Hello! Been using this site for a lot of answers in the past but finally created an acct because the world crashed on me today (in terms of my truck..)

New truck to me. Fully Bulletproofed with receipts to show it. It has rebuilt motor and new tranny.

Took a 6x12 uhaul trailer up VA mountains to Wintergreen Resorts this weekend. 95% of the way there, the cap on degas bottle blows off. Coolant puked everywhere and kept boiling for a little while. It settled down, I had to keep going, so I took it light and made it up. Truck was turned off and would not start back. Filled with Coolant I could get at the only gas station on he resort (it was a one of the 50/50 ones compatible with any make/model crap...I had to get SOMETHING...). It then started but probably because it cooled down...not the coolant was filled. It is VERY cold up there...around 2 degrees F.

The next 3 days and 2 nights...it sat. Not plugged in (fail). I tried to start and ofcourse it would not. I have an EDGE CTS that read ECT to be 0 along with EOT. I got employee to open up a nearby condo so I can plug in for a few hrs. 3 hrs later it was up to 75 degrees F. It would not start (I had been trying periodically). I had jumper cables on due to Bat V being at 10.8ish. With the booster cables on, it went up to about 13.0. Problem I caught a bit late was that during my panic (we had to leave soon and it wouldn't start) I didn't notice that my FASS fuel pump wasn't turning on, so I was trying to start it with no fuel going to it (I guess..). I noticed it a bit late and saw that the fuse had blown (not sure why). I plugged in a piece of tiewire (totally bad but desperate) and it worked to start it. All of a sudden I see a DTC and it read to be P0069 and P0470, MAP/BARO sensor and EBP sensor respectively. I think maybe this was due to the coolant puke shorting out the sensor..? I don't know.

Anyways this is when all hell started to break loose. I was going down the mountain and noticed weird turbo sound. MAJOR flutter on pedal release. Also, during the inclines (very steep) the boost would surge like crazy. NOTE* my ECT would vary from 174-210. at 210 it started to smoke, I stopped and took the cap off and it "exploded" again. I had 2 gallons of coolant ready for this, so I filled up again. This weird turbo sound was very alarming. The cabin was filled with the surging sound (like hollow metal tube sound). Also, it kinda sounds like gravel in the turbo. A weird note would be that the sound would go away if I jerked the wheel and the truck would lean (create lateral G's). I thought that was very weird. I never blew white smoke. I noticed black smoke when I jam the pedal at idle (a mechanic was trying to help when I stopped at a gas station). It seems like pressure was not being released... EBP related? Hence the flutter, right? Ionno...

But now I get P0263 and P0275. FICM has consistent 48V (low of 46.5 for random spurts) My ECT seemed to be at 184 when running well. Does that mean my T-stat is all jacked up? Maybe the cooler never kicked in due to that and just boiled over?

Anyways...I am a AAA member so I drove (VERY SLOW AND AVOIDING BOOST) till I was within 100miles of my church and towed home with trailer ($$$$$). I am terribly regretful of a few things I had to do due to desperation, but what do you think I am facing here?

I have to work in 4 hrs...been on the road for 9 hrs today on what should have been a 3.5 hr trip. I am a bit frustrated but I am willing to learn! Please help me fix and/or help me prepare myself for misery...

I really appreciate this forum, thanks in advance.

Seong

 

Oh..and the freakin fuse housing for FASS Fuel pump melted due to my makeshift way to start it. I need to buy a new 30amp fuse and fuse housing for it...anyone know where I can get that?

i also need to know why it shorted in the first place...

 

Current mileage 187,500.

Modlist from previous owner:

upgrade and mods
-engine fully rebuilt by Powerstroke Enginuities at 179,000 miles
-bullet proofed (A1 headstuds)
-River City Diesel stage 2 cam
-fly cut pistons
-swamps 58v ficm with atlas 80 ficm tune
-rebuilt tranny with upgraded torque converter at 175,000 miles
-updated oil cooler
-upgraded push rods
-upgraded valve springs
-flo pro egr delete
-sinister fuel regulated return
-s&b cold air intake
-fass 220 titanium series fuel air separation systems
-4 inch turbo back flopro exhaust with 7 inch black tip
-new ipr valve
-dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced when engine rebuilt
-all new glow plugs and glow plug harnesses
-all new gaskets and hoses replaced when engine rebuilt
-SCT tuner with three cusotm tunes (MPT smokebomb, Quick Tricks looney wild, Truck Source Diesel super panty dropper) -leveled (3 inch in front and 1 1/2 inch in back)
-20x10 rockstar rims with 35 federal couragia
-kleinn HK2-1 black dual truck horn kit
-clarion double din radio
-55 watt HID headlights with high and low beam
-custom red LED lighting throughout the truck
-harley edition headlight housing
-custom painted black and candy apple red grill and tow hooks

 

That really sucks man but I know you know that already. Do glad you made it home and safe now so that you can rest and let the guys here figure this out. Hopefully your not looking at anything major to be dealt with here. I have no idea where to start or help but just wanted to send my regards. Hanging on for the ride to see the outcome of this incident.

 

Moved to 6.0 Power Stroke forum.

Good luck.

 

Well that is an adventure. 1st question i can come up with is the egr valve plugged in? Next when it puked what were the ect and eot temps? I would agree ebp shorted from puke----mine did the same. Gravel sound in turbo usually isn't good BUT wiith a bad ebp it can cause some weird stuff in that area--again mine did. Main thing now is stay calm, take things step by step and one thing at a time.

 

Post some pics of that bad boy. We realize it's not running but around here, it's family and we like drooling over other trucks, even when they don't run worth a crap.
We will do all we can to keep as much money in your bank as possible, there is a TON of knowledge here.
Don't sweat the other coolant for now, it was better than nothing, just not a long term fix.
You obviously have a late 04 or up as seen with the DP and SP fix. As KD mentioend, EBP will cause all sorts of issues if not working correctly.

I'm wondering a few things.
How many miles have you put on this truck/how long owned?

Did your ECT behave normally up to this point? Had you been monitoring? Acts like a tsat sticking shut and slamming open.

 

Not sure about the valve being plugged in...gotta check it out! And..gotta find out how to. I saw a few threads on that.

ECT was 210 when it boiled and started to steam. The ECT varies so much-> head gasket issue?? Im thinking the ECT T-stat is bad and never got the cooler to kick in..?

Which parts of the EBP did you change? Entire harness? Any pointers? Whered you find it all? Access sucks...

Thanks for reply!

 

Ok, one thing at a time.
EGR sits right at the top of the intake, front and center. One plug that goes to it. Just google 6.0 EGR valve it will be obvious what it is. EGR issues will affect cooling fan for sure. It sits right in front of the oil filter.

As for your EBP, probably looking at replacing this, likely shorted out.
Let's take our time and go from there. Many places for parts at steeper discounts as your local dealer.

 

I have put about 6,000 miles on it. Had it for 4 months now!

The ECT usually ran around 190 until it started to get cold, it started staying at 184ish. My daily commute is 35 HWY miles one way.



Here's a pic of my sad beast :/

 

What if the EGR was deleted? I thought it was...mannn i should have checked all this.

What are some places to buy stuff? Online? O'reillys?

 

Your EGR is likely deleted, this does not mean your valve is gone, rather it is just sitting there doing nothing. The EGR cooler would be missing, however many leave the valve in place to fool the PCM, and keeps the cooling fan happy.

Here is a great place to save money on OEM parts.
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories

I would suggest just taking a few hours to let others chime in. There are master techs and other brainiacs here on the 6.0 that will have good advice. Right now as KD mentioned, slow down and don't get in a rush to throw parts at the truck.

 

If it was me,, I'd be ditching the fuel pump and go OEM. I stand in a small group that doesn't like them tho.

Pull the 3/4" hose that is the return from the heater core (the long hose under the degas bottle and runs along the firewall), and crank the engine to verify coolant flow. It'd help to plug the port on the coolant y pipe to keep from sucking air. This can be done with two people (one to crank, preferably at the remote start wire) and use your finger to plug the port (it's gonna be messy).

Is it possible the coolant level was too high,, and the cap wasn't screwed on all the way from the beginning of the trip??

Coolant flow might not be the issue tho. I just re read and the highest temp you saw was 210???

 

Yep that's why I asked the temp. 210 is nothing especially towing. Top of head is tstat issue, bad cap,or too much coolant off the top of my bald noggin

 

Yeahh so 210 was about it. When it hit 210 i start to see the steam coming out, opened hood. Cracked the degas cap and coolant flooded out. Engine off ofcourse. It wasn't overfilled...if anything, it was a bit low. I actually put in almost 3 gallons when it first exploded.

I really think the T-STAT is bad...the EOT was consistently 190-195 until i started hitting grades and the boost started surging consistently. EOT went to 246ish and thats when I got scared and stopped for good. It held there for a little while going down on occasion. ECT changed very quickly and frequently..but no white smoke.

Thanks so much guys