Sorry..typo. Ihave 288k!

 

I read your mod list. It mentions nothing of injectors yet you have a cam and a larger than stock fuel system. So are we running stock injectors or modded ones?
Next missing piece is what turbo? Stock or modded?
Last question again from the mod list speaks of panty droppers smoke bombs and bugs bunny for tuning yet not tow tunes. So what tuning were you using?
I ask these questions because of all the monitored parameters egts were not discussed and that could definately contribute to the problems. Reguardless of bulletproofing race tunes and towing a cinder block on a lawn tractor trailer can cause some high egts.(slightly exaggerated but it dos et take much)

 

Good catch

 

Oh hell...i left it on Super Panty Dropper because I read somewhere that the truck wont even notice anything back there! Hmm...so that would cause this all to happen? Can someone explain?

Everything made sense until this!

 

How much were you towing?

I wouldn't tow with a race tune, they are a little leaner... you want good fuel to tow, why most claim that tow tunes won't improve mileage and that some are just transmission improvements.

The Gearhead tunes... only carry bed weight if not running a tow tune.

 

On a race tune the truck has alot of timing to create the power which creates heat. Add in the extra weight which the tuner didnt account for and you can run some seriously high egts. High egts heat the engine. Which could have very well cause the issues. Just speculation on my part. I know on a stock truck i once decided to pull a small 18ft Bayliner fish ski boat. The thing might have weighed 6k. On flat ground i could not keep my egts comfortable at all. This was on a hot race tune. Mind you i didnt have the abilities to watch coolant and oil temps. It did make the truck puke doing this. When i went to a tow tune i quit having the issues. If you have a functioning egr cooler it could very well cause the coolant to flash from liquid to gas depending on the temperature and flow rate. As to the fuel system the gelling seems like a probability causing the pump to over amp and blow the fuse. Ive read along with alot of folks that have to have the aftermarket fuel systems and have nothing but headaches out of them. Hanging out in the forums is likely why my main truck has a race tune only and no further mods. It seems once we start leaving the factory design envelope with performamce parts other gremlins start to emerge. Not that i dont want a superduper bulletproof truck that has insane hp but more id like to drive it everyday, tow occasionally and not worry about it. Kinda the reason i look to a new truck if i want more power because then again id be pushing the factory envelope but not as far as i would with my current truck.

 

Wow, I understand. Maybe it was all just my ignorance with the tune. The uhaul itself has some weight but I had only about 600-1000lbs in it. Ahh...you live and learn.

 

Also to note even a light box trailer is like pulling a boat sail because of the lack of aerodynamics. Pulling a cargo trailer even a light one is a workout behind a vehicle.

 

Hey guys...so the winter storm Jonas has me stranded all weekend and as the snow/ice is finally starting to melt, i realized the dealerships are all closed on Sunday. My truck is just sitting at my church parking lot..ahh..

Anyways, any recommendations on where to buy the parts online? I have looked at a few places but shipping seems ridiculous on a lot of the sites mentioned here. I live in NC.

Looking to buy:
1. EBP Sensor
2. EBP sensor pigtail/harness (I will clean the tube myself)
3. Thermostat
4. and Tierod ends (noticed I can move the bar while I was installing the dual steering stabilizers...I don't think that's normal)

I think I read that I should just stick with genuine FORD/Motorcraft parts, as I see a lot of tempting EBAY alternatives.. Can anyone confirm?

I will be using 4 gallons of Rotella ELC with the Restore and Restore Plus from Fleetguard to flush. I will not be flushing right away...I need to get that truck home first, which is 16 mile commute from church. I know it'd be nice to not cycle the old crap into the new T-stat, but I can just pull the T-stat out again and clean it once I do start the flush, right?

I will also be buying Carquest filters for the FASS fuel pump. I haven't read anything too impressive about FASS in general so I hope that will be ok.

Any feedback would be great. Thanks for all of your help!

 

Wow I just read your Thread & will follow to see outcome.
Nice looking truck & don't worry, these guys will help u get her straightened out

Seems as if the preliminary bases are covered already... Get a new EBP for sure, repair your FASS system, as far as T-Stat either a oem or Mishimoto & concerning the Coolant (yes u need to flush it) but I would do that after u get her running again, just in case something has to come apart (no sense in wasting high $ coolant) IMO.

I personally would get it to run again (to make sure Fuel Injectors & Turbo are ok) then after she's purrin like a kitten in the driveway, go ahead Flush it & change T-Stat.

 

Find the oem part number and spend quality time on ebay. Generally you can find it cheaper that the local steerlership for ford parts

 

On the tie rods id stay with oem.
I did however use XRF ball joints on mine. Not sure if they have tie rods bit if so and were cheaper I'd use em.

 

Took thermostat off and that is the 50/50 coolant just sitting there...is that normal? Also, the t-stat looked clean/fine. Doesn't mean it is fine though, right?





There was thick, black fluid in this, very little. Problem?





No idea what this guy goes to...





My poor truck...

I got the EBP sensor off and also took the tube off. Tube was sprayed down with carb cleaner and black fluid flowed a bit. Didnt seem clogged. EBP sensor definitely had coolant pooled up in the connector part. The connector itself seems a daunting task to replace (the harness??) so maybe it is ok?? Wires dont seem damaged.

Thanks so much guys/girls!

 

That is the wrong coolant you have in their just FYI. Also the thick black fluid is oil and that is normal to have in that tube and CAC.

 

Thank you so much for the reply! I know the coolant is not right. I am doing a flush once I get it running!

Is it normal for the coolant to just sit pooled up there?