Hello group,

I bought my 2000 7.3L Ex as salvage back in 2005. It had been through a driver side rollover and the seller had restored it. We lived in North Idaho then. But I remember I always had an issue with the check engine light being on. I don't remember what the codes said, but many mechanics read them and determined that nothing was wrong. Many surmised that someone had put a high performance chip in the computer and that was what was causing the check engine light to come on. All of them reset the computer and every time it would come back on.

Fast forward to now and we have had to move back to Southern California, where we are from (mother with dementia and Alzheimer's). So I need to get the Ex registered in California but I can't pass the smog requirement (yes, there is one for my year) when the check engine light is on. I know, I tried today.

Does anyone have a suggestion for what I should do so I can pass the stinkin' California smog check? (NO, I am not happy to be back, can you tell?)

Should I replace the computer?

Thank you in advance!

 

We will need to know what the exact code(s) are that are triggering the check engine light to give any valid advice. Also listing what engine you have will help too.
Once the exact code is known you really should attempt to troubleshoot whatever is throwing that code first, then move on from there. It could be something as random as a broken electrical connector or pinched wire from the earlier rollover.

 

OK, I will do that. It's a 7.3L Powerstroke

 

I had a similar problem with my 2000 7.3l and the code aaid it was the #4 glow plug. However there is an electrical plug behind the power point on the front dash, well there is actually 2 plugs. I switched the 2 accidentally but it made my rear defroster work (it didn't before) and fixed the check engine light. The problem is you have to take the dash almost completely off to do it. I was replacing the lights on my speedometer so it was just a happy accident. Don't know if it will help you but it is cheap and worth a try.

 

As Tom said, knowing the exact code will help with this immensely. Keep in mind most part store freebie check machines won't pull every nitty gritty code, but it is worth a shot. Most of them will pull something, just not EVERYthing. There's a variety of scan tools and programs you can opt to use yourself, I personally favor the ScanGauge ii, a lot of others use the Torque Pro app and a Bluetooth dongle for the OBDII port. Do some advanced searches in the 7.3 forum (click on the Search up top, it drops down with a search bar and there's the advanced search option below that - rest is self explanatory).

Mine has smog-exempt stickers all over it from the factory, but I know California swings on a different orbit with vehicle related things.

 

That's pretty interesting! Smog exempt? Where are the stickers?

 

Spread out along the core support and radiator beauty flap thingamajig. Mine didn't even have a catalytic converter leaving the plant (non-catalyst on sticker)... Has the GPCM and all that other jazz, just no emission requirements.

 

Ya, mine never had a CC either. Sorry what is GPCM? I'm acronym deficient. But I don't know that I have seen a sticker.

On a unrelated note, how do you get all that stuff under the line? Stay Puft etc?

 

Not smog exempt meaning you don't have to pass a test to register it in CA , exempt from needing a catalytic converter.

If it was chipped back in the day the computer actually has a new chipped burned and put in the computer. ypu would either need a new cpu or have your reflashed to a factory program.

 

By reflashed do you mean reset? I think the smog shop did that and the check engine went away, but I have had that done before and it keeps coming back on.

 

No

Smog shop cleared the codes.

Reflashed means a new program or operating system is downloaded onto the chip.

 

If I recall there were both piggy back and replacement chips as the whole tunner era developed.

Find your computer down by the parking brake and see if it has a super chips emblem on it.

The first ones were inside. You may have to unscrew the cover and the chip itself will have a superchip sticker on it

 

I do not recall the exact removal and uninstall procedure for that gold superch, but I seem to recall just unplugging it.

First see if that is what it is, if so call superchip for the correct procedure

 

Ok, I will take a gander...

 

Keep us posted