When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a stock 1994 F350 7.3L IDI w/turbo, 152k miles, because it has the stock turbo the crossover line goes from injector 5-6 in front of the turbo
a few years back I paid a friend to do the return lines to fix a leaking cap and the kit he bought was for non turbo so he didn't replace a couple of caps, you get what you pay for,
last year #7 and then 5 started leaking pretty good, I had a strong smell in the cab at stop lights and an 8" puddle on the ground when I would park it.
Before the temps hit 100 next month I thought I'd try to tackle it.
I did 1-3-5-7 and thought I had success, when I fired it up the crossover clamp was leaking pretty heavy, it was a different type of hose (not braided on the outside). I tried to snip the end and attach it but the end just mangles up, no problem just disconnect at #6 and run a new piece of hose, the hose clamp is exactly under two injector lines.
looking more closely it looks like #4 and #6 have an o-ring coming out the top (although it's not leaking at all), now I'm at the point of taking the advice everyone else gets and just doing them all again and be done with it.
Could O-rings really work themselves out the top or did somebody really do a poor job installing them?
I've google and searched about this and I understand I can use a non-turbo setup but just not certain how to run the crossover line,
I've found this kit for the turbo, it has the single deadhead and two triple caps https://oregonfuelinjection.com/shop...-3l-fac-turbo/
but it would be nice to be able to get the non-turbo one from Napa and be able to finish it tomorrow instead of next week.
Also, can I disconnect the supply lines at the pump without much consequence? is it the same as just disconnecting at the injector (screw off/screw on), it would make it much easier to have those hard lines out of the way
How did you get the o-ring above the cap? that's crazy. There is no way that came out of the cap. My guess is the PO mistakenly had a ring rest on top of the cap, then he tightened the injector line down.
Return lines are low pressure. You can pretty much use whatever you want to recap them, and it's a rather easy process in a truck. I recommend just getting a new set, like from
or https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,e-250,7.3l+445cid+v8+diesel,1114388,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+hose+repair+kit,11219 regardless of if they are "NA" or "Turbo-rated." I honestly don't know what's the difference. The return lines can run any which way so you can redesign them if you want. As long as they have a path back to the tank, you are good. Hypermax had me redesign my return lines because if I kept them stock, the rear return line would run close to the turbo, and something at 1000 deg F will likely damage the fuel line. So maybe that's the difference.
You should just get the non-turbo one from NAPA and make it work. As long as you don't have fuel hose next to your turbo, you should be fine.
If I were you, I wouldn't fiddle with the lines at the pump. If you undo all the injector lines, it's a huge hassle to get those bottom two lines back in tightened down. I just did a video of that from the confines of my van:
If I were you, I would just undo the four lines on one side of the engine, then lift them up, and pull the caps off. There should be enough room to pull them up to get the caps off. I did it a while ago. It's not a tough thing.
I hope that o-ring was just put there to apply a bit of extra pressure to the cap, helping it to stay seated. That trick has been mentioned a few times on return line leak threads.
However, with the proper o-rings and caps without burrs/cracks, that extra pressure should not be necessary.
I hope that o-ring was just put there to apply a bit of extra pressure to the cap, helping it to stay seated. That trick has been mentioned a few times on return line leak threads.
However, with the proper o-rings and caps without burrs/cracks, that extra pressure should not be necessary.
That was my thoughts also when I read it last night. I seem to remember a thread where the copper washers were also used
between the caps for more pressure.
These return line caps sure are a PITA for a lot of people.
all the injectors on that side had an o-ring up under the cap, I guess they were trying to get an extra seal on it,
Success! it's done and no more leaks, that crossover line was difficult to get connected and I broke my turbo pressure gauge hose, it was about 20 yrs old and very brittle,
If I ever have to do it again I think I'll ditch the factory crossover and run an extra long cross,
Thank you to everyone who contributes and have posted previously in other threads, without the internet and all the posts I probably would not have attempted this,
Thank you to everyone who contributes and have posted previously in other threads, without the internet and all the posts I probably would not have attempted this,
that's how it all starts. First you are cautiously dabbling in some easy fixes on your IDI, then you are doing engine swaps and customization. IDI Addiction is a serious problem. Race for the cure.
If I were you, I wouldn't fiddle with the lines at the pump. If you undo all the injector lines, it's a huge hassle to get those bottom two lines back in tightened down. I just did a video of that from the confines of my van:
On a van, maby it's a hassle. On a truck... not so much.
You have to do it from the bottom up and install the lines one-by-one(you don't install them as a set). As long as you get both ends finger tight of any given line before tightening it down, it should be in the right orientation(more or less) so you can install the vibration dampeners on it at the end.
For replacing the IP, I:
1. remove all 3/4 vibration dampeners from the lines
2. starting with the top 4(on the IP side), remove those lines completely. Orient them on a table, so you know which end goes to the IP(optional: mark with the cylinder it came from - they only go back one way, though).
3. Remove the next two(left and right, just above the bottom two), then remove the bottom two lines last.
4. Remove the fuel supply line from the IP and filter head, remove it.
5. Pull the front cover plate off the front of the IP gear cover(two bolts). Remove the 3 5/16-12pt bolts from the front of the IP gear
6. Loosen/remove the 3 nuts on the back side of the IP gear cover - if you can't get one off completely, loosen all 3, pull the IP back a bit, then remove the nuts.
7. Install new IP in reverse. Make sure to grease up the O-ring on the IP body where it slides into the IP gear cover, and rotate the IP shaft such that the notch in it lines up with the pin in the IP gear.
8. Re-tighten the 3 nuts, pushing in on the IP as needed until it's seated. Align the IP mark-to-mark and tighten the 3 nuts down.
9. Install the 3 bolts on the front, the front cover, and then start installing lines from the bottom up. Fully tighten the IP side, leave the injector side 1/4 turn loose.
10. Once all lines are installed, install vibration dampeners again.
11. To bleed the new IP, crank with all lines 1/4 turn loose at the injector and the throttle floored(key on) until you see fuel coming out of at least 6 lines with no bubbles.
12. Tighten down all 8 lines at the injector, attempt to start the truck.
BTW, my trick for injector O-rings is wheel bearing grease(high temp). Works amazingly well at preventing future leaks, including when you disturb or move caps in the future. I've had perfect luck with it, including doing things I shouldn't, like swapping injectors and re-using the old O-rings(if they were only a couple years old).
Just use a thin film on the inside of the plastic return cap, and a bit on the O-ring when you install it, and it works a treat.
I also use the absolute cheapest return kits from Ebay; Pensacola diesel or DCP... and they work just fine for me, because of what I do with the O-rings.
Oh, and remember, the O-rings are Viton, so grease doesn't affect them at all.
BTW, my trick for injector O-rings is wheel bearing grease(high temp). Works amazingly well at preventing future leaks, including when you disturb or move caps in the future. I've had perfect luck with it, including doing things I shouldn't, like swapping injectors and re-using the old O-rings(if they were only a couple years old).
Just use a thin film on the in.
I agree with this too. I use wheel bearing grease on my o-rings, and they almost never leak. Thin film works great.
The only reason why I've changed my caps and seals so much in the last five years is because when I rebuild or do a major job, I figure while its all apart, I might as well get these caps changed in the van bay. It's much easier to change them out then, than to have a diesel leak while I'm on a roadtrip or up in the middle of nowhere.
so after temporary success I'm fighting the return lines again, I drove it about 50 miles with no problems then discovered # 4 & 6 leaking, decided to buy the recommended orings and try again,
4&6 are now dry but #2 is leaking pretty good,
I put the new orings on it with a pretty good film of axle grease, it still leaked,
then another set of orings, still leaked
then, It originally had the 90 degree corner fitting so I changed it to a left over 180 degree fitting and changed orings again, had very minor "moisture" appeared out the bottom, thought I could live with that but after about a 10 mile run it was leaking heavy out the top,
I think it's leaking from the top of the return line cap at the bottom of the fuel line nut,
Buy a new return line set for a new cap?
just keep changing orings until one set works?
use copper washers on top of the return cap to apply more pressure?
try to stick an oring on top of the cap as the previous person had done?
If you buy Dipaco caps and hose that injection shops stock you shouldn't have any leak problems, it's the best quality. Never had a cap leak problem using engine oil or chassis grease. I've even moved the caps enough to change all the hose without replacing caps or O-rings and no leaks later. Make sure you've snapped the caps down all the way
It's kind of hit or miss with this poor design. I've tried different brands from every place I could including the dipaco, every set it the same, leak free after installing then after a few months they start sweating and by a year they're leaking. I'll 're oring what I can but I think it's just about time to bite the bullet on those solid billet rails from Justin/r&d. Unfortunately they're not cheap, orings are but I've had very mixed results
Maybe the caps are out of round?
I installed a cheap ((bwd) borg warner) kit on my return lines 8 years ago and everything is still dry as a bone.
Looks like now they are stocking Delphi brand, and it may be of lesser quality?
Here is a link to the kit I bought at a local parts store listed on amazon, I recognize the straight through caps, green clamps, and braided line, whatever brand they are calling it here or there.
Only ever had one small leak, but it was my fault for twisting and maneuvering the line from the filter base. Just picked up a 2 dollar pack of 0-rings at lowes and she's sealed just fine again.
Take care to make sure you cut the hoses the exact length so that they are not pressing outward or pulling on the caps.
Proper installation will have be nuetural and rest easy on each injector, in this case my caps don't require a shim to keep them pressed down.
Take your time and go one to the next, push 2 clamps onto a section of hose, put on caps loosely and measure accurately just short of the gap between the ends of the hose barbs, press first down rotating for positive seat, slide clamps out to the barb, repeat one at a time around the motor, a decent cheap kit and very careful installation should solve the problem.
after another afternoon of changing caps (to an old cap) and orings (2x) I think this may be fixed, I've driven it about 250 miles over two weeks and not even a seep of moisture, hopefully it stays that way,
Thanks again to everyone for their contributions on this thread and the many years worth before that I read as reference material,
