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Yahiko,
Thank you for the video -- something else I was unaware of about electrical systems. I think my shock with Rusty was 200vAC which really had me confused. I see now he probably meant 200 milivolts -- but again, I wasn't aware that you could get an ac reading -- but it is called an alternator -- I guess for a very practical reason.
Thank you.
Doug
My meter was set on a 750v AC scale and the reading was 230.0+ when it cycled up, so yes, 230VAC. You can see it in this thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...batteries.html Benny made a post from Mercedes that discusses ripple (or AC) current in the charging system. According to that, the only way to accurately see the value is with a scope. I guess the problem with using a multi-meter is the design of its circuitry as far as if it's averaging or RMS by design. If you watch the video I posted my meter has a simulated analog bar along the bottom of the screen and what thats reading generally makes more sense than the numbers. Clearly the numbers are not right. I don't have my head completely wrapped around what is happening with this but I do believe my alternator is failing.
Holy mackerel! That is mind boggling -- and entirely confusing to us laymen. I guess that shows something is wrong but I have no clue -- just what I needed -- to know that there is more I don't know about things I thought I knew something about. Geez.
I am going to check out that thread.
Well, turbo lag is still there -- very drive able but nothing to brag about out of the hole, for sure. Fuel mileage is still lower than it used to be -- was around 18.1 before all of the work and trip yesterday was 16.388 -- OK but not great.
I know my speedo is off -- it says 72, truck actual is 76 by GPS. The trip was 4 hours and basically I was holding it pretty steady at 78 MPH. It showed 258 miles on the factory trip odometer when I filled it up today. So I added 15 miles and called it 273 miles -- 16.65 gallons. I know the speedo is off as a result of the wheels and tires I have on it -- new style King Ranch wheels with LT 275X65 R 20 Goodyear Wranglers (Kevlar, no less). Remember this is a 2004 Excursion (early 2004).
I am having the FICM flashed (and whatever else can be) Wednesday -- I wonder if they can correct that while they are "in there?"
Today I finished the battery positive and the ground upgrades written about by toomanytoys. I also did the alternator to battery with a fuse upgrade as well. It was a real pain getting the ground bolt into the 12 mm bolt hole in the block just above the stator mounting bolt. You can get about 1/16 of a turn with an open end wrench and then flip it and get just a tiny bit. Once it is almost all the way in you can then get a boxed end in there which goes a little faster. I didn't do any measurements before and after but I can tell you that it spins the motor faster -- it starts much quicker.
I also checked the EBP sensor and tube last week -- good there.
Today at the suggestion of someone a few posts ago -- I can't seem to find it right this minute -- I pulled the hose off of the MAP sensor at the manifold. The end was very hard and brittle. I cut about 1/2 inch off. I was also instructed to push a piece of trimmer string into the little port on the manifold where the hose attaches. The hole was closed off -- but it was soft stuff -- kind of gunky -- I can't figure out why it was sitting there like that -- perhaps it doesn't draw or push air through the hose -- which would make no sense to me -- basically it doesn't do anything??? So the nipple is clean and the hose looked like it may have had a little "gunk" on the walls but basically wide open. So how do I tell if the MAP sensor is working properly or not? I guess if not the truck wouldn't run (well) or at all?
You ain't alone. I have some basic E training and still don't understand how it could read like that. Maybe a few volts but not a few hundred and definitely not with the engine off. It kinda blew my understanding of how things work, that's why I posted the videos.
The map sensor hose doesn't really move any significant amount of air, it just couples the sensor to the manifold so it can read the pressure. You can watch it with what ever device you have to work with. The expected value depends on what unit of measure your device reads (pis, in/hg, or whatever).
This might help clear some things up and muddy others.
DMM's do a conversion from analog to digital by sampling.
Sampling rate is just one of the things that go into what your
going to see as far as numbers go. Then there is the algorithm.
The MAP should be equal to EPB/BARO with KOEO.... around 14.7psi. Once the truck is running, EBP/MAP should be about 2-3 higher than BARO and increase with throttle.
Randy,
Thank you, that is helpful. I just bought a ScanGauge II but haven't had time to install it yet. I assume that information is available in that instrument? I understand with no MAP sensor the truck has zero power -- will run, no power. If the MAP sensor itself is gunky inside -- since the hose had some gunk in it -- how would a less than perfect MAP sensor perform?
I am going to Google and search the forum to see what I can find.
Thanks,
Doug
OK, ScanGauge II installed. Everything seems fine EXCEPT I cannot get a reading of any kind on the EBP. No data comes up. I have gone over the string of numbers you have to enter no less than 4 times. Any ideas? KOEO MAP is 14.6, ICP voltage .24, IPR 14.8, FMP 48.5-49, TFC 0.08.
KOE idling; ICP 641, IPR 20.7, ICP VOLT .92, MAP 14.7, and then there is this odd one -- VGT 14/15 (sort of a hollow sound) -- then 55/70/85 (can hear turbo whistle).
At 2,000 rpms ICP around 1600 more or less -- at 3400 rpms about 3800 PSI -- is that about right? Max boost 27 to 28.4 PSI.
No matter what I do, NO EBP. Please comment on these numbers, ask questions, whatever -- I appreciate and welcome the feedback/insight.
The links below could explain you EBP readings. Some have said they got a zero, some got a blank value. Bottom line is its normal (if you have this strategy) and I wouldn't sweat it. The other reading look pretty normal to me but I would have like to seen a little higher ICP at 3400 rpm.
For info on inferred EBP strategy, use the search "Recall 06E17".
______________
Rusty,
Thanks for the help. The link just gets me "page not found." Not sure where to go with that. I will search the code.
What should the ICP be -- I was looking as it shifted -- should it be over 4000 -- close to 5000?
WOW! That's a lot of information -- some of it applies to other questions I have -- like the exhaust "smoke test" -- I would like to make sure some of the faint ticking I hear isn't coming from a tiny exhaust leak -- but I quickly read the link and saw answers to other thoughts I have -- thanks.
Doug
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