This tuck is possessed. I'm getting ready to go to sleep and I hear a horn going off. I go outside and the horn is stuck again. I pulled the fuse and I'm done for the night.

I'm starting to think the airbag/switch may be the culprit?

 

Did you try slapping the front of the airbag to see if that jared the switch loose and
stopped the horn from waking everyone?

I picked up an injector today. Did not want to wait on White Bear and UPS.
One dealer wanted $260 and I told them where they could go. The place I
got the truck from (Ford dealer) let me have it for $15 over the price at White Bear.

Not too bad.

 

Nah, it was going off and I just pulled the fuse, initial reaction.

 

That would be my response too, and a lot of others. Just STFU damn horn!!
You can tinker with it, or have it looked at by a pro.

 

I hope I am sending this in the right place and some of you have a more concrete answer today a few year after.


I have been looking everywhere for this ghost horn wake up in the middle of the night. I am the original owner of a 2003 eddie bauer expedition 5.4.. I bought this when the mother of my first daughter was pregnant. I kept this SUV in great condition and the idea of this becoming my daughter's first vehicle is now a reality. The thing looks and drives like new. Any father would go through the vehicle and make sure all is safe and working perfect. Seems like I am finding a few issues or created issues looking at all safety features. This gremlin horn started on me a while back. first thing i did is disconnect the train horn. still with the regular horn the embarrassment was pretty good at 3 am and not the alarm going in and out. just a full blasting horn. Eventually this started blowing fuses right away. I have this down to the baffle between the air bag and the fabrick. I read one of you tested this piece with ohms. I hope I could get the exact method you used to disqualify with the ohms test.. I had the steering column pulling in and out also about 1/4 inch. Digging deeper I am now replacing the upper bearing. I thought for sure that was a type of spring back and I figured out the horn issue until I took this thing apart. Clock spring works fine with all steering functions. it looks fine. If I don't destroy this steering column getting this bearing out. the steering actually collapsed just pushing on it trying to pull out this bearing. All ball bearings are gone and just the metal pieces are there all torn up but not coming out too easy. I'm waiting on a new bearing now and read through this bladder talk. i am just about convinced it is this bladder that seems way to easy to be bad. There is like nothing there. This post has been running 10 years but i did notice some recent communications. I could buy a used assembly but how do I prove that bladder to be the issue or even worst end up getting someone's bad bladder but good air bag. That is the assembly they sell .Probably for this same exact problem.I fall back on the ohms test . If someone could tell me how they tested their bladder through ohms meter I sure would appreciate. I live in the moisture south florida and I am afraid that my 2006 F-450 which has a very much louder horn end up with the same exact gremlins if i cannot figure this out.. I did read another item that sounds like It could have been a problem. The center emblem on this vehicle was a piece tin. this piece on mine was kinked and the blue peeling off. it wasn't until I read someone mention this that I realized mine was kinked and very much attached to this steering wheel. This thing had tabs at the top and bottom bent inwards to make sure it will take some work to get out. It is not being replaced without taking that whole assembly apart. If i knew how to test this bladder or pressure switch could I have solved the issue by removing this kinked center piece. I am not one to be aggressive and beating up my steering wheel but I did hit my horn petty hard to try and get it to stop. So here is the mystery. was it there before or did I create this kink and wasting my time. I sure hope I can get some answers on this mystery.

I know some of you guys on here can answer the wildest problems. i am hoping after this 10 year post there is some concrete answer by now. No one else in my research has even come close to what this post has talked about or even showed the mystery bladder or pressure switch. I must have 3 times the book value of this vehicle just in making it safe all around. every switch even the AC actuator issue is fixed I am down to this issue and some rust work on the roof as they all have. Help out a brother please. last thing I need is my 16 year old extremely beautiful daughter to be stuck with a running train horn looking like a deer in headlights at the wrong place wrong time.

 

Be very careful. If you put the meter on the air bag connector and not on the switch you will get air bag in the face.
A meter uses enough power to test resistance and it's us enough to set the bag off.

 

I haven't updated in a while in regards to my outcome. What I wound up doing was trying to reposition the horn switch a few times, same thing, intermittent sticking, etc. I didn't want to buy an OEM switch because they're over $300, but I wanted my horn.

I bought a fuse tap and wired in an inline fuse and push button switch. When I need to use the horn, I push the switch, sometimes the horn is active, most times it's not, go figure the horn switch is working normally. Regardless though, I don't have to worry about the horn just going off by itself anymore. The push button switch acts as an on button, then I just use my horn like normal. I might wire up a toggle switch soon so that I don't have to push the button when I want to use my horn. A toggle switch would be like pulling the fuse, which isn't so easy while you're driving. Seems like the horn switch only sticks once in a while, but I won't just leave the normal fuse in, because that once in a while stick is usually in the middle of the night, etc.

 

A replacement switch is available. Dorman part 924904

 

The one currently in my truck is a Dorman switch from a few years ago. If I was going to buy another switch, I'd buy OEM at this point, but my backyard mechanic fix is working fine and cost me nearly nothing.

 

I saw that item and also saw the price for an unconfirmed issue. I just saw someone selling a whole steering wheel and tilt column for $125 on Ebay. I'm also having top bearing issues. This steering column wheel etc looked really clean and He says plug and play so I hope they didn't tear it out . It's worth looking at this for the price. Mine is a 2003 and this is a 2005. I am pretty sure they are identical.
Thanks for your input