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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Body mounts completely gone!

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Old May 6, 2016 | 11:47 AM
  #61  
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wilfreeman
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I just did mine yesterday. It has 145,000 miles - factory foam ones were destroyed! I used the Daystar black poly ones. I did the job by myself - bad decision! Took me 6hrs. The only tools I used were a jack & 4x4, impact wrench w/15mm socket and breaker bar w/22mm socket, vise grips for holding radiator mount nut, long punch and hammer for driving out lower mount, long flat screwdriver for bending the tabs for the captured nuts, 5/16" socket for removing various things to get to the radiator mount nuts.

Needless to say, the radiator mounts were the worst. The locktite they use on the bolts is a bitch if you don't use a good impact. You don't need a puller for them - just get the captured nuts out of the way inside the cab (you have to remove the rear seat BACK only, and move the carpet front and rear which requires removing some plastics bits). Once the bolts are out (remove ONLY one side at a time so your body doesn't shift!), use the punch to drive the lower mount down and out. Jack it up and remove the upper mount. GREASE the new POLY ones on every contact surface with wheel bearing grease and install. Ease the body back down on the upper mounts. Install lower mounts - use a hammer to tap them up snug (one or two taps will get it there). Install bolts snug (might wants to clean the loctight off them to make it easier). Do the other side. After all are done, torque them all to 80#ft (I just read this figure somewhere on here and it seemed like a good figure for that size bolt).
 

Last edited by wilfreeman; May 6, 2016 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Added mileage
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Old May 6, 2016 | 01:33 PM
  #62  
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Dr.Huxtable
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From: Spartanburg, SC
Thanks for the info Matt, I still have yet to do this. About to do a full coolant flush, then this is next on my list!
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 02:14 PM
  #63  
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wilfreeman
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No problem. I hope you can use some of these tips(I don't know if the 2005 and 2008 models use the same mounts). Maybe you can have someone to hold the nuts inside the cab while you are under the truck - this would have made it a MUCH easier job. PLUS, I don't have a powerful impact, so I had to use my breaker bar to loosen the bolts because the Loctite made it impossible to turn them with a ratchet until they were almost out. A torch might have helped too - maybe that would break down the blue Loctite? Mine wouldn't stay lit, so I couldn't try that. You can get to all of the inside cab nuts to use the punch idea - this doesn't mess up the lower mount. You can also get to the radiator core mounts if you move some things out of the way. Good luck - I would hate to see how much a dealer or even a shop would charge to do this job!

BTW, even with using the BLACK poly bushings, the ride of my truck is NOW excellent with NO noise! Before, it was a pretty harsh ride with lots of noises. Just make sure you grease those bushings up real good. I put a pretty good layer on all of the metal surfaces that the bushings touched.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 03:39 PM
  #64  
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Dr.Huxtable
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From: Spartanburg, SC
I finally changed them! After further inspection I decided to replace them all. The OEM ones I had cost me alittle over $250. They were just the fronts, rears and hardware. I went with the daystar kit which replaces ALL 8, cost $145. No hardware but the original parts were in fine condition to reuse.

A few notes on the job:
1) The whole job took me about 5 hours. It really wasn't that bad
2) Do yourself a favor and remove the front bumper. Makes it so much easier and it takes literally 5 min to do
3) You will need to completely remove the rear seat from the truck
4) As mentioned the ones in the very front by the radiator are the worst. I cut the rubber off this bushing and used a huge pair of channel locks on it while my father in law hit the bolt with a impact gun. Unfortunately in my case the passenger side would not come loose. I have to cut it off and replace the hardware as well. Just ordered the parts today.
5) For the others, I didn't make or use any type of puller or tool. I screwed the bolt in a few turns and tapped it on the top with sledge. My truck has almost 0 rust so this my not work for others.

The majority of guys give the daystar kit excellent reviews. I haven't ridden in the truck yet since I installed them but I will report back. Now for the pics....... I'm pretty sure ANYTHING will be an improvement over these......

If you have any questions or need more details feel free to ask.








These are from behind the rear seat




These are the ones by your feet





These are the centers


 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 07:59 PM
  #65  
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Pete_H
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From: Palm Harbor , Florida
just did my rear pair a few months ago with a urethane kit. Fronts looked ok and I didn't feel like pulling the bumper. I'll save that for my retirement project list.
Worst part was aligning the cab afterword, twice, but the results were excellent.

f250 Screw.
 
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