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I have a 2003 Ford F250, 4x4, 5.4L, with 130,000 miles. The truck has been well maintained and is in great shape.
The truck sat between the holidays and I went out today and noticed that my horn did not work. I noticed that the cruise control did not work either. Figuring it was a fuse I went to the auto parts store and replaced the fuse. The horn worked, but it seemed like one of them was out. The cruise control is still not working, but at least I have my horn, well maybe.
A few hours later I hear a horn blowing outside and it's mine. I removed the fuse and it stopped. I reconnected the fuse and noticed that the horn is stuck, however if I tap the horn it will stop, but if I hit it again, it gets stuck.
For now I've removed the fuse, but does fully stop the power loss? I did a little reading and found that the clock spring inside the wheel may be bad? I also read that there is no horn relay and that's why I'm asking about power and if my battery is being drained even though I've removed the fuse and stopped the horn?
Time to replace the clock spring I would have to say. But
to be sure you should test the circuit and DON'T put the meter
probes on the one for the air bad it can and most likely will
go BOOM in your face. Your far better off to remove it while testing.
Have a look at these 4 PDFs. Read it all first. You are responsible for
you safety and well being.
In regards to the clock spring, on a scale of 1 to 10, where would it fall for someone who is not a mechanic?
Looking at the first pdf, it appears to me that by disconnecting the fuse would eliminate any power to the horn relay? Meaning that I should be fine and would not be draining my battery? I don't know when I'll get to this and wanted to make sure that just removing the fuse will stop the circuit.
It's an easy changeout. You will need only a few tools.
You also need a new clock spring along with a new steering wheel bolt.
I really think you can reuse the old bolt but you know how it goes.
Tools that you will need. Torque wrench, medium gear puller and a torx
bit for the wheel bolt.
Later tonight I will post the PDF that has the steps you need to take.
The only really danger point is the air bag. Think of it as a bomb.
AFTER ALL IT IS A BOMB.
It's an easy changeout. You will need only a few tools.
You also need a new clock spring along with a new steering wheel bolt.
I really think you can reuse the old bolt but you know how it goes.
Tools that you will need. Torque wrench, medium gear puller and a torx
bit for the wheel bolt.
Later tonight I will post the PDF that has the steps you need to take.
The only really danger point is the air bag. Think of it as a bomb.
AFTER ALL IT IS A BOMB.
Ok good, at least for now I'm not draining the battery. I checked the battery today and it's at 12.2.
Thank you for the pdf's, I'll look at them after you post them. Maybe I'll tackle the job, any idea of how long it takes? You're scaring me with the air bag, but I guess as long as you remove the battery and let it sit, should be fine?
Where can I find the Motorcraft part numbers for the clock spring and the steering wheel bolt?
It could also be the switch just behind the steering wheel cover over the airbag. That's what happened to me. My horn started sounding on a hot day and would not stop. The cover over the airbag was fragile and had failed to hold it's shape. I ended up buying an airbag assembly to fix the problem. B.
It could also be the switch just behind the steering wheel cover over the airbag. That's what happened to me. My horn started sounding on a hot day and would not stop. The cover over the airbag was fragile and had failed to hold it's shape. I ended up buying an airbag assembly to fix the problem. B.
My horn cover is pushed in a bit from years of use.
Anybody have a diagram of what's under the cover? I know the airbag is in there, but not sure what the switch looks like.
Is there any way to test the switch vs. the clock spring? I would imagine that the switch is easier to change and wouldn't require removal of the steering wheel?
This is the pressure bad right behind the blue Ford oval in the center of your steering wheel. I tried to find one for purchase and not successful. It is easier to replace the airbag then the clock spring. Just two small bolts on the back side of the steering wheel and a wire connector. But, you will either have to find a used airbag assembly or buy new. And new is not cheap. B.
I would NOT be applying a volt meter to ANY electrical connectors on the back side of this assembly to test the switch. If you get the wrong connector you could activate the airbag right in your face. NOT good!!!!
BUT, you can pull this assembly from the steering wheel, put your fuse back in, and see if the horn sounds. If it does still sound then you have a clock spring issue. If not, you know it's the pad in the airbag assembly.
There is a repair procedure on the net for fixing the pressure pad. BUT, it involves toothpicks and silicone. I don't know about you, but I don't want miniature wood stakes flying into my face if the airbag were to go off in an accident. So I will NOT post a link to that fix. That is on you if you go out and find it and do that repair. B.
Last edited by LindenBruce; Jan 3, 2016 at 09:23 PM.
Reason: typo
Yes. It is sandwiched between the airbag AND the outer cover with the blue oval. I don't believe the switch is available separately from the air bag. As that would mean people would be working on air bags and who knows if they would do it correctly. Liability and all you know. B.
You'd think the switch (#2) would be available separately, it's not part of the airbag? Anybody know if the switch is available separate of the airbag?
My outer cover is depressed, where the blue oval ford emblem is located. My horn has seen a lot of action over the years, lol.
LindenBruce is right about the meter and setting off
the airbag. That also goes for the seatbelt pretensioners
aka: The buckle. They go BANG too. Not as bad as an airbag
but still enough that your not ready for it you may need a
fresh set of shorts.
Now that I am back home I can get to pulling the PDFs out for you.
