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Hello everyone,
I have a thread started about head gaskets or new crate engine -- if anyone wants background on this issue. The long and short of it right now is really bad turbo lag, poor fuel mileage (compared to pre engine work), low power under 1200 rpms (or there about) etc.
Once the work was done I picked up my truck and before I got out of the parking lot I could tell it was a dog. Technician (independent garage but Senior Master Ford Technician plaques on the wall) said just drive it for a couple of days -- if something is wrong, bring it back. Took it back FICM bad. New FICM, left -- to me it was worse except once it hit 1600 rpms (or so) it would flat scream! Took it back because the low rpm power and turbo lag was so bad if I could see a car coming, I could not pull out.
I asked technician, "Is this FICM for a 2003/2004 or a late 2004? Turns out it was for a late 2004. He swapped it out (claims the parts people mixed up his order (entirely possible) and I left after we road tested it. It was better but still not right -- same complaints -- low power, long spool up time, low fuel mileage -- motor just didn't sound "even." Not a miss but something.
Took it back he said #6 intermittent firing. Fixed it and it was much better -- still not right but it only lasted less than 75 miles. Now it seems to be getting worse.
I have a mini max chip thingy that I generally run on "No Power" as it seems a little more responsive that way. On any power setting it is a beast after 1200 rpms or so. Still have to watch pulling out in traffic.
Did something get damaged when that wrong FICM was in it? Any sensors -- the injectors -- PCM -- anything or should I just let it go as a non-issue?
The batteries are year and a half old but I have not taken them out to be tested. Voltage shows 13.1 or 13.2 on my mini max -- never higher. Loading up with everything it does not come over 12.9 even at 1500 or 2000 rpms. The alternator has a rebuilt sticker on it but not much else except the numbers A0162F -- I cannot find any information on this. I have ordered a 140 amp alternator which is due in the next day or so. Fuel filters just changed but made no difference.
Did the wrong FICM screw something up? Any thoughts, suggestions, or ideas?
Thanks everyone.
Doug
What work was done prior to the issue? It's unlikely the FICM damaged anything. There are only two basic models (4pin and 7pin) and they are interchangeable. There are many software versions with different behaviors but the biggest problem you're likely to have is a code for "software incompatibility" (I forget the number). The truck should crank and run reasonably well with any servicable FICM.
Full body off head gaskets, studs, HPOP, new glow plugs, I can't think of the name but all of the "oil pan gaskets, seals, etc.", egr delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler, Bulletproof clutch fan adapter, new Cam and crank position sensors, new lifters, etc.
The truck ran -- very poor performance but it did run. I guess if it wouldn't cause any electronic damage, then I'm OK.
Thank you,
Doug
im thinking you have something on the engine unplugged. Have you scanned for codes?
When I had it back the technician did scan it -- that's when he said #6 was intermittent. That was two weeks ago. I checked for codes through my mini max and it said something like an incomplete OBD test and a cooling fan code (now have an old school 7.3 clutch fan on it). The egr is plugged and the wires are simply carefully laid on top of the intake -- near where the egr valve was.
If you have any ideas, I would be pleased to check them out. Just to rule them out, I am going to have the batteries tested tomorrow (out of the vehicle). I have a 140 amp alternator coming Tuesday and a smaller pulley for it. Other than that, I am not sure which way to even look. If all checks out I will try to get it back to the technician by the end of the week. As much as I do not have confidence in the local dealer, perhaps it would be worth it to have them scan/diagnose it.
Thanks for offering some insight.
Doug
Any PowerStroke programmed FICM will start and run any other PowerStroke without damage. There are numerous Ford software revisions out there, with the latest versions known for the extreme turbo lag you are describing.
After you get that replacement alternator installed, if the issues continue we could always load a performance tune of your FICM. While we had it, we could even do a diagnostic on it if you wanted.
Enjoy your Memorial Day, but please stop and spend a moment remembering why we separate out this day.
Thanks, Ed. Following the battery check and alternator swap, the next thing on my list was sending the FICM and the lie-o-meter to you. I will follow up when I know more.
Doug
Low or slow boost could be caused by dirty/clogged EBP sensor or MAP sensor. You should make sure they are clean and plugged in. EGR delete normally plugs the intake and leaves the EGR in place. It needs it to determine fan speed and some other stuff.
You don't mention a tune to turn EGR off, it should have thrown a code. What year is the truck? 2003-2004 may not matter.
I'd also plug the EGR back in and leave it lay in the valley... if you have it.
Check all the CAC boots for cracks, tight clamps. Any strange noise when it's trying to build power?
Maybe you need a live data reading device/code reader so you can see what's happening instead of relying on the shop.
Your main voltage is low, new alternator for sure. Clean all the battery grounds where the attach to the frame and body to increase current flow. You need to be above 13.5v after glow plugs turn off.
Yahiko,
It may have been any FICM before we discovered the error. I was with him when he took that one back to the supplier and we made sure it was for the 2003/2004 6.0. Now is it possible that the one they gave us is for the E-series, I do not know. Would there be any difference? Perhaps the programing would be different? I cannot say. I could look at the FICM and see if there are any identifying numbers but I have no idea if that would tell us anything or not. Thank you for the question.
Doug
WatsonR,
I have a brand new EBP sensor and tube. I am nursing a severely pulled groin muscle but I am going to try to take the batteries out today and have them tested. The battery connections and cables at the battery end are all pristine. I have no idea about the other end. If I can pull the batteries and have them checked without making the groin muscle worse, I will change the EBP tube and sensor -- doesn't look like it would be too strenuous.
As far as the MAP sensor (which is plugged into the air cleaner tube, right?) I can make sure it is plugged in but I do not know how to be certain it is clean. I have all of the Ford shop manuals for that year -- is there an actual procedure to clean one?
The EGR valve -- I am pretty sure I still have it -- I will do as you suggest and leave it laying on the engine. Does it need to be grounded? I no longer have the factory electronic clutch fan on it -- it has the old style 7.3 clutch -- I used the adapter Bulletproof sells to do so.
The upper and lower CAC boots on the passenger side are new -- about 3 months old. All the clamps on both sides are new, too. I also torqued them to specs. There are no odd sounds -- turbo draws a lot of attention because of how loud it whistles (has 4 or 5 inch exhaust previous owner installed). Once it hits about 1200 (not exactly sure what RPMs) it pulls very strongly.
What is the current thinking on such a device to read codes? I understand that some devices don't read all of the codes or generalize codes -- not exactly sure how to say that -- but what is a good instrument that is also affordable? Does that come as part of a chip to replace the H&S mini max?
I have never seen above 13.2 at anytime on the "battery" setting on the mini max. I do not have other gauges at this time.
The truck has 110,000 miles on it.
The last piece of information is at idle it just doesn't sound right -- not a miss but sort of. It doesn't shake or stumble. If using very light throttle -- like driving through a parking lot at about 1,000 RPMs it becomes more noticeable -- you can feel that the engine isn't running smoothly. Again, not a full blown miss but "something". Is it possible that an injector isn't plugged in correctly or tightly? If it were a gas engine I would be checking the plug wires.
If anyone is interested the complete list of everything I had done can be found in a thread I started titled Blown head gaskets -- new crate engine instead? or something like that.
Maximum4x4,
Yes, exactly -- it is an H&S Mini Max. Their website shows it as being discontinued but I still see them advertised on other sites. I did go in and download the update and install it. It didn't seem to help this issue but it made it pull stronger once it got moving and really firmed up the shifts. I did disconnect it for a while but I don't remember there being much if any difference. I will disconnect it today after the batteries and see if I notice anything.
Thank you for the suggestion.
The FICM didn't hurt the truck unless it's not plugged in correctly, still won't hurt it, just runs like crap.
MAP is on the firewall, passenger side and the hose leads to the intake manifold.
If you have a new EBP and tube, don't change it.... and why you need a live data feed.
Scan Gauge reads data but not good codes. TRT30 will get you $50 off at Advance Auto, buy on line and do in store pickup. Program the x-gauges for 6.0 engine and then we can stop guessing.
Torque Pro is a good code reader, $40 for Android app and a ELM327 OBD device for bluetooth. Most guys run both, SG2 for daily, Torque for diagnostics.
With batteries out, clean the connections to frame rails and body mounts on the negative terminals.... where the grounds really count.
