Not sure if what you have is inline or a Flash tuner, sounds to me like you have a mash pot of strategies trying to run the engine. Any strategy will run the engine so I would question what is going on.

 

Randy,
Here is the poop on the batteries; Motorcraft Max batteries, 850 CCA. Passenger side tested at 12.2 volts, 712 CCA. Driver's side tested at 12.2 volts also, 779 CCA. I charged the passenger side and reinstalled it on the driver's side. I am now charging the battery that came out of the driver's side.
I took the EBP sensor off and it had no buildup in it. The tube was dirty looking inside but no soot buildup -- appeared basically wide open. Reinstalled it. I also hooked the EGR valve back up and snugly wedged it in the manifold area where it used to sit.
Obviously I did not know where the MAP sensor was -- I can check it but what am I looking for? I read the shop manual but all I could find was how to remove it -- nothing about testing, cleaning, etc.
Scan Gauge I assume is exactly what the name implies -- for scanning -- I assume it reads voltage, water and oil temps, boost, etc. I have no idea what it can do but I will take your word that it is what I should have.
The Torque Pro -- I have no idea where to get it but I assume it is an app or a download of some sort but where do I get an ELM327 device? I guess I can google it.
I don't think I can chance doing much more today (that pulled muscle is starting to make some noise) -- I did clean the body grounds off of the negative but I did not get to the engine or frame grounds -- another day.

 

John,
I do not know the difference between an inline or a flash tuner. I can change tunes on the fly -- other than that I don't know. I will disconnect it and see how it runs then and get back to you.
Doug

 

Randy and John,
Well, this has been interesting. The MAP sensor is plugged in and the hose is firmly attached at both ends. It really isn't even dirty on the outside -- must not get much dirt up there.

I charged the batteries and it feels considerably stronger. I unplugged the H$S mini max and to me it felt even stronger. The turbo lag is still there but much shorter and this time when it spooled up my tires started to spin -- twice! That's with no chip -- it has never pulled like that before!

I test drove it on my to pick up a Scan Gauge II at Advance Auto -- $48.00 discount, thank you Randy.

So I am thinking that the batteries were low, therefore I am pretty sure that the alternator with the smaller pulley is going to fix that. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow and I can install it Wednesday. My voltage is still only showing 13.1/13.2 but the new alternator should take care of that and I have new cables coming to do the extra ground modification and the alternator wire to battery upgrade and double cable between positive battery posts. I am sure you guys already know about it but toomanytoys has a thread and a video about battery cables to save the batteries -- or something like that -- I am doing those mods at the same time. Also I hope to pull all of the ground cables on the frame and engine and clean them and the frame/engine with sandpaper and put them back together.

I haven't driven it enough to say "All is good" but I can say "All is significantly better" -- very noticeable difference and different sound, too.

Thanks to you both. Now I just need to figure out this Scan Gauge and get it installed. One other question -- while I was under my truck yesterday -- on the driver's side of the engine, on the block itself, near the front of the engine, there were some wires/plug sticking out of the block -- a suppose it is a sensor of some kind but it look soaked with oil -- the light was poor under there but that's what it appeared to me. The engine is dry there now but part of the work they did was to reseal the bed plate so it could have gotten soaked in oil from that. My question is (with such a poor description) can you take an educated guess as to what it is and how should I check to see if it is bad/leaking. I am thinking it may be a cam position sensor but that is only a guess -- going to google it and see what I can find.
Thanks again,
Doug

 

Go to the Scan Gauge site or watch some You Tube videos to program the gauges for 6.0.

From the front of the truck left side of the harmonic balancer, lower on the block... that's the ground for passenger battery and frame to block.

Was the MAP nipple clear, where it plugs into the intake?

Glad to hear it's running better.

Use that code again at Advance and get you a 2005' upper alternator, it's a 140amp.

 

Randy,
I did not disturb the MAP sensor since I had no idea what I was looking for -- I still don't know -- I will watch some videos -- if I can find any. I guess I should pull off the hose at the manifold end and check to be sure the nipple isn't clogged?
I have watched dieseltechron's video on how to program the SG II for the 6.0 and printed the stuff off of the website -- haven't tried to set it up yet.
I ordered the exact same alternator from Auto Zone -- 140 Amp. Supposed to be here tomorrow. I may check the price at Advance with the code and simply return the other one if a better deal -- we'll see.
Thanks again.
Doug

 

Ed would be the one to tell us if there is a difference between the programming in a FICM for a van ve a truck.
I know that the E-series are detuned. What I am not sure of is if that is just PCM or is the FICM also has some
changes also. You can put any programed FICM into any vehicle and it will run. It may throw a DTC at you but
it will run.

On the new alternator you might want to install the smaller pulley to get power sooner at idle.
Here is a really good discussion on that topic. >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-replace.html
Well worth the time to read all the pages or to just skim over it to find the highlights.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

You mention that the truck doesn't sound "even" but not a miss... Could this be a bent push rod? What other symptoms would come along with this? I know push rod are easy to bend on install...

 

Yes, pull the hose off the manifold connection, using string trimmer line, Rheem the hole out. It may appear clean, don't assume it is. You could test the hose with pressure if you have the tools or replace it, cracks hide until pressure is applied... coined a new phrase.

MAP & EBP are used for Boost.

Unless the batteries can take and hold a charge, 12.2 is no good. A fully functional battery should present 12.65+ volts, recharge pretty fast with a 14v input. They need to be even to avoid one dragging down the other and discharge/charge rates need to be even. Replacing one normally results in a mismatched system, that's not great either.

Good batteries, alternator and wiring support good running motors.... your FICM will thank you.

That code works again and again. Just keep the cart to $150 or less, check out and shop again, again and again. 2 batteries and an alternator.... Saves you $150, that's like buy one get one free!

 

Randy

I recharged them yesterday and put them back in. They are 36 month free replacement (about a year and a half old) -- don't know how that would all work out -- if the dealer would see 12.2 with no dead cells as something that needed to be replaced. I hope they are still working properly.

I checked the price difference on the alternator between Auto Zone that I bought and Advance Auto with the discount code -- Advance turns out to be $20.00 cheaper -- they are basically across the street from each other. If Auto zone will take theirs back (it is being delivered) then I will take it back and get the Advance one -- $20.00 is not a small amount.

I will pull the hose off of the MAP sensor at the intake and shove a piece of trimmer string in there. The hose looks brand new -- perhaps it is the old one but maybe they replaced it. Is there any magical inside size or length -- as long as it fits on both ends, is that OK?

The discount code worked on the Scan Gauge which was $160.00!

On another topic: The EBP sensor harness/plug runs from the sensor and then down the side of the block to the ???? Is that the Cam Position Sensor? When they put everything back together where the EBP sensor joins that harness going down -- they had the wires doubled back on themselves and crushed between a stud on the valve cover and the dipstick tube. Even I could see that was no good -- it was crushed so tightly that I couldn't unplug the connection right there -- I could unplug the sensor on top just fine but not the large connection with the red latch. I had to take the dipstick tube loose to release it. That couldn't have been helping anything!

I will see how the dust settles on everything -- the alternator will arrive today and I will check the Advance auto option. The smaller alternator pulley (58mm) will arrive today as well. So tomorrow the truck will have a new alternator with the smaller pulley -- then I will check the batteries for voltage again this weekend.

Thank you for staying with me on this.
Doug

 

Shaneb75,
Now that would make perfect sense. That likely would produce the kind of sound I am hearing. I had the push rods replaced when they did all of that work. The 6.0 push rods were a few thousandths too long (so it has been said) and the new ones are from a 6.4 which are supposed to be the right length.

That is exactly what that sound would be like.-- I have been thinking maybe a rocker arm was loose or something like that -- but a bent push rod -- I think you are on to something!

I assume that would require a visual inspection -- there would be no way to tell otherwise, would there? He would have to pull it down to the valve covers and whatever it takes to remove the push rods, then roll them to check for out of round. Back in the 70's when I used to drag race (street cars, not on the street) we would roll the push rods on a sheet of glass -- it would show pretty quickly if any were bent.
Thank you for mentioning that -- I have to have him check this out. If none are bent I will have to pay him for his labor -- any idea how long that would take? 4 hours? More? Less?
Thank you,
Doug

 

Yahiko,
I did order a 58 mm pulley -- should be here today. I am still reading that link -- I wish I had seen it before I ordered my new one but I still did fine -- I got the 140 Amp they are discussing early in the thread. I do not have any accessories added that draw -- no aftermarket amplifiers, speakers, no winch, no extra lights, etc. Should be fine.
Thanks,
Doug

 

To add to what Ed is saying and you're experiencing, ANY FICM will start, run, and drive any 6.0. However, with the different software revisions, sure they all speak the same language with the PCM, just different dialects.

What am I talking about?

Allow me to explain...

I had the same problem on my 2005 Excursion even with the Atlas 40. When I first picked up my truck from the dealership it had VXDB1MZ on the PCM and ARZ2AL11 on the FICM.

When I first loaded up the Atlas 40, I noticed less fuel economy, no change in throttle response, but strangely enough, more power (tons of black smoke caused by severe turbo lag). (same story with the stock ARZ2AL11 FICM) I loaded up the 2005-2007 version of the Atlas 40 thinking: "I have a 2005 Excursion with a 2005 engine, so I have 2005 programming" No, I absolutely do not....

I accidentally found this out because for grins, I loaded up the 2004 version of the Atlas 40 and voila! The power, the gasser-like throttle response, and eventually the fuel economy, were there. It is seriously impressive what the Atlas 40 does to either a stock or tuned truck and I couldn't be happier.

(Keep in mind, I NEVER got a code for a mismatched FICM either...)

Prior to this I was running AMZ2AL12 and unless I had a 2005-2007 Super Duty, it wasn't going to run as awesome as it should seeing as it and the PCM spoke the same language, just different dialects.

Bottom line, VXDB1MZ calls for ARZ2AL10 (2004 version of the latest FICM calibration and NOT ARZ2AL11 (2005+ latest FICM calibration).

The point I'm trying to make: Check your PCM strategy and see what you have. Based on that you can better match your FICM calibration to your PCM strategy and very possibly eliminate the lag and performance issues you're experiencing. You can use a locked SCT device to find your PCM strategy "under vehicle info". Once you do that, you'll be able to see what FICM calibration will play well with your PCM:

Early inductive heat:

2003 VXAXXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AH00
2004 VXBCXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AL00
2005+ VXCFXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AL01

Latest inductive heat

2003 VXAXXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AH10
2004 VXBCXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AL10
2005+ VXCFXXX PCM strategy = ARZ2AL11

Early non-inductive heat:

2003 VXAXXXX PCM strategy = AKZ2AH17 AKZ2AH19 (old and a long shot, but possible)
2004 VXBCXXX PCM strategy = AMZ2AL09 and AMZ2AL10
2005+ VXCFXXX PCM strategy = AMZ2AL10, AMZ2AL11, AMZ2AL12

Post Buzz Flash:

2003 VXAXXXX PCM strategy = APZ2AH00
2004+ VXBCXXX and VXCFXXX = APZ2AL01

 

After this post it may be a good post if forum members could give the different procedures / tools for how people could read their calibrations.

 

Toreador Diesel,

I can follow the logic in what you are saying -- makes perfect sense. As toomanytoys said, perhaps knowing how to find and what to with that information is crucial. Are these "codes" that are available only to the dealer's level of technology? How does an average 6.0 owner find this out? It sounds like exactly the kind of confusion I have suffered throughout this whole FICM journey. The truck wasn't like this before the FICM problem but remember, I had just had $9,000 worth of work done to the engine and a few days after I got it back is when we figured out the factory FICM was bad, then we got the wrong FICM, now presumably we have the right FICM on a truck that had major surgery and we really don't know if there are any issues as a result of that -- bad harness connections, damaged wires, and now the thought of bent push rods in on the table.

The first FICM going bad could not have happened at a worse time.

Thanks to all who contribute to this discussion.

Doug