Toreador Diesel (or anyone for that matter),
How does one do this?

"You can use a locked SCT device to find your PCM strategy "under vehicle info"."

What is a "locked SCT?" I will Google it and see what I find.

Thanks
Doug

 

Finding the PCM strategy is of course easy and can be done with most programmers like an SCT X3, SCT X4, SCT Livewire, Hypertech Hyperpac, etc.

The only devices I know that can read FICM calibrations are:

1. PHP FICM Tuner
2. Hypertech Hyperpac
3. Some versions of the IDS will tell you, but the later revisions just tell you if you need an update or not.

A "locked" SCT is a device that is "married" to a truck. In other words, it's been used to program a truck with a performance file and is "locked/married" to that truck until it's returned to stock. Regardless of this, it can still be used to pull codes and PCM info on another truck.

 

Toreador Diesel,
Well that clears things up quite a bit about how to get my hands on the information -- but then what do I do if they are not speaking the same dialect? Like someone from Connecticut and someone from Mississippi -- not meaning any disrespect to anyone. Armed with this knowledge where do I go or what do I do to make them compatible? If I sent both my FICM and my PCM to Ed at FICM Repair could he make sure they are compatible and do a tune upgrade? Is this a dealer only operation?
Thank you once again for being patient with all of my questions. In return, if I can offer you any insight into anxiety, depression, schizophrenia, etc. because those are the things I know about -- mental health stuff -- please feel free to ask away. Unfortunately I ask more people questions than ask me questions -- it always feels one-sided.

One last question -- if Ed does his magic with the FICM, is there really any need for a tuner? I know the answer is "depends on what you want your truck to do" but for me it is pulling an 8,000 pound boat a few times a year -- the most work it will ever do. I don't engage in street racing (but blowing the doors off of a Honda with a loud muffler is fun) so I don't need 500 hp. Anything north of 350 would be great but I like spending less on fuel, too.

Thanks,
Doug

 

Ed,
I was interested in what Toreador Diesel was discussing about the PCM strategy and the FICM strategy being on the same page as far as communicating effectively. Is that something you do? Can you ascertain that both units are good to go with each other or is that something I have to do elsewhere? If I have you set up my FICM with the Atlas 40 I think it is called -- is that my best option for occasional moderately heavy towing (8,000 pounds) 2 or 3 times a year for 200 miles each way and best fuel economy when not towing? I have a 4 or 5 inch exhaust (never measured it but I am not sure a grapefruit would plug it up), Raid filter system, a Bulletproof remote oil cooler (heavy duty one) ARP studs, new HPOP and a huge list of other stuff.
Thank you,
Doug

 

Ed works his magic on the FICM by upgrading the internal electrical components. Adding the Atlas 40 is just a nice added bonus.

It would be much easier to figure out what your PCM strategy is and then make sure the FICM communicates effectively. Ed can also flash you to basically any FICM Calibration required, so it would be relatively easy to resolve provided you had an issue with the FICM and PCM not speaking the same dialect.

 

We can tune a PCM to any revision desired, ditto with the FICM.

Many elect to pick up a daily driver more mild tune on the ECM (say 65hp) and then couple that with a FICM tune (most commonly the Atlas 40).

Hope this helps!



Ed

 

Only Ford can flash 3 at the same time and the only tuner on the market that can replicate this is the Diablo Sport Tuner. Once you know you have the right calibration in all 3, your truck should perform as intended. I would visit my nearest dealer...

 

I'm like John. If you have a tuned module that you can return to stock (PCM, TCM, FICM) then return them to stock via your tuner and take your truck to a dealer and have it flashed to get all the modules squared away and start again with your tuner. If you desire to have the FICM tuned do that AFTER you take it to the dealer. Ed can fix you up with that. At that point you can reinstall your tunes from your tuner and go.

To answer your earlier question about FICM tunes replacing PCM tunes the answer is NO. They do two different (but seemingly similar) things.

 

John and Tim,
It sounds like both of you are saying make sure the foundation is secure -- start from a level playing field by visiting the dealer. I really do not like the Ford dealer here in Wilmington, NC. I really liked the Ford dealer in Richmond Virginia -- they were people with great integrity. Here in Wilmington, not so much. When I bought my Excursion last September from a private party, he made it clear that he was good friends with one of the service writers and the service manager. I can show you invoices where work was done that really shouts many things but INTEGRITY is not one of them. Having said that, I will take it there and have this done. My question is exactly what words should I use to tell them what I want? I am afraid I will say something and get some or none of what I ask -- so exact wording would be very helpful. I can call tomorrow and get an appointment.
Thanks for your help.
Doug

 

OK, here is the recap of today's adventures. Installed the new 140 amp alternator and swapped the factory pulley for the 58 mm pulley. I changed out the banjo bolts and washers to banjo bolts and washers from a 6.4. Removed the frame ground on the driver's side and sanded the frame spot and both sides of the cable lug and did the same for the passenger's side. I also took the negative cable off of the block and cleaned the block and both sides of that massive lug. Put all of that back together. All of that took me about 3 hours -- I know that if I had to do this for a living I would probably starve taking that long. However, since I am not a mechanic, don't have a lift, and have to figure each step for everything, I am OK with that.
I took the CAC tube off of the driver's side to find the frame bolt that held the negative cable. Once I finished everything I drove it to Auto zone to return my core and get them to check my new alternator. 14.2 volts at an idle -- I am good with that. The mini max still only reads 13.2. Coming back home I stepped down on it -- no I stomped down on it and it was startling how it jumped (tuner is at "no power"). Made it about 30 yards and there was a sound from under the hood like a gun shot -- and it fell on its face. I forgot to torque the clamps on the CAC boots. The lower one blew off I found out back at home. Another 30 minutes and all good again. Then I washed the AirRaid filter and it is drying now.
I know that ideally you change one thing and see how much that improves things -- and then a second and so on. I have no idea where all of that power was hiding before but it is there now. Turbo lag is still there but better -- it will be interesting to see after I get the filter back in.

Doug

 

I recently worked on a 2004 F250 doing the same thing. He swore up an down that something was seriously wrong with his truck and he was going to have to sell it if I couldn't fix it.

It would buck while driving, stall at a traffic light, and sometimes couldn't decide what gear to be in.

The problem? Loose battery connections.

As soon as I cleaned them, tightened everything down, and went for a ride. It was a healthy 6.0 again and he as amazed.

 

Toreador Riesel,
Mine never did any of those things -- it just felt "weak." Now it does not. But it has some turbo lag -- better but not gone.
The other thing is it has some odd sound in the valve train. While I am not a mechanic, I did my fair share many years ago. I also was a long haul trucker for years and I am keenly aware when a sound changes or something feels different -- my life depended on it. I can say there is something ion the valve train that doesn't sound right -- a bent push rod is a good guess. It has new lifters and new push rods -- the problem is while that other FICM was in it I did a hard run getting onto the interstate and when it went to go into 3rd gear it was sort of like went into neutral for about 2 seconds and if it had been a gas engine, I would have said the valves floated for a second or two. I don't know if that can happen to a diesel, but ever since that event it has sounded odd. Any guesses? Push rod, lifter, rocker arm????
Doug

 

Doug do you have a Youtube account?
Make a video of it running and post the link here.

That way someone might be able to hear it and help
point you the right direction so your not tossing money at it.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Yahiko,
No YouTube account but I will fix that. Warranty with the work is 12 months 12,000 miles. I have an appointment for June 8th to have him tear it down to the valve train to check bridges, rocker arms, and pull the push rods and check for straight. I am not sure how to check for a bent valve or a lifter issue. Push rods and lifters all Ford new parts.
If he finds nothing, I have to pay for his labor. If he finds something he has to fix it no charge to me. I need peace of mind.
I hear a slight tapping that changes with rpm. It isn't supposed to be there.
I will keep everyone in the loop as to what we do or don't find.
Doug

 

Anyone,
Can someone help me, please?
I have no idea how to find out -- how many hours (book?) is correct to change all push rods?
Thank you,
Doug