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That plan may work. Once the airbag is out try the horn fuse.
But before you pull the airbag make sure that the horn is still
sounding when you put the fuse in.
About doing >>> Airbag removal just do what it says in the PDF I posted about 501-20B-1 Deactivation and Reactivation
You should have no problem putting the horn fuse back in and see if you have a sounding horn.
That will not be 100% yes or no test unless it is still sounding. By moving the wheel you could
of temporally clear the short.
I found this Youtube that shows what is in a clockspring. Not a lot to them.
thank you all, I'm having a very similar problem. Last night at about 4 o'clock in the morning, my horn started going off by itself. It took a few minutes for me to go outside and pull the fuse out to get the horn to shut up, (because I couldn't find the actual horn). I'm sure all of my neighbors were thrilled about that. Now, if I put the fuse back in the horn is still going off, but with the fuse pulled out the cruise control doesn't work. I read through all the stuff that you guys have been posting on here today, and I looked at some of those PDFs. An hour ago I thought it was going to be a relay, but the clock spring is sounding like a much better diagnosis. And honestly I'd be fine without the horn but, averaging a thousand miles a week for work, I need my cruise control, lol.
Maintenance Mike
04' F-350 S.D.
Thanks Sean, I'm going to watch the video again this weekend and review those pdf's again. If my dealer has the part in stock, I might tackle it next weekend. Gonna call the dealer today as well.
It's funny Mike, I need my horn and not my cruise control. I think I've used my cruise control about a handful of times over he years, but the horn, that baby gets used a lot, LOL.
I've had my truck for about two years and Wednesday morning was the first time I have even heard my horn. But on average I use the cruise control about 4 hours or more per day.
That plan may work. Once the airbag is out try the horn fuse.
But before you pull the airbag make sure that the horn is still
sounding when you put the fuse in.
I was just thinking about something, if I pull the airbag out, then wanted to test the clockspring by putting the horn fuse back in, I would have to hook up the battery. Being that the airbag wasn't in, would there be an issue? If not, any concern when putting the airbag back in later? The battery would be disconnected again, but not sure if connecting it after removal and then disconnecting it would be of concern?
Does anyone know the Ford part number for a clockspring for my 2003 Ford F250, 4x4, 5.4L, cruise control. I called my local dealer, $179.00, in stock, but a different part number that what I saw on the White Bear Lake website. The part number on the White Bear site is 1L3Z14A664AA with a price of $126.47. I called FICM and no answer, so I sent an email to his email address, not from his site.
There will not be any issue with putting the batteries back in
and the fuse. You may see a light for an airbag fault with the
airbag out is all. and all you have to di is disable it before putting
the airbag back in. That should also clear any fault lights.
Use the part number that you got from your dealer and see
what the White Bear Lake says the cost is.
You just put the part number in the search line and if they have the item
with an updated part number they should be able to give you a price for it.
I was on the phone with the people at FICMrepair a while ago. I take it that
you were able to talk to Scott and he got the pricing started for you?
There will not be any issue with putting the batteries back in
and the fuse. You may see a light for an airbag fault with the
airbag out is all. and all you have to di is disable it before putting
the airbag back in. That should also clear any fault lights.
Use the part number that you got from your dealer and see
what the White Bear Lake says the cost is.
You just put the part number in the search line and if they have the item
with an updated part number they should be able to give you a price for it.
I was on the phone with the people at FICMrepair a while ago. I take it that
you were able to talk to Scott and he got the pricing started for you?
Ok, good about the horn check, if I proceed with the repair on my own, still undecided.
The problem with my dealer is that they did not give me the part number. They said it was not the same as the one I found on the White Bear site.
And yes, I did talk to Scott today. He's going to get back to me on Monday, I gave him my vin, so we'll see what part number he comes back with. My only concern with ordering online is that I'd like to have the part for Saturday as I have time to do the repair. But if I did that "diagnostic" of putting the fuse back in and the horn had stopped, then it would lead me to believe it's the airbag/switch assembly. If I buy locally and don't use the clockspring, I can then return it. If i buy online, it's more of a hassle. The dealer locally has it in stock, but priced much higher than White Bear.
On electrical parts once you open the box it yours.
If the box is unopened I think you can send it back
without any problems. (You need to ask on that)
Also after you get the airbag out I would along with
the horn check the switches for the cruse control.
You do have a mulitmeter? I can walk you through the
steps if that will help. I can PM you my phone number and
we can do a phone call on the steps.
On electrical parts once you open the box it yours.
If the box is unopened I think you can send it back
without any problems. (You need to ask on that)
Also after you get the airbag out I would along with
the horn check the switches for the cruse control.
You do have a mulitmeter? I can walk you through the
steps if that will help. I can PM you my phone number and
we can do a phone call on the steps.
I don't care if my cruise control works, but thank you for willing to help with a walk through over the phone, I really appreciate that. Would there be any other reason to check the cruise control while the airbag is out?
All 3 are on the same ribbon and if the horn and cruse control
lines have failed the airbag may not be far behind and you don't
want that going out at a bad time if you know what I mean.
Also all the circuits can be checked with the airbag out and the
other ends unhooked with a simple multimeter.
What I would check for because you have a horn that honks and a cruse
control that does not work. I would look for shorts first (horn) and opens
next (crush control). It's really easy to do.
If you are out buying a Multimeter get one that has continuity test with beep.
That way your not having to keep an eye on the meter while wiggling things.
Ok, good about the horn check, if I proceed with the repair on my own, still undecided.
The problem with my dealer is that they did not give me the part number. They said it was not the same as the one I found on the White Bear site.
And yes, I did talk to Scott today. He's going to get back to me on Monday, I gave him my vin, so we'll see what part number he comes back with. My only concern with ordering online is that I'd like to have the part for Saturday as I have time to do the repair. But if I did that "diagnostic" of putting the fuse back in and the horn had stopped, then it would lead me to believe it's the airbag/switch assembly. If I buy locally and don't use the clockspring, I can then return it. If i buy online, it's more of a hassle. The dealer locally has it in stock, but priced much higher than White Bear.
Hi CNC - I am so very sorry for not getting back to you more timely. Between the long weekend from New Years and the fact that we are training new staff that started on the day you first reached out to us, we have been just pummeled! (For those that don't know, Kelsey is no longer with the company - she's moved on to [hopefully for her!] greener pastures)
We should have the correct part # for you on Monday along with a price. Sean is correct on how returns work on electrical parts, though. Sadly, once you open the package it's yours. No one wants to get a potentially used part back. It's a bummer, I totally get that. I agree with the others on here, though - your issues sure SOUND like the clock spring.
Once the airbag is out of the way and the lower connections are unplugged
I would have you check each wire to the others for shorts. I would then check
each wire to the other connector for continuity while turning and wiggling things.
Do the turn and wiggle last so any interment shorts are more likely to show up.
