out through either hole.

Send injectors out for pressure testing at a local shop or just buy new ones, also get a return line kit which consists of hose, clamps, orings, copper seals and new injector caps from one of several advertisers here.

Installation is reverse, "DO NOT DAMAGE THE NOZZLE TIPS" you can put the "new kit orings" on the injectors but they come with some on already. To replace useing vaseline or??, roll the first oring into first groove, roll second over it to lower groove trying not to cut them. Put the new copper seal on injector tip, I hold it in place with antisieze, antisieze the body slightly and do the threads, torque to 35 ftlbs, book says twice?. Install the new caps and line "sets" made up "by you" identical to removed sets, use more vaseline inside caps, press down on cap (tops) until they seat into place. Connect the line caps torque is 22 ftlbs.

Now would of course be a good time to replace the IP too as your 75% there.

If you do not replace the IP starting should be no problem as fuel is at the end of the lines already and several cranks will fill injectors.

If you will replace IP, I would replace the fuel filter a few days prior. The driving would allow the system to have removed all air from that change before introducing more with the pump change and line removal.

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Orings and return lines and caps only...

Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

Return line kits can be obtained from an FTE sponsor I suppose ??? or the links below.

http://www.mwfi.com/Dieselpage.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/