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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Disaster Thread for 6.0

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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 10:57 AM
  #76  
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Oh shoot...I forgot I had just disconnected the connector on the top of the fan as I was reinstalling the T-stat! I attached, cleared the DTC and drove again for about 10 - 15 min. No DTCs now!

Now just a waiting game on my coolant flush. I bought restore and restore plus and will arrive tomorrow.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 11:36 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by skchoi2
How do I check if Water Pump and Clutch Fan is working properly??

Anyway to check oil cooler is working properly without removing it?

Thanks everyone!
A harsh sqeeling sound,higher temps, broken fins,bearing grinding sound,
Originally Posted by skchoi2
Update!

Truck runs fine now. But EOT got up to 203 slow and steady. Drove for about 20min. ECT stayed at 188-194 the whole time.

Now I have P0480 (Cooling Fan 1 control circuit malfunction) and P0528 (Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal).

Felt great to drive it though!
Yes EOT verses ECT no more tha 15 deg spread , if or not already plugged oil cooler when you use chemical flush will plug it, that's mainly right before a new install. I see you for got to hook the fan up so you can still monitor FSS , Fan speed sensor. Are you testing the head spread unloaded on flat road ( no hills) at 65 mph?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 03:19 AM
  #78  
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It's a bit late but here is the Ford Pigtail catalog.

http://www.fordparts.com/fileuploads...icationkit.pdf
Better later than never. I posted the link and uploaded the file as 2 PDFs.

Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by 04badford
A harsh sqeeling sound,higher temps, broken fins,bearing grinding sound,


Yes EOT verses ECT no more tha 15 deg spread , if or not already plugged oil cooler when you use chemical flush will plug it, that's mainly right before a new install. I see you for got to hook the fan up so you can still monitor FSS , Fan speed sensor. Are you testing the head spread unloaded on flat road ( no hills) at 65 mph?
Yeap, I need a new oil cooler i think...

Soooo

I was flushing coolant today.bdid the procedure with T-Stat removed. Had RESTORE in it with Water. Driving around town and highway for about 45min. The ECT was at 144 and EOT was 205. Got nervous and stopped. Opened up radiator cap and it started to hiss, sizzle and it puked when it got opened enough. I quickly closed it. It was white foamy stuff.

I took the plastic drain off from radiator and hazy white started to flow, it was steamy hot.

I guess I have an Oil Cooler that needs replacing...?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #80  
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Park the truck nose down hill over night and pull the egr valve, if blown EGR Cooler there should be coolant down in the Intake,oops just noticed no Valve in your picture, any white misty sweet smelling smoke out the tail pipe?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 12:58 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by 04badford
Park the truck nose down hill over night and pull the egr valve, if blown EGR Cooler there should be coolant down in the Intake,oops just noticed no Valve in your picture, any white misty sweet smelling smoke out the tail pipe?
Hey there, I have no white smoke coming from the tail pipe! I guess the tail pipe smell could be described as sweet...but then I also thing diesel itself smells sweet. I used to have BLACK smoke galore when EBP was messed up, but not anymore When I depress pedal on highway to get PSI up to about 28, there would be traces of smoke coming out, not white, but not a dark black smoke either, but that was before all of my nightmare.

i think I can manage oil cooler replacement, if necessary, ofcourse, but isn't the white smoke a headgasket issue...?? got me nervous! I heard that if you have an oil cooler clogged, doing the chemical flush will accentuate it, so I was thinking that that was what happened. But definitely have NO white smoke! Anything else I should look for?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 04:35 PM
  #82  
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Look in the tech folder and build yourself a cooling system pressure test rig. Drive it as described in the TECH FOLDER and report back with temp spread and cooling system pressures.

DO NOT do a cooler until you do the cooling system test!

ECT/EOT temps are not as critical if the EGR and cooler are deleted! SEE the TECH FOLDER.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:33 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Restlesswildman
Look in the tech folder and build yourself a cooling system pressure test rig. Drive it as described in the TECH FOLDER and report back with temp spread and cooling system pressures.

DO NOT do a cooler until you do the cooling system test!

ECT/EOT temps are not as critical if the EGR and cooler are deleted! SEE the TECH FOLDER.

I searched cooling system pressure and found nothing..!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 02:11 AM
  #84  
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The cap is rated at 16 PSI.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Feb 3, 2016 | 06:57 AM
  #85  
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Yeah I was at that Tech Folder before and dont see anything on a pressure rig. Google brought up a video of splicing on a few T's to the radiator lines. Is that what Yall are talking about? I still cant find the exact parts/sizes of tubing i need. I guess I can find out.

I need help though...is this really not oil cooler? I thought I was buying a bullet proofed truck..why are the head studs coming off..?!

Originally Posted by Yahiko
The cap is rated at 16 PSI.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Feb 3, 2016 | 07:19 AM
  #86  
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Nevermind..i found it in the "loss of coolant" post.

My system is currently empty of coolant, since it is just air, I will assume that I can go ahead and skip the vacuum test and go into pumping the system up to 15psi without pushing coolant into the cylinders.

My question at this point is are you guys saying that I may have oil cooler and head gasket issues? I thought the massive delta between ECT and EOT was a sure-fire oil cooler failure.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2016 | 08:52 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by skchoi2
Nevermind..i found it in the "loss of coolant" post.

My system is currently empty of coolant, since it is just air, I will assume that I can go ahead and skip the vacuum test and go into pumping the system up to 15psi without pushing coolant into the cylinders.

My question at this point is are you guys saying that I may have oil cooler and head gasket issues? I thought the massive delta between ECT and EOT was a sure-fire oil cooler failure.
I think one reason is the EGR Cooler is deleted , so the next in line would bee oil cooler or heads. Oil cooler being the easer of the two, when the EGR cooler pops it let's coolant flow into areas that's the same as blown heads, high temps, white misty smoke , the oil cooler when plugged won't let the coolant cool the oil causing high temps in result of EGR/ head failure, thus the reason to pressure test just to make sure it's not the heads and maybe the block off of the EGR cooler, are you with me?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2016 | 08:55 PM
  #88  
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Also coolant goes to the path of least resistance , being the Degus bottle and the 16 psi cap, puke and white residue all over
 
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 12:06 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by skchoi2
I need help though...is this really not oil cooler? I thought I was buying a bullet proofed truck..why are the head studs coming off..?!
"bullet proofing" is a term that can be used to describe a wide
variety of modifications. not all of them help engine longevity.

one red flag for me was the "tunes". you may notice if you stay
on here a while, there are a few people that come up, over and over.

ed@ficmrepair.com for ficm disorders
matt @ gearhead for good software.
dc power for alternators.
bulletproof diesel for various bits.
ARP studs.
stellite valve seats.

i've used all these guys, and it all works. i don't have cooling
issues, i don't have charging or ficm issues, i don't have lack
of power issues. i'm about +100 hp and +150 ft/lbs over stock.

van's got 80k since rebuild, and works flawlessly. at 175k now.
hopefully, it'll last for the rest of the time i need a van.... i'm
not putting much in the way of milage on it these days... work
has changed, and i got a new work vehicle, that i'm running the
wheels off of.... 2016 CTS-V. seven weeks, 8,500 miles.

so i'm not on here that much any more, as most of my life is spent
on the highway... but for what it's worth, this particular little forum
is the single best source of information on the 6.0 ford that exists
anywhere.

now, that CTS-V, it's not got the godzilla motor, it's got the ATS
twin turbo V-6, which got a tune from a guy in texas, and produces
500 RWHP, and cruises at 85 mph, getting 28 mpg.... so if you get
your badass tune loaded, and go out to humiliate some of the power
sedans, pride goeth before the fall.... top speed i've gotten from this
one so far is 171 mph... but i'm guessing low 180's is where it'll tap out.

not bad for a 4,000 lb car with a itty bitty v-6.....
 
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 03:41 AM
  #90  
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Still run the vacuum test step. I found a leak that would not
show with air pressure till it was HOT but showed right away
under vacuum.

When you say all air just how far down is the coolant? You may have
a leaking block drain plug. Look both sides of the block behind the starter
and the driver side just back from the engine mount you will see 2 hex
sockets. They most times are a bright zinc color.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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