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I bled the coolant down completely because I did not want the Restore to be sitting in there. I just left the petcock open at bottom of radiator. I did NOT drain the block.
Been asking around Raleigh NC for quotes preparing for the worst and got $6450 for complete head rework. Some of the things in his quote have already been done so it should be in the upper $5,000. Seem fair? Pay now and just enjoy from now on..
Dude mentioned an o-ringed head where they took a Ford head and reworked it so that head gaskets will no longer be an issue. Comes with 2yr warranty.
Originally Posted by Yahiko
Still run the vacuum test step. I found a leak that would not
show with air pressure till it was HOT but showed right away
under vacuum.
When you say all air just how far down is the coolant? You may have
a leaking block drain plug. Look both sides of the block behind the starter
and the driver side just back from the engine mount you will see 2 hex
sockets. They most times are a bright zinc color.
I think it money that can be better spent on other things if you not
trying to push the power.
A proper prep of the head and deck with the correct torque to the bolts or
studs should give you a good long lasting seal. The one thing that can kill
all of that work is using a cheap part like a head gasket that is substandard.
So my question. Have you had a repeat occurance of the issues? It sounds like your fearing the worst and about to unload a bunch of unnecessary cash on a problem that may not be actual. Gelling fuel and a race tune while pulling a trailer could likely be the only issues. Before i dropped 5 grand id make dang sure i had a problem.
So my question. Have you had a repeat occurance of the issues? It sounds like your fearing the worst and about to unload a bunch of unnecessary cash on a problem that may not be actual. Gelling fuel and a race tune while pulling a trailer could likely be the only issues. Before i dropped 5 grand id make dang sure i had a problem.
Yes, I have had repeat occurrences now. And the large EOT/ECT difference kinda threw a red flag. Also, I puked coolant driving 30 minutes while flushing the cooling system. There is just massive pressure being built up in the cooling system. I took it to a shop yesterday to get diagnostics done. I am NOT doing the o-ring heads. Read too many posts about it not having true benefits for my application.
We are currently looking at $3200 range because I already have a tuner, EGR Delete, etc. I will be adding a coolant filter (no labor charge) and some front end work (loose steering feel).
I am awaiting the final diagnostic/estimate call, and a bit nervous that the head cannot be machined and will need to be replaced or something like that. I am paranoid right now, but I have a basic background on the 6.0 thanks to FTE forum and will be able to shoot down any obvious BS...hopefully.
I took the truck to Global Offroad an Diesel shop in Raleigh, NC (North Carolina). I will post up a review of the shop once I get the call back. So far, not the best guys to talk to on the phone, Jerry's a good guy in person, and...their shop looks nice from the outside, but has no signage haha
Are they a diesel shop or a powerstroke shop? I am a firm believer that powerstrokes at least the heui trucks take some one with more experience in them specifically. Also some one with ford diagnostic equipment and training helps to prevent shot gun repair tactics and parts throwing. Not that your shop is doing just a observation from reading over the years
Are they a diesel shop or a powerstroke shop? I am a firm believer that powerstrokes at least the heui trucks take some one with more experience in them specifically. Also some one with ford diagnostic equipment and training helps to prevent shot gun repair tactics and parts throwing. Not that your shop is doing just a observation from reading over the years
Apparently My injectors are falling out under load. What the hell does that mean?? No DTC though... Cost is goin up...
Yikes that sucks are they well versed in powerstrokes?
They had a shout-out on FTE so thats why I went. Im gettin all injectors replaced (i felt misfire as well. Injectors were probably shot when fuel pump fuse popped and I was not aware as I tried to start it on that dreaded mountain) and also front end 4 ball joints replaced. $6200...for now as long as nuttin crazy happens...
Thinkin positive !! I will get to start fresh and really see if the 6.0 is good with proper maintenance.
Just an FYI, I had the head gaskets all changed out, the truck already had studs but they were not installed properly. Apparently they were installed with the indicator washers instead of torquing to the specs for the studs. Anyways, I replaced all 8 injectors and ofcourse got a new oil cooler installed.
I also had all 4 ball joints replaced at the same time (might as well fix it all at once...).
The total price was $6,300. I know a lot of people want to know what it costs to fix our 6.0s. The injectors were $260/per. The ball joints were $900 total.
The truck is running great! Smooth idle, and it starts so well. I have a FASS 220gph fuel pump (way overkill...the previous owner bought it) and I have started to let it completed prime and shut off before I start the truck. Is this necessary? I feel like it takes a good minute.
However, having a whine noise that seems louder now than before. I can't tell what this is coming from, but I have read that it may by normal? Follows RPM. Power steering fluid is in safe zone.
Also, the freaking EGTE is not even an option on my EDGE CTS now. No idea why... new probe needed? I was installing subwoofer wiring and then I noticed "..." on my egt guage. I do not think the EGT is very crucial at this point, just driving highway empty with 4" straight pipe and no egr. I am not panicking about this, but just curious how to troubleshoot.
***
EDIT.
Venting...so the previous own had tinted the freaking odometer display area and was hard to read the numbers the whole time. Finally got tired of it and scratched it off. I had been misreading the mileage and it shows 188,000 as I thought it did originally... So I called PSE (Powerstroke Enginuities) and asked about warranty work and they said they will not warranty it due to it being a high HP build and also changing ownership. This truck blew up less than 10k into what is an essentially rebuilt engine.
I'm kind of discouraged, but I feel like I got the truck fixed properly this time and am hoping for 300,000 problem free, maintenance babied miles.
Last edited by skchoi2; Feb 23, 2016 at 03:04 AM.
Reason: typo and extra rant...
Also if you have issues the head and block can be unusable.
I am NOT pushing anyone to get o-ringed heads. And I agree that they are overkill for a normal power level truck. But, can you explain how they would render the block useless? There is a big difference between O-rings and fire rings!
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