When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Am I the only one that is a Hydra customer that is not satisfied with the velcro (hook and loop) mounting solution for the Hydra? I have scoured the internet trying to find something that would not only make the control panel look good mounted in the truck, but something that was functional as well.
I came across this piece for the DP Tuner chip, but it does not fit the Hydra. Too bad, because this is exactly what I am looking for.
Then I came across this, which might work but does not solve the ribbon cable problem/being visible for the Hydra.
I do know that if I cannot find something or I am informed of something I am happy with, then I will be building/creating something that looks good and is functional which hides the ribbon cable, but keeps the controller in plain sight and well within reach.
DP has a very nice set-up. It is unfortunate that PHP hasn't come up with something similar for their Hydra. I have the second set-up pictured for my DP. Mine was a beta version and Jody and Diane asked me to test it for them and give feedback. I always liked it, even when I accidentally had it mounted upside down...
I've searched through all my links for folks who make custom switch mounting bezels/frames, and more than half of them have either changed names or are now out of business. The ones which do work don;t seem to have anything which would fit what you have.
Post a picture of your switch with some dimensions, and I'll keep looking as well.
The measurements did not translate well in the pictures, but the exact numbers are below. Ideally I would like something that is flush mounted to the dash near the instrument cluster, but don't think I have the skills to build something for that application. I think what I will do is research the gauge pod mount like Jason tested out and see if I can paint and modify it to fit the Hydra. Then maybe get some 1" wire loom and paint it interior color for the short distance before it runs into the dash.
More to come, but details are everything in something like this. I can appreciate all of the hard work and effort that went into building the Hydra, that is why I don't want to just tape it to the dashboard. Seems a bit silly and rushed to me.
You can see it here at the bottom and facing to the rear of the switch.
Clearly this is not my picture because mine is in the garage where it is cold...
Again, not my picture, but same interior color and what not. You can see that the ribbon cable attaches to the bottom and points to the rear again. This is not how I would do it, but I understand that it works for most in this situation. I am a fanatic when it comes to details.
I am really leaning toward this one from DP, then painting and modifying it to work for the Hydra. I would mount it in a similar fashion with the gauge being in the corner of the pillar toward the side window, not toward the windshield.
I have the same F5 mount and the cable is hardly noticeable when routed straight back under the door jam weatherstrip. Not from driver position anyway. I'd paint the flat wire with a flexible black paint to help hide it. Flat like that you could even feed it thru a gauge hole and down inside, but you'll have some wear and tear on the wire on subsequent remove/install of the gauges. The position is ideal for visibility, hardly take you eyes off the road. I really wanted to keep the gauges and switcher invisible from the outside, but the practical usage from the driver seat won me over.
I haven't read every word in this thread, so I may be repeating something:
First - very clever logo for Gearhead - that's the first time I've seen it.
Second - I have this big square hole in my dash where a DP tuner bezel used to be, so I am anxiously awaiting somebody to come up with something. I know people have taken Dremels to either a DP bezel or the Hydra chip to successfully mate the two together.
Third - Bill has been very distracted with personal disasters, so I wouldn't expect research and development from the PHP empire. I'd poke Clay with a stick - this is right in his camp.
Most of the "custom" places I can find seem to only work with flat mount options. Below are a few links I've come across which might either offer some potential sources for you or spark your own creative imagination into your own creative solution.
Pete, thanks for the links. I have a couple of ideas that may or may not work in my head.
Rich, do you happen to know the rough size difference between the DP controller and the Hydra controller. Best I can tell is that the DP is slightly larger, which might work if I bought the bezel for the DP and then "modified" it to work for the Hydra.
The F6 EX Switcher mount is $15 which is not bad at all, but then the shipping is another $12-$18 when I am only an hour up the road from them though. I have a hard time paying more shipping charges than the item is with anything I buy, so getting the second choice of mounts for ~$30 does not sound very appealing at the moment. I would really like a flush dash mount/bezel and think I am going to end up creating something or modifying something in order to get it done.
Obviously (if ya know me ) this is an old pic, but this was before the current F5/F6 mount options and is what I came up with way back then. It's just a hole big enough for the cable to pass through and double-stick tape.
One of the reasons I have not used my Hydra chip is that I am not real satisfied with the mounting options. The cable hanging out in the open is a no-go for me. I would mount it in the same way that I had the F5, but I really want an easy way to unplug the switcher and remove it. The best feature of the Hydra is that it remains in whatever tune it was in when you remove the switcher. So, ideally I'd put it in no-start and yank the switcher when I was parking in high risk areas. (or 'valet' for the teenager ).
I'd like to see a mount with an integrated plug.
Meanwhile, there is this option that I am seriously considering... Seems especially cool with an Android-based head unit.
How much security is in the Bluetooth link? (I'll admit right up front that I'm not a Bluetooth user and am consequently not knowledgeable at all regarding that technology. I am, though highly cautious (suspicious) regarding the potential security weaknesses surrounding non-wired connections).
You can see it here at the bottom and facing to the rear of the switch. ........
See those little "slots"/vents in the dash just below the ribbon cable?
Make yourself one of those, with a dremel, right at the bottom of the switch, or maybe even up a little. Tuck the cable through there, and paint the tiny bit remaining out black, and you'll never really see it.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
) this is an old pic, but this was before the current F5/F6 mount options and is what I came up with way back then. It's just a hole big enough for the cable to pass through and double-stick tape.
).
