Ok I have the PDFs ready.
You also want to print the PDFs from my post and that is post #2
along with this set. It has all the info that you should need. Read it over
and ask questions first if you have any that way you don't have a truck
sitting waiting for an answer if we can help it.

I think this has you covered. But like I said ask questions.


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Well, if the cover is not holding it's shape, that's prolly the problem and not the clock spring. Just like on my truck. But check things out first before you go buying parts. And if your cover is deformed as you say, it's time for a complete airbag assembly. B.

 

With the diagrams and Pinpoint testing steps you should be able to remove the
airbag and then re-power the horn circuit. No honk and I would also think switch.

Be careful about where you get an airbag. Some jokers will repack blown ones
and stuff a resistor in place of the igniter to fool the computer. This is one part
I would never buy at a yard. That steering wheel HURTS like hell at 55 to 0 MPH.
That accident predates airbags in trucks. But you would get the same thing with
a faked airbag.

If that turns out to be the problem give Ed a call and let him price one for you first.

BUT we need to make sure that is the problem.

You said one thing that still points to the clock spring and that is the cruse control
not working. Do you have any other controls on the wheel? Are they also not working?

There is an easy way to test the switches if you have access to a true scan tool. Most of
the parts stores won't be able to test the switches like you can with a Snap On, Mac,Maco
or a Ford IDS. There are some other scan tools that will do the job out there like
https://www.autoenginuity.com with the Ford bundle I think should be able to check it.
Not sure about the bluetooth dongles. It really depends on the software mostly.




Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks to both of you guys for the information.

Yahiko mentioned the cruise control not working and pointing to the clock spring. The cruise control is the only thing on the steering wheel, left side has on and off, the right side has the other features for the cruise control.

Thanks for the pdf's as well. I think it may be a little more than I'm able to handle by reading through them. I might have my mechanic do some of the diagnostic testing so the right part is replaced correctly.

I reached out to Ed from his site, didn't hear back yet.

What is the approximate price for an oem clock spring?

What is the approximate price for an oem airbag/switch?

Also curious what the shop time is to replace each of those?

This way I know what I'm up against when I go to the mechanic. It was really weird driving today without a horn. You forget very quickly how useful and often it gets used.

One last thing, the only thing not holding it's shape is the Ford emblem, it's depressed a bit. But it's been like that for years, everything else on the cover is in great shape. So maybe it is just the clock spring?

 

You can look it up here >>> AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories
It will get you close to Ed's price. Also sometimes it may take a little bit to
get back to people being the first real business day of the new year. You
can also call the number for the White Bear Lake and talk to them directly.
They will need a VIN number to get the correct part number and price.

Give me a yell if you need anything.




Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks, I'll take a look.

How about shop time for each repair?

 

I guess it's too late in your life, to suggest self control and more use of the brakes, than the horn.

 

You live in Oregon, I live in New Jersey, you just wouldn't understand, LOL!

I also drive through urban areas where people are more concerned with their cell phone and everything else but driving. A horn is a necessity.

 

Very Well said! LOL

 

Regardless of where you live, it takes less time to react by avoiding than it does to honk and then avoid.

 

Thank you, I see Chicago, you understand. (Panheads rule)

It's not about avoiding, it's about morons on their phones while the light is green, people drifting into your lane, trying to pass on the right, and on, and on, etc.

 

Sorry I don't have that info. Would be a nice book to add to my list.

Don't forget the morons on bikes that ignore the traffic signs and rules. Or the moped on the sidewalk
forcing the pedestrians to jump into the road so they don't get ran over. You just have to honk at them.




Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks Yahiko, you're spot on.


Anyone else know the shop time required to change the:

clock spring?

airbag?

Trying to gage the cost of the repair as I think I'm going to have my mechanic take a look. I don't mind trying to repair things, but feel this is over my head. At least I know my limitations.

It does appear to be the clock spring because of the cruise control not working. Is that a safe assumption for now?

Thanks again everybody.

 

Grr.
Stupid browser crash.

Time wish for the airbag I don't see that being much other than they will
most likely want to run a full diag on it just to cover there butts.

The clock spring would be more do to the 3 screws and 3 bolts that have to
come out to remove it. 2 of the 3 bolts have to come out to remove the airbag.

Here is a photo of the clock spring assembly.


The one yellow jacked wire is the airbag and the one to avoid with a meter so
long as it is hooked to the truck or the airbag. Once you go down the column it
is not covered with a yellow jacket but is still 2 wires by them selves.

If you remove the airbag and then go down the column and remove the smaller
2 wire for the airbag and then the larger connector for the horn and switches you
can then safely test for shorted or open wires.


I looked to see if there was a Youtube on how to do he clock spring. This is close to
what you have todo. He did a few things and said a few others that are not correct.
Use the bolt as the pivot for the puller and the new bolt comes with thread locker
already on it. The little plastic spider spacer it for the turn signal cancel on turn
and not for the airbag.




Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks for the video and information. I'm starting to feel a bit more confident. Let's see if we can get my confidence up a bit more, few more questions:

1) Because I have no cruise control and the horn issue, does that lead us to believe it's the clock spring?

2) In regards to the airbag assembly, as long as I disconnect the battery and wait a little while, I should not have any worries about it deploying, correct? I watched that video and saw the two connections, disconnect, and move out of the way. That seems fairly straightforward.

3) LindenBruce brought up a good point in post #10 about removing the airbag assembly and then plugging in the horn fuse. Would it be safe to assume that if the horn was still stuck that yes, the clock spring needs to be changed? The other thing I see as not being able to rely on this is that the horn switch is now disconnected. If the horn was not activated, then it would not test correctly. I mention that because when I had the fuse in I was able to tap the horn and get it to stop. Guess I could put the fuse back in before the airbag removal and get the horn to stick again? I'm not that confident to start checking electrical connections because I'm a little confused on exactly what to check, plus I only have a basic voltmeter.

After seeing that video it seems like a little bit of work, patience, and an afternoon with my truck. The one thing not seen in the video is where the connectors for the clock spring plug in. I'm assuming that the follow down the steering column and connect into the plug end, is there any removing of cable ties to get the original one out?